Ihave now answered my own question

[troutbum70 857]

Earlier I had asked the question could I get the brake wheel off my 417 without removing the rear wheel. So to answer my own question, no way when its been on there for last 34 years. I have had a gear puller on it under pressure for two days now and it has not budged. My question now is how much heat can I put on it and shaft without maybe doing damage to the shaft? Not worried about the seal because reason for removing the brake wheel is replace the leaking seal. This is a situation where by 34 years ago when it was new if I would have removed components such as this and put a liberal coat of anti rust on them it would have made life simpler today.

[squonk 38,848]

They usually come off easy. sounds like maybe the woodruff key is cocked binding it up.

[The Tuul Crib 7,332]

I had one that wouldn’t come off easy .

what I did was get some wood wedges or shims and go behind the wheel.Tap them in and tap on the wheel some too but not too hard to break it. Oh and lots of 

patients too! Good luck 

[troutbum70 857]

Well I have beat on that bugger so hard that I knocked the bearing cap on the side of case out and that's while putting pressure on it with the gear puller. My only thought now was heat, but that would require removing the gas tank and all.

[Pullstart 59,570]

The heat from a map gas torch wouldn’t be near enough to damage the shaft.  You can heat it, then quench the pieces with a piece of paraffin wax to help lube the two pieces.  The heat will wick the wax in similar to soldering copper.

[Sarge 3,462]

Best way to remove those steering wheels is with a bearing splitter and companion puller attachment. Never fails and won't damage the steering wheel. 

 

Sarge

[troutbum70 857]

Sarge actually the wheel I am trying to get off is the brake drum, but I have made many attempt's to remove the steering wheel to replace it. So thank you for your suggestion I will give that a try.

[troutbum70 857]

Toolcrib I would think the gear puller would work as well as the wedges, but it is worth a try. I will also give pullstarts idea a try with the maps gas and wax.

[ebinmaine 62,978]

Does that one have set screws located where they are dirt covered?

[troutbum70 857]

None that I can see if there were I don't know how one would get to them. I think it is just the result of being on there for the last 34 years.

[ebinmaine 62,978]

Just now, troutbum63 said:

None that I can see if there were I don't know how one would get to them. I think it is just the result of being on there for the last 34 years.

I hadn't see any set screws on a brake drum in the first 1/2 dozen transmissions I'd messed with.

 

I broke a drive pulley when I didn't see that it had 2 screws buried in muck.

 

I agree that high heat and paraffin or your favorite penetrating oil of choice is your best option.

Heat. Cool. Soak. 

Repeat.

 

It'll go eventually.

 

Like @squonk Mike indicated... It could be a mechanical defect causing extreme binding.

Try to soak it and see if you can get a small punch to the key itself.

 

[squonk 38,848]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Does that one have set screws located where they are dirt covered?

Brake brake drums are usually held on w / snap ring

[troutbum70 857]

This one has a bolt and washer no keys that are visible.

[ebinmaine 62,978]

1 minute ago, troutbum63 said:

keys

The Woodruff key that is between the output shaft and the brake drum itself.

[classiccat 548]

 

32 minutes ago, squonk said:

Brake brake drums are usually held on w / snap ring

 

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

The Woodruff key that is between the output shaft and the brake drum itself.

My 5091 doesn’t use a key or split ring.  The shaft has opposing flats in it and the drum fits over that and held in place with a bolt/washer.

 

 

[rjg854 10,711]

I tried for 3 weeks to get the brake drum off my 854, I ended up using steel splitting wedges under the brake drum as it got farther away from the transmission to get it off the shaft.  That dang thing sure seemed like it was welded in place.  And I tried every trick in the book before I finally resorted to that.  It did come off, and I don't believe I did any internal damage, but what a job it was.  All I wanted to do was change that seal, but I did manage it.  Persistence!

[troutbum70 857]

Classiccat mine is exactly the same setup, I was thinking the shaft had opposing flats and maybe tapered as well. I can see by your picture there is no tapper, so I will continue to work with it till it gives in. Thank you for the picture.

[doc724 924]

The brake drum is not tapered.  There is a D shape on the drum and a flat on one side of the shaft.  Go buy a can of Kroil.  Best thing out there for removing stuck parts.  Spray the interface between the drum and the shaft every day for a week, then try your puller.  

[troutbum70 857]

Classiccat provided a very good picture of the transmission split showing the flat side on the shaft. Pullstart recommended heating and melting wax to lubricate it. I guess I need to pickup some kroil I keep hearing good reports on it.