carlosking450 149 #1 Posted August 27, 2019 Hello from Spain friends, a while ago I stopped the project of my Wheel horse 702, I think it does not load the generator, I would like to know where to measure voltage and what voltage to give. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,332 #2 Posted August 27, 2019 I'm not the electrical expert but there is serval here on this site that is So.... to the best tractor site in the WORLD!!!! !!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #3 Posted August 27, 2019 Quiet I will wait for an answer, but I agree with you this is a great forum you always help even being a foreigner I am very grateful I wish I could help you like you to me 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #4 Posted August 27, 2019 (edited) Fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts. With engine running should be between 13.5 and about 14.5. If voltage while running is the same as off then do this quick test. Take a small wire hook one end to a good ground and the other touch to the F (field) terminal on the generator. You may hear the engine slow a bit and the voltage should go up to about 14. If it does your problem is in the voltage regulator. if there is no improvement then the problem is most likely with in the generator itself (Charging field coil) La batería completamente cargada debe ser de 12,6 voltios. Con el motor en marcha debe estar entre 13.5 y aproximadamente 14.5. Si el voltaje durante el funcionamiento es el mismo que apagado, haga esta prueba rápida. Tome un pequeño gancho de alambre de un extremo a una buena tierra y el otro toque al terminal F (campo) en el generador. Es posible que escuche que el motor se desacelera un poco y el voltaje debería subir a aproximadamente 14. Si lo hace, su problema está en el regulador de voltaje. si no hay mejora, entonces el problema es más probable con el generador en sí (bobina de campo de carga) Edited August 27, 2019 by pfrederi 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #5 Posted September 3, 2019 hello good someone can tell me, what cables of the electrical system of the Wheel Horse 702, you have to put them fat? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #6 Posted September 3, 2019 44 minutes ago, carlosking450 said: hello good someone can tell me, what cables of the electrical system of the Wheel Horse 702, you have to put them fat? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #7 Posted September 4, 2019 hello good someone can tell me, what cables of the electrical system of the Wheel Horse 702, you have to put them fat? Hello friend, I already have the scheme but I would like to know which cables should be thicker and which thinner? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #8 Posted September 4, 2019 6 gauge battery to ground battery to push button and push button to A terminal on generator 14ga is adequate for all else (you may use 12ga if you prefer) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #9 Posted September 5, 2019 Thanks, that's what I wanted to know! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elliot Garfinkel 166 #10 Posted September 8, 2019 Hi I am new here but I just got done rewiring my 702 with some help from some of the very knowledgeable and patient members here I used the wiring schematic from the 753 it had the color code also everything works fine.the only thing is my starter works but not the generator part I had it bench tested before I started and I was told it needed to be rebuilt but didnt have it done until I was able to run it. I hope this helps I usually dont give out advice as a newbie but ihad success 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #11 Posted September 8, 2019 I have to rebuild my starter motor turns without force and sometimes I can't with the compression of the engine and I have to help him with my hand. The other day I was placing a new ammeter and I think I connected a very fine wire to terminal B and it doesn't come out from the terminal L voltage to the ignition key and the electric fuel pump does not feed me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,571 #12 Posted September 8, 2019 @carlosking450 many people prefer to switch to a volt meter system instead of ammeter. @ebinmaine convinced me to do it. The wiring would be a positive wire to one post and a ground wire to another instead of the positive voltage running through the ammeter. Eric explained it in simple terms as to where ammeters malfunctioning could melt down the wiring or tractor... whereas a bad volt meter simply wouldn’t read the voltage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #13 Posted September 9, 2019 The truth is that I have not thought about it and it is probably more necessary and less trouble, thank you very much! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #14 Posted September 9, 2019 Where do you connect it so that it does not dial with the removed contact? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,571 #15 Posted September 9, 2019 I believe I understand what you mean, you could connect both positive wires to the + post, and not need to modify any of the harness. Just run your ground wire and you’re all set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488 #16 Posted September 10, 2019 With ignition key off voltmeter is off. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,571 #17 Posted September 10, 2019 Yeah, what Garry said! Good catch! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #18 Posted September 12, 2019 thank you very much, you are phenomenal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #19 Posted September 28, 2019 On 8/27/2019 at 9:20 PM, pfrederi said: Fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts. With engine running should be between 13.5 and about 14.5. If voltage while running is the same as off then do this quick test. Take a small wire hook one end to a good ground and the other touch to the F (field) terminal on the generator. You may hear the engine slow a bit and the voltage should go up to about 14. If it does your problem is in the voltage regulator. if there is no improvement then the problem is most likely with in the generator itself (Charging field coil) La batería completamente cargada debe ser de 12,6 voltios. Con el motor en marcha debe estar entre 13.5 y aproximadamente 14.5. Si el voltaje durante el funcionamiento es el mismo que apagado, haga esta prueba rápida. Tome un pequeño gancho de alambre de un extremo a una buena tierra y el otro toque al terminal F (campo) en el generador. Es posible que escuche que el motor se desacelera un poco y el voltaje debería subir a aproximadamente 14. Si lo hace, su problema está en el regulador de voltaje. si no hay mejora, entonces el problema es más probable con el generador en sí (bobina de campo de carga) Good evening, I have cleaned the starter generator I have sanded the brushes were still good and I changed bearings for a new one, the starter has more force but still not loaded, which is the F connector to do the mass test, I think the regulator is wrong, it may be that the starter works well and yet does not load? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #20 Posted September 28, 2019 Two terminals on the generator one usually has an A stamped inot the body of the generator. The other is the F (field) ground that one while running and see if it charges. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #21 Posted September 29, 2019 Hello friends, I have already tested the terminal F of the regulator and the voltage does not rise and the motor does not collapse, due to your comments the generator must be wrong, it is possible that even starting well as the charging system fails? Or should I buy a new generator? I want to take this message to thank all the members for the quick reply and help you give me, I wish I could help you like you do to me !!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #22 Posted September 29, 2019 There are separate field coils for starting and for charging. One can fail but the other will still work. So yes you could have no charge but it would still crank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #23 Posted September 29, 2019 Field coils are those that are covered with cloth tape? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carlosking450 149 #24 Posted September 29, 2019 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Starter-Generator-Field-Coil-Set-Rebuild-Kit-Stud-insulator-Simplicity-/191221877569 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #25 Posted September 29, 2019 33 minutes ago, carlosking450 said: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Starter-Generator-Field-Coil-Set-Rebuild-Kit-Stud-insulator-Simplicity-/191221877569 Yes...One is wired to produce electricity the other to make the unit function as a starter motor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
