Jason B 28 #76 Posted January 17, 2019 I believe you're right, just wanted confirmation. Don't want to break these hens' teeth. I'm nervous after going through the fiasco I did by frying the charging coils and then searching for replacements. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #77 Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) Your connections are correct. Green wire to go to center post in rectifier and from there to on/off switch, Two white wires from generating coils to two outside posts on rectifier. Notch on diodes towards fuse or battery. Looks like the condenser I specified for you is not going to work on that unit. You do not have a separate clamp for it. You will need one with clamp attached already.This one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CONDENSER-for-Ignition-Set-fits-Tecumseh-H22-H25-H30-H35-H40-H50-H60-H70-H80/263431601952?hash=item3d55bf3f20:g:Le4AAOSwRTVaV8TX:rk:8:pf:0 Edited January 17, 2019 by formariz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 882 #78 Posted January 18, 2019 Take the wires off that stud and re-test. make sure that spring does not touch anything. may be just the picture but make sure that green wire does not touch anything either. A lot of times it is in that area somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #79 Posted January 22, 2019 Does anyone know what size battery I need to get for this 552? I know physical dimensions - group U1. But how many amps can the factory starter on the Lauson HT55C handle? Don't want to burn up another hens tooth... I got my capacitor today, so completed the rebuild of the stator/coil assembly. Mounted it, set the points gap, mounted the flywheel to check for interference with the charging coils, set the piston to .050" BTDC per @formariz excellent timing instructions, and reinstalled the flywheel. Got incredibly bright spark at the spark plug when cranked. Ready to fire for the first time in who-knows-how-long... but my little ATV battery is not going to cut it for cranking power. What do you guys with smaller engines use? I would read through the owners manual (and may still, if no one responds in the next half hour) but I am running really short on time before going to town. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,573 #80 Posted January 23, 2019 Any standard lawn mower battery should have no trouble turning that engine. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #81 Posted January 23, 2019 48 minutes ago, Achto said: Any standard lawn mower battery should have no trouble turning that engine. Plus you are in mild weather there, so you can do with only about 230CCA. What are you using to turn it on and off as far as switches go? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,809 #82 Posted January 23, 2019 On 1/17/2019 at 3:16 PM, Jason B said: I believe you're right, just wanted confirmation. Don't want to break these hens' teeth. I'm nervous after going through the fiasco I did by frying the charging coils and then searching for replacements. You are correct in not wanting to ruin those hens teeth ask the guys here first....their pain might be your gain! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,796 #83 Posted January 23, 2019 You can't have too much battery, the starter will only draw what it needs. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #85 Posted January 23, 2019 Pretty sure the starter is done. Starts out real strong, but loses torque by the third key turn. The motor appears to have crazy good compression. I didn't feel any binding when turning the engine over by hand while the spark plug was out, but it's pretty stiff going past TDC on the compression stroke. If you turn it slow past compression, you can feel it leak down slowly and then it is easy to turn (as expected). The starter won't turn the motor over more than once before quitting. I will look for a local starter/alternator service shop tomorrow. Looked online for a replacement starter - they're about as hard to find as charging coils. This motor has a recoil starter, but the mount for the recoil starter is currently drying with a new coat of red paint after being sandblasted. I'll pull the flywheel and mount the recoil starter tomorrow. Will let you guys know what happens. Hopefully it will start - timing is spot on and there is strong bright blue spark. I'm sure the carb will need cleaning. Haven't got that far yet. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,752 #86 Posted January 23, 2019 3 hours ago, Jason B said: The starter won't turn the motor over more than once before quitting. It may not be the starter's fault. Your key switch is very old, almost as old as me! Much like me, the switch can't do as much as it could a few decades ago! Use a good jumper cable from the battery directly to the starter and attempt to turn it over several times. If there is no change then the starter is probably at fault, if it turns over well then your key switch is probably the problem. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #87 Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) I believe that tractor is supposed to have a heavy duty push starter directly connected to battery and starter, and have a separate switch to ground or unground magneto.You could just use a toggle switch for that. I would stay with that system. What ever you do, no voltage to magneto. Curiously enough also, every Tecumseh that i have particularly H60s, starters have a more difficult time turning them than other engines. I played with the timing on both high and low ranges of the recommended settings but it is always the same. So as @953 nut suggests, it is very important that you make sure all possible voltage goes to starter from battery. Clean connections and cables are very important. That switch may be corroded inside . A heavy duty push switch as the original is able to carry more voltage than any key activated one. Now a days I also started eliminating all old battery and starter/solenoid cables that originally came with the tractors, and replacing them with ones I make here. This way I ensure not only that I have better predictable conductivity but also that I keep length to a minimum which is also a big factor.Many of these tractors have very old cables that have already been recycled from somewhere else and when you look at where wire enters connector, many strands are broken, therefore really making them a lighter gauge cable. I use a good quality welding cable that is flexible and has more and much thinner strands that keep them from breaking. Edited January 23, 2019 by formariz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,809 #88 Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, formariz said: I believe that tractor is supposed to have a heavy duty push starter directly connected to battery I'm with Cas on this, also thinking this is where the start button was mounted?? Looks like a PO job. The key switch would just grounded the magneto to kill. This switch would have been mounted on the center portion of the tank/hood stand. There might be a hole there for said push button starter as well. A plate to relocate these switches would have been part of a HY-2 option as otherwise they would be inaccessible behind the pump. . That relocation bracket was missing on a 753 of mine with an HY-2 so a PO relocated it to the left side tank stand. . Edited January 23, 2019 by WHX21 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #89 Posted January 23, 2019 Success!! 