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The Tool Crib

Best engine oil

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The Tool Crib
Posted (edited)

 I know there have been some threads  here about the best engine oil to use in these tractors .  I'm already sold on the Rotella 30 weight oil. So that being said there is a certain 30 weight Rotella to use. There is a letter in the mixture which is specific To use for the tapets  on the valves of these Kohler engines .  One was a T.

Any thoughts?

Edited by The Tool Crib

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peter lena

USING ROTELLA  T 1  STRAIGHT 30 WT ,  with low ash composition  is what i use , its the low ash feature that cleans up and prevents  the milky crap created by the wrong oils . i have talked about hot oil  flushes on these engines , to help flush out the wrong oil deposits that turn into a milky residue, typically a couple of lower hour , but hot oil flushes , with a rotella  refill cleans up these engines quickly, also helping the rings seal better.  remember this engine design is decades old , and newer oils do not have the coverage that a  diesel low ash  oil has . since regularly using rotella , my oil stays clean longer and really cleaned up my internals in the kohler. you can obviously use what  oil you want , but if your dip stick tube is slimy or milky mixture in it , you are using the wrong oil.  just my own opinion , but it works for me, pete

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ZXT
Posted (edited)

I personally like non-detergent oils. Kohler K series don't have a filter to catch all of the debris that a detergent oil would stir up, and this debris could work its way into the rod journal.. Not something I particularly want to happen. 

 

If you were to run detergent oil in one that's fresh rebuilt, that would be one thing. Using it on an engine that likely has had non detergent oil ran in it for the last 50 years just spells trouble in my mind. 

 

Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam.

 

I could be completely off base here, but that's my thought.  

Edited by ZXT
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953 nut
Posted (edited)

Image result for travellers diesel 30 motor oil  At Tractor Supply.

Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam.

Edited by 953 nut

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953 nut
14 minutes ago, ZXT said:

 

Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam.

 

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ebinmaine

Oil.

 

Change it.

 

Done.

 

 

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jabelman

everything gets penzoil 10-30

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ZXT
2 minutes ago, jabelman said:

everything gets penzoil 10-30

Your poor engine.. Lol.

 

To all of my car guy friends, I've always said I wouldn't run Pennzoil in a lawnmower.. and I wouldn't!

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adsm08
29 minutes ago, ZXT said:

I personally like non-detergent oils. Kohler K series don't have a filter to catch all of the debris that a detergent oil would stir up, and this debris could work its way into the rod journal.. Not something I particularly want to happen. 

 

If you were to run detergent oil in one that's fresh rebuilt, that would be one thing. Using it on an engine that likely has had non detergent oil ran in it for the last 50 years just spells trouble in my mind. 

 

Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam.

 

I could be completely off base here, but that's my thought.  

 

Diesel oil also has a much higher detergent content than gas oil.

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Howie

I have some old Kohler manuals probably from the 70's and the oil recommendation

is for 30wt high quality detergent oil. heard a rep from one of the engine manufacturers

tell us at an update school can use the 10w30 but expect more oil consumption. Now 

granted that was a good while back. I do not think the K series engines were ever 

machined to the exacting tolerances the modern stuff is. Can one use it, sure but  for

me I won't in summer weather. We all do what we think is right for our own engines.

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WHX24

You asked for it Cribs so I'll be the smart @$$ .... Whatever keeps the damn thing from blowing up! :lol:

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Darb1964

Today's oils are so good if you keep it full and clean I think your in good shape. I do like the heavy weight in hot weather and lighter in the winter. Keep it clean!!

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, Darb1964 said:

Today's oils are so good if you keep it full and clean I think your in good shape

Darb' nailed it as far as I'm concerned for an older sling type non pressured engine.

 

Change it when you're supposed to, or even earlier, and these old Kohler beasts will give you many hours trouble free.

 

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Racinbob

:text-yeahthat:Much more important than brand. 

 

I've used Valvoline in all my engines for 40+ years with outstanding results so I'll stick with it. All my K-Series get 30w year around. As @Howie mentioned, use detergent. It's what Kohler recommends and yes, 10w30 will likely cause more oil consumption. It definitely did on a 341 I had but going back to 30w stopped it. :)

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AMC RULES
Posted (edited)

Image result for 30w oil

Edited by AMC RULES
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clueless
27 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Image result for 30w oil

Yea, that's the one :thumbs:, nuff said.

