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Elkskin's mower junkyard

What do you guys use?

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Elkskin's mower junkyard

Been working little on hood testing things on the 552. Bottom of hood I used mix of jb weld and Taryl putty. Top of hood is mainly jb weld. Front of hood had a dent and that's filled with taryl putty. I don't use bondo because of cracking risks plus it traps moisture. So what do you guys use for body filler. Sorry pics are out of order Maybe lol

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WHX??

I use body filler for dings that won't dolly out but my real choice is fill it in with patch/welding and grind/sand as required. Especially on stress points like that hood to frame or where the orginal metal is totally gