RM-364 36" Deck

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Hello,

     I have this deck that I would like to disassemble correctly, anyone have experience with this assembly please leave information accordingly. I would like to remove the splines/gears off the ends of the shaft and it looks as though I will need a press. I hope to exchange the cross shaft assemblies.Notice the "glob" of attempted welding, instead of freeing up the adjustment on the 36"? Sickening. I'll grind that all off and recondition both pieces. The smaller one had some tacts on the underside in the same location, didn't think to look for that before I paid for it. Again, not freeing up the tensioners and adjusting accordingly. I don't know the model number of the 32"?

 

 

RM-364.bmp

Edited July 15, 2019 by oldman

[WHNJ701 4,164]

somebody did a great write up on restoring one these decks, I think @Chris G ?? maybe.  I didnt use a press one the 2 decks I redid

[adsm08 1,431]

From what I have seen those square ones use almost the same rotating shaft assembly as my RM327.

 

I haven't had to use a press on it, but I did need a 2-jaw puller to get the gears off the cross shaft. The spindle gears came off easy once the nuts were off.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

So, once I get the horizontal gears off can I get the shaft to slide right through? How would I find that post on rebuilding the entire deck? I hope to be able and swap shafts out to replace the hanger assembly that someone had beaten with hammer or something!

Edited July 15, 2019 by oldman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

10 hours ago, adsm08 said:

From what I have seen those square ones use almost the same rotating shaft assembly as my RM327.

 

I haven't had to use a press on it, but I did need a 2-jaw puller to get the gears off the cross shaft. The spindle gears came off easy once the nuts were off.

Say, will the cross shaft pull all the way through if the side without a pulley has the gear  & bearing removed?

[adsm08 1,431]

37 minutes ago, oldman said:

Say, will the cross shaft pull all the way through if the side without a pulley has the gear  & bearing removed?

 

Yes. The bearings may get stuck to the shaft, but gentle pressure from the same puller brought them right off.  You just have to be careful because the bearing stands are aluminum.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

3 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

 

Yes. The bearings may get stuck to the shaft, but gentle pressure from the same puller brought them right off.  You just have to be careful because the bearing stands are aluminum.

OK, so the bearing with then be free but the remainder of the shaft will need to pass through it to exit right through the assembly. I hope to do this to both decks to exchange (#2, 4124 assembly bracket). It's hard to see in that picture but the assembly bracket on the RM-364 has been beaten very badly and the parts #36, (4113 pivot tube) won't seat properly, nor the parts #5, (4118 shaft).I guess my question more simply put, is will the shaft pass through both pivot tubes once the gear, bearing and bearing stand are removed from the left side?

[adsm08 1,431]

I think so. That's a little different than the 327, but same idea.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Here's what I did so far on this deck.

Step by step I took pictures of method & tools used.

I have to do the RM-364 next, then exchange cross shafts over to the 36.

I believe the gear pulley and bearing stand are identical on the 36, (I hope)

Also notice I put a pair of vise plates behind the bearing stand to make it closer to square on the backside.

See the chip in the pulley.

This I will replace with the one from the 364.

The belts are looking close to original.

Thanks for the input, I went into it with more positive frame of mind seeings how other's got these apart so easily without damages.

(Sorry about the picture rotations it's nearly impossible to correct this) iphone!

 

Edited July 15, 2019 by oldman
sequence off, rotations off!

[adsm08 1,431]

That looks very close to how I did it. I used a bearing cage on mine too, but I have a puller set with stilts that attach my cages right to the puller T, instead of putting the jaws behind it.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

"I would like a set of those"

[adsm08 1,431]

2 hours ago, oldman said:

"I would like a set of those"

 

https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Bearing-Separator-Splitters-Bearings/dp/B07G2YB3K5/ref=sr_1_16?crid=E9ORRMFDZ3CQ&keywords=bearing+puller+kit&qid=1563220140&s=gateway&sprefix=bearing+puller%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-16

 

This is the set I have. It's fairly small, but more than enough for working on a mower.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

That's a nice set. I wonder if I can get the stilts to fit mine somewhere? I may get one of those sets there, that's a good price. 

[adsm08 1,431]

24 minutes ago, oldman said:

That's a nice set. I wonder if I can get the stilts to fit mine somewhere? I may get one of those sets there, that's a good price. 

 

 

Most of the cages I've ever used had threaded holes, so probably.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Here's the lower bearings and oil seals. Used a my brass "tapping hammer" and the brush handle to recess the bearings enough for the seals. I wanted to seat the set before the final top coat so as not to scratch up the finish. I'll probably use a nice rust inhibitor on the underside as opposed to enamel base, I've had good success with that. 

 

Edited July 20, 2019 by oldman
addition of text, grammer.

[The Tuul Crib 7,332]

 I'm currently rebuilding an RM 327 and I'm looking for grease Seals for the spindle shaft. Calls for a 1303. Where did you find your seals? 

[pfrederi 17,143]

1303 should be CR 7410

 

 

[The Tuul Crib 7,332]

Above post says its an skf7408 

which is the same dementions. Just ordered them off of Zoro.

Thanx !!

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

3 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

 I'm currently rebuilding an RM 327 and I'm looking for grease Seals for the spindle shaft. Calls for a 1303. Where did you find your seals? 

I was just going to say, those numbers should pop right up as they are current. 

[The Tuul Crib 7,332]

Im also rebuilding five other decks

that will take the same seals. Its good to have these numbers!

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

I sanded down the old paint & rust, sand blaster might be too rough and didn't want any blow-outs! Having the lower bearings and seal installed helped out on preventing scratches. Then used loctite rust preventive with enamel over that, some Seamist I have tons of! Then the old IH Red on top. The blades are the 4180's original wheel horse. There's are bulletin out to shorten these 1/8th and rebalance. Cleaned up all the 5/8 x 18 threads on everything and got some fresh 5/8 x 18 elastic stop nuts.

 

Edited July 22, 2019 by oldman

[WHNJ701 4,164]

Looks good!  should last another 50 years

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Thanks, "I hope so".

[squonk 38,902]

Did you get the bearings out of the aluminum stands? They are supposed to be staked in. One of the most common problems with these decks are the bearings spinning in the stand and ruining them and the bearing seizing and spinning on the cross shaft ruining that.

[squonk 38,902]

On 7/15/2019 at 3:49 PM, adsm08 said:

 

https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Bearing-Separator-Splitters-Bearings/dp/B07G2YB3K5/ref=sr_1_16?crid=E9ORRMFDZ3CQ&keywords=bearing+puller+kit&qid=1563220140&s=gateway&sprefix=bearing+puller%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-16

 

This is the set I have. It's fairly small, but more than enough for working on a mower.

Harbor Freight sells that same set. That's where I got mine..