953 Nut, you were absolutely correct. Started right away with the jumper cables hooked to my truck. This battery is older and weak, and may be part of the problem. I removed it from my 1940 John Deere LA to try and bypass the issues I was having with the atv battery being too small. Looks like I may need to buy stock in a battery company. Formariz, I will look at some parts schematics and see how this is supposed ot be wired up. I know there are some things missing, and I suspect this machine did not originally come with the HY-2 setup. I have seen pics where there is a sheet metal box on the left side of the steering column tower with the key. I will try to source these parts. As far as the magneto goes - I did not hook the wires up. I did test the output of the charging coils shortly after this video was made - output is from 12-12.4VAC. Is this the correct output as far as voltage? WheelHorseFirstStart_Compressed.ts 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,809 #90 Posted January 23, 2019 While we're at it Jason save yourself some possible grief and don't forget to replace those fuel lines and add a filter. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,809 #91 Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) Thanks for the vid!!!! Sounds pretty good! Get a little jolt off the plug trying to futz with the throttle did we?!?!?! Edited January 23, 2019 by WHX21 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #92 Posted January 23, 2019 7 minutes ago, Jason B said: Success!! 953 Nut, you were absolutely correct. Started right away with the jumper cables hooked to my truck. This battery is older and weak, and may be part of the problem. I removed it from my 1940 John Deere LA to try and bypass the issues I was having with the atv battery being too small. Looks like I may need to buy stock in a battery company. Formariz, I will look at some parts schematics and see how this is supposed ot be wired up. I know there are some things missing, and I suspect this machine did not originally come with the HY-2 setup. I have seen pics where there is a sheet metal box on the left side of the steering column tower with the key. I will try to source these parts. As far as the magneto goes - I did not hook the wires up. I did test the output of the charging coils shortly after this video was made - output is from 12-12.4VAC. Is this the correct output as far as voltage? WheelHorseFirstStart_Compressed.ts Follow values on chart below. Looks like sweeeeeet success. I am real happy for you. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #93 Posted January 23, 2019 1 minute ago, WHX21 said: Thanks for the vid!!!! Sounds lpretty good! Get a little jolt off the plug did we?!?!?! Yes, I can confirm we are getting VERY GOOD strong spark. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #94 Posted January 23, 2019 @formariz Couldn't have done it without you, brother. Thank you so much for all the help with parts and info. Thanks to all of you! Go team! Now to star on the HY-2 rebuild and rear end teardown/clean up. I also bought some tri rib tires for the front wheels. Will be dismounting the existing tires, sandblasting the wheels, and repainting in gloss ivory. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #95 Posted January 23, 2019 1 minute ago, Jason B said: Yes, I can confirm we are getting VERY GOOD strong spark. Best spark tester there is! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #96 Posted January 23, 2019 Just now, Jason B said: @formariz Couldn't have done it without you, brother. Thank you so much for all the help with parts and info. Thanks to all of you! Go team! Now to star on the HY-2 rebuild and rear end teardown/clean up. I also bought some tri rib tires for the front wheels. Will be dismounting the existing tires, sandblasting the wheels, and repainting in gloss ivory. Real happy it worked out. You would have done it anyway because of where you came to. I only passed along what I learned here . Hope you will do the same for someone else . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #97 Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) Look for more pics on this little tractor soon. I think I will start a new thread at this point, as this one is getting pretty long. I plan to fully document the restoration of this one. I will be hanging around here for the foreseeable future, as we now own one of the tractors I have coveted since my first experience with old iron. I will be glad to contribute to anyone that needs help! Edited January 23, 2019 by Jason B Apparently I can't spell when it's below freezing. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,495 #98 Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) On 1/10/2019 at 3:51 PM, stevasaurus said: I tagged Lane in my post on the 1st page...he came in, but he did not say anything about having the seals yet. I do not have any thing for the HY-2...I got all my stuff from IndyWH and he has not been on here in quite a while. He does do Face Book though..."Wheel Horse Junkies". If the lever returns...your spring is good. I am out of seals and O rings for the Hy 2 and 3 Hein-Werner pumps Steve and Jason. But Lowell S. sells them (wheelhorseman100) see in the Vendors section on Red Square and on Ebay. He sells the gasket for the fluid canister, the O rings for the hydraulic piston/cylinder, springs and the 1/2 inch seal for the shaft the drive pulley rides on. Lowell's hydraulic parts link: https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hydraulics.html Not a very difficult task to upgrade the replacement parts on the Hein-Werner pumps if you take your time and have a good work surface to do it on. Edited January 23, 2019 by Lane Ranger 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,859 #99 Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) @Jason BYou mentioned before about starting another thread with the rest of the restoration. Others may also chime in, but I think you should keep it in this thread and eventually Moderators may actually elect to move it to Instructional Threads and Videos since there will be a lot of good information in one place. Your tractor will be one with a few unusual things in it that will interest many. Edited January 23, 2019 by formariz 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason B 28 #100 Posted January 23, 2019 I can do that. No problem! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites