Strainer D180

[Ralph283 0]

Hi Folks...

 

I have 2 D160 and 1 D180 Wheel Horse tractors... I'm working on the D180 transaxle that had the right side axle pulled out by previous owner and that's how I bought it.. I bought it for parts but I've decided to put it back together as the 18hp Kohler runs real good!! I've been able to locate parts online except the hydraulic oil strainer part# 5992, Toro part#106047.. how does strainer stay in place. IT has one end that goes to the hydro motor that got chewed up pretty badly. I realize that end is sort of held in place by the end that goes to Hydro motor but I'm wondering if the cap on that end needs to be bent, straightened out somehow so that it holds the strainer firmly in place so when you put the 2 halves of the transaxle back together it don't come loose and fall down in the case and be of no use then.

Also, what are the torque specs for this transaxle?

 

Thanks, Ralph

[oliver2-44 8,852]

 someone with knowledge on the big D's will be along, there a great breed of there own.   @daveoman1966 might be some help on this question.

[pfrederi 17,147]

All the Sundstrand hydro gears and Piston to piston used that strainer.  Might try AtoZ tractor in our vendor section to see if he has a used one.  it is held in the transaxle case by the hydro motor and its gasket ( a little grease may help hold it in the transaxle case while you get the hydro motor mounted.  I have never seen a specific torque for the mounting bolts. 

 

You may want to make up two aligning pins  that way they will support the hydro motor as you slide it in and you can use you finger to make sure the screen is staying in place.  3/8" x 2-1/2; NC bolts cut off the head grind/file a bit of a taper on the cut off end and cut a slot across so you can use a screwdriver to help get it out when you are done.

 

Do you have the manual you can download it here

 

 

 

 

Edited April 11, 2019 by pfrederi

[The Tuul Crib 7,332]

to

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[Sarge 3,462]

When trying to hold those strainers in place while also trying to mount the hydraulic motor - the studs mentioned by Paul are a must. I also use a strip of sheet metal shim stock and some duct tape to hold the strainer in place until the pump sits on top of it - then carefully withdraw the shim stock while pushing a bit inward on the pump to capture it. Great place for a second set of hands, which I never seem to have when I need them. The easiest way is with the transaxle out of the tractor, mounted on a table or in a vise and have the assembly at the top to let gravity do the work. Pay close attention to that parts breakdown drawing - it will show the orientation of the strainer and gasket to capture the strainer correctly to the housing. Many times someone will remove the hydraulic motor while the axle is in the tractor and get the strainer off to one side - which results in the internal gears eating the thing. Hopefully, no debris went through the pump/motor - that can cause a lot of scoring problems in both the pump and motor, which can get really expensive in a hurry. 

 

Btw, if the transaxle is removed from the tractor - be prepared for a fun fight getting those seals on correctly for the hydraulic line manifold on top of the housing. Some engineer had a real sense of humor with that design.

 

Sarge

[pfrederi 17,147]

47 minutes ago, Sarge said:

Btw, if the transaxle is removed from the tractor - be prepared for a fun fight getting those seals on correctly for the hydraulic line manifold on top of the housing. Some engineer had a real sense of humor with that design.

 

Sarge

 

 

I would guess the same engineer that figured out to start with a pump and build a tractor around it

[Sarge 3,462]

Exactly, Paul. Has to be the same nut that not only built the tractor around the mostly hidden/buried pump but also designed the 3 or 4 versions of the most overcomplicated direction control ever used in a hydrostatic drive tractor. That whole setup makes even the worst Deere or Kubota look simple and easier to work on in comparison. I tend to think in later years he moved onto GM and designed the front side engine components for the Quad4 series - especially the "right there in the open" alternator that nearly requires the engine/trans to be unbolted to remove the dumb thing.

 

I think it is far easier to remove the engine in a D to work on the pump, even if it is only a minor job. For the rear axle, remove the fenders, fuel tank and entire seat assembly. If it has the Easy Ride seat, well, have fun with that...

 

Sarge