Original Lauson Tecumseh H55B-1170

[formariz 12,045]

I am not sure which h60 you have, however the flywheel on the h55 should have magnets all around.

 

[Jennifer 1,878]

1 minute ago, Shynon said:

Thank you so much!

[Jennifer 1,878]

Just now, formariz said:

I am not sure which h60 you have, however the flywheel on the h55 should have magnets all around.

 

Yes H55 Does!

[formariz 12,045]

@Shynon Thank you. Great reference photos.

[formariz 12,045]

The flywheels I have none are aluminum and should not be. Some look like it because they are of a metal which does not rust and look like aluminum. They should be heavy. It may not be a H60 you have there. Anyway if you need another flywheel  the correct ones show up from H60s. They should have magnets all around, 10 or 12. I believe starter ring is actually removable but that in itself is not easy to find.

[formariz 12,045]

@gwest_ca, Gary perhaps it would not be a bad idea to put @Shynon photos of the Tillotson linkages with the other information already existing for that carburetor. That is information that is hard to come by for the 60 Suburban unless you have a working one with that set up.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,492]

On 5/30/2019 at 10:17 PM, formariz said:

@gwest_ca, Gary perhaps it would not be a bad idea to put @Shynon photos of the Tillotson linkages with the other information already existing for that carburetor. That is information that is hard to come by for the 60 Suburban unless you have a working one with that set up.

Does this work?

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q="Engine Lauson Carburetor"&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or

 

Garry

[formariz 12,045]

Awesome. Thank you Garry.

[Jennifer 1,878]

I have the engine close to being ready to get bored.  Bad thing after I cleaned it up some I realize a repair job on the block hidden!  What’s your thought?   Also why is there treads in the block on carb. Side?

Edited June 3, 2019 by Jennifer

[formariz 12,045]

Too many surprises on that one. There may be more. Personally I am not sure that I would invest any time or money on re boring it. That block may be seriously compromised. Probably time better spent looking for another one if you want to keep tractor original.

As far as threads on carburetor side, I have seen that done before on one that came my way, an H60 where they switched things over, exhaust on right and carb on left. I am not sure how well that would workout. Exhaust valve still on wrong side that way and port and valve dimensions are not the same. Interestingly enough that engine also had all kinds of torture done to it.

[Jennifer 1,878]

40 minutes ago, formariz said:

Too many surprises on that one. There may be more. Personally I am not sure that I would invest any time or money on re boring it. That block may be seriously compromised. Probably time better spent looking for another one if you want to keep tractor original.

As far as threads on carburetor side, I have seen that done before on one that came my way, an H60 where they switched things over, exhaust on right and carb on left. I am not sure how well that would workout. Exhaust valve still on wrong side that way and port and valve dimensions are not the same. Interestingly enough that engine also had all kinds of torture done to it.

I was being to wonder that my self...  heart breaking I bought it because that engine!  Then had it shipped to me...  you win some and you lose some.  If you here of one for sale I am looking...  if nothing more I have learned a lot.  Thanks you and everyone else for there time and  knowledge !!!!

Edited June 3, 2019 by Jennifer

[oldredrider 2,553]

You know I have that H55D for sale...

Send me a PM and we can talk if you're interested. 

[formariz 12,045]

@JenniferThere you go. Paul is a great guy. If you get his just switch your flywheel cover so you have the correct tag. Reuse carburetor set up also

[Jennifer 1,878]

2 minutes ago, formariz said:

@JenniferThere you go. Paul is a great guy. If you get his just switch your flywheel cover so you have the correct tag. Reuse carburetor set up also

Is Paul @ oldredrider?

[oldredrider 2,553]

2 minutes ago, Jennifer said:

Is Paul @ oldredrider?

Yup. That's me!

[formariz 12,045]

Yes he is.His may just be ready to bolt on.It will save you a lot of grief.

[Jennifer 1,878]

Just now, oldredrider said:

Yup. That's me!

Ok great!  Sorry I don't know any body but by there member name still getting the hang of things!  Thanks

[bc.gold 3,406]

On 5/30/2019 at 9:14 PM, formariz said:

The flywheels I have none are aluminum and should not be. Some look like it because they are of a metal which does not rust and look like aluminum. They should be heavy. It may not be a H60 you have there. Anyway if you need another flywheel  the correct ones show up from H60s. They should have magnets all around, 10 or 12. I believe starter ring is actually removable but that in itself is not easy to find.

 

If the ring gear is removable could one not mark the current position with soapstone, remove the gear then reposition it 45 degrees  from where the engine prefers to stop.

 

It's not a fix but would extend the life of the ring gear until a new one could be found, when the gear is off measure the ID and tooth count. You'll probably discover that gear has been used on several brands of engines.

 

 

 

[pfrederi 18,690]

9 hours ago, bcgold said:

 

If the ring gear is removable could one not mark the current position with soapstone, remove the gear then reposition it 45 degrees  from where the engine prefers to stop.

 

It's not a fix but would extend the life of the ring gear until a new one could be found, when the gear is off measure the ID and tooth count. You'll probably discover that gear has been used on several brands of engines.

 

 

 

 

That is an interesting thought.  However the only way i have ever removed ring gears was to break them.  Then you heated the new ring gear (and sometimes tried to chill the flywheel).  I am not sure you could heat the ring gear enough to remove it with out heating the flywheel a bit at the same time.  That small heating/expansion of the flywheel might make it to hard to pull the ring gear off.

[bc.gold 3,406]

7 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

That is an interesting thought.  However the only way i have ever removed ring gears was to break them.  Then you heated the new ring gear (and sometimes tried to chill the flywheel).  I am not sure you could heat the ring gear enough to remove it with out heating the flywheel a bit at the same time.  That small heating/expansion of the flywheel might make it to hard to pull the ring gear off.

 

Ring gears come off cold, you need a flat drift with a half inch flat a two pound hammer. Give the drift a reasonably heavy tap then advance a few inches on the gear and repeat, keep this procedure up until you've made the full circle.

 

By now you should see some movement on the ring gear, repeat the above procedure until the ring gear is completely removed from the flywheel.