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clueless

Actually, down here I use Rotella 40w in all my small flathead engines, since 95% of the time I use them the temp outside is between 80 and a 100 degrees. Both my old flathead generators (Briggs, Tecumseh) have many hours on them (hurricanes) and still run fine, no smoke. The Briggs has over 5 weeks of almost continuous running (23hr a day) on it, with an oil change every other day. I'm sure I could go 3 days easy. 

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lynnmor

You could just ignore oil changes like the Briggs & Stratton  nonsense.

 

Since the latest API specification SN hit us, these oils have reduced anti-wear additives to protect the emissions systems.  This is not a good thing for us.  Using diesel oil will give you the anti-wear, but a different set of additives than is ideal for gas engines.  I looked around for the best non-SN oil and came up with the Kohler oil available in several weights, yes it cost more.

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AHS

I switched from regular 10w30 to rotella for my 312-8. It’s often run in the winter time for snow blowing. 

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Lee1977

Many years ago I built an old Go Kart  with a 3 HP wore out Briggs that I got cheap for a construction company. That is when I quit using Pennzoil couldn't keep it in there. It was check the gas and fill it up with oil. Switch to Havoline and it was a lot better. I still use Havoline in my Briggs Vanguard and my Toyota Truck. I had been using Traveller 30 in the 12 Hp Kohler but was out. Was at Walmart and Rotella 30 was the only 30 weight they had on the shelf. I bought 2 gallons and changed both the Kohler and Onan don't know what was in the Onan when I got in back in March It had just been changed as it was clean. THe onan had used ashall amount of what was in there as I had added a little. I have ues it about the same amount with the 30 Rotella and it has stayed full. I haven't had to add any to the 12 Kohler either since the change. I used the last of the Traveller in the 10 HP Briggs Snapper RER. I have a walk behind mower, two tillers, generator, and homemade Shortdog that will get Rotella 30 with the next oil change.

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Digger 66
On 8/23/2019 at 9:25 PM, Howie said:

We all do what we think is right for our own engines.

 

This is gospel ^ 

 

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Ike
 
bds1984

15W40 Wolf's head in my K341 and 10W30 in my M18.  Zero consumption.  Despite anyones superstitions or anecdotes, virtually any modern API rated straight 30wt or 15W40 that is changed at an appropriate interval is fine and they're be no worse for wear for an engine that is within tolerances.  Before people get all up in arms, I am enough of an oil nerd that I have sent out oil samples to Blackstone labs for analysis just to see what wear number were on my OPE and cars (new and 150K+ miles) and wait for it, the best numbers I've experienced were from Pennzoil/Shell synthetics!  And before you try to hammer me on sludge issues from the 60s-80s, 1) how often have these sludged up cars had their PCV valves and oil changed? and 2) I did pull the valve covers off and they were SPOTLESS.

 

I wouldn't get too carried away with the zinc level, too much is corrosive and not as critical in a 1960s Kohler compared to a 1966 427 side oiler Ford that is running insane valve spring pressures!  Years ago I would run straight 40wt or 50wt in the summer in a engine that would burn more oil than gasoline; I never once blamed the oil because I knew the engine was worn.

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Tuneup

Time to check the oil so thanks! for the reminder. Nothing like an oil thread to bring out the posts. For me, the motorcycles always got Delvac 15/40 diesel. The trans gears and wet clutch loved it. Suzuki fans swore by it. Straight 50 weight in the old bored and stroked beetle. Motorcraft only for the SHO (purists). Stay away from Pennsy oils because of high wax content. Yadda Yadda. As for me, straight 30W in the Ks and Delvac in the bikes. The Ford gets full synthetic. For Americans, whatever floats your boat, maybe literally.

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Lagersolut
On 8/24/2019 at 8:13 AM, AMC RULES said:

Image result for 30w oil

 

Yep - started using that about 5 years ago ... O also like the Kendall straight 30 but I need to take a trip to the dealer to get it . 

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