ebinmaine 63,348 #101 Posted January 21, 2020 1 minute ago, Oldskool said: Hope I'm not wearing out my welcome with all the piddly questions There's absolutely no such thing as that so please keep asking To the best of my knowledge, lead additive is not necessary in any Wheelhorse engine but I would love to hear corrections if anybody knows different. There's been many discussions on oil types and brands. General consensus seems to be straight 30 WITH detergent per Kohler manual. Not sure about the brand. Others can help there. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,258 #102 Posted January 21, 2020 @Oldskool I wanted to correct my memory when talking about your stepfather. Suds was not his nickname...that belonged to another civilian employee named Sunderledge. I also managed to find a couple of pictures of the group that went out on John's boat for Cod fish. That is Butch Brisina in the red shirt. He and John became good friends back then. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #103 Posted January 21, 2020 @stevasaurus I thought the nickname didn't sound familiar. Thanks for posting the pics. Looks like it could be the Milbridge bay area in the background. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #104 Posted January 21, 2020 I have done some looking on here and then on the tractor. It seems to me there isn't a date code on the transmission. So how do you tell when it was made? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,970 #105 Posted January 21, 2020 Early model RJ-58s did not have cast codes on the trans. It would be on the top near the shifter. Very early production had round rear hubs with 3 lug holes instead of the typical 3 hole with ear hubs. Very very early also used a leather shift boot instead of the rubber ones 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #106 Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) 40 minutes ago, wallfish said: Early model RJ-58s did not have cast codes on the trans. It would be on the top near the shifter. Very early production had round rear hubs with 3 lug holes instead of the typical 3 hole with ear hubs. Very very early also used a leather shift boot instead of the rubber ones I looked by the shifter and no casting numbers there. The I.D. tag has 1757 stamped on it but that is all I can read Edited January 21, 2020 by Oldskool Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,970 #107 Posted January 21, 2020 Considering there were about 20,000 made, I'd say you have an earlier production since 1757 is the serial # and therefore no cast #. I have no idea when the cast numbers started. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #108 Posted January 22, 2020 Had some spare time before supper so I thought I would make a hitch for the tractor. What good is a tractor without a hitch right? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #109 Posted January 22, 2020 I was lucky enough to find a vintage trailer ball and it was 1 7/8. Matches all our trailer couplers 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #111 Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) Painted with VHT wrinkle paint. I have had good luck with it not wearing off as easy Edited January 22, 2020 by Oldskool 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,348 #112 Posted January 23, 2020 Nice work there mr skool Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,970 #113 Posted January 23, 2020 Does that tractor have a belt guard for the drive belt? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #114 Posted January 23, 2020 14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Nice work there mr skool Thank you.@ebinmaine 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #115 Posted January 23, 2020 @wallfish Yes it does have a belt guard 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,970 #116 Posted January 23, 2020 30 minutes ago, Oldskool said: @wallfish Yes it does have a belt guard I just went back and looked at the pics. Duh Only asked because I have a pattern you could use to make one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #117 Posted January 23, 2020 Thanks for the offer @wallfish. Looks like those fenders are coming home this weekend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #118 Posted January 24, 2020 Home early today. I was thinking I might pull the steering wheel off for some repairs. Ya that isn't coming off without a fight. I have it braced off. I drilled all the rust out from inside the roll pin. Sprayed PB Blaster inside the pin. I made a small extension to go over my roll pin punch to get out beyond the outside of the wheel to make it easier to hit. Any tips/shortcuts? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,348 #119 Posted January 24, 2020 I'll let the other guys help out with advice to remove it. I've not tackled a steering wheel yet. they are certainly well known to be the bane of existence of a horse owner in the same manner as a hub. Lots of us have our favorite brews for penetrating oil. My favorite is probably the old school inexpensive liquid wrench penetrating oil. Like $6 a can and works pretty well. Not so favorite would be PB blaster. I just really haven't had any luck with that stuff at all and it smells worse than I look. Patience. That is a key element. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #120 Posted January 24, 2020 @ebinmaine my hubs just slid rite off so wouldn't ya know it, the steering wheel will be the worst. I'm a big fan of WD-40 myself but I ran out. Sometimes patience isn't my best friend lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,348 #121 Posted January 24, 2020 19 minutes ago, Oldskool said: WD-40 Find the one that reads WD 40 Penetrant Or Penetrating That stuff's excellent.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,970 #122 Posted January 25, 2020 Found the box. If this doesn't work, I can just send you the box and you can send it back. The measurements were taken from the inside so it can be laid out on the flat piece and marked for bending. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,241 #125 Posted January 25, 2020 15 hours ago, Oldskool said: Home early today. I was thinking I might pull the steering wheel off for some repairs. Ya that isn't coming off without a fight. I have it braced off. I drilled all the rust out from inside the roll pin. Sprayed PB Blaster inside the pin. I made a small extension to go over my roll pin punch to get out beyond the outside of the wheel to make it easier to hit. Any tips/shortcuts? I ended up drilling mine out. Small bit to larger....patient, repetitive, two broken bits... then success... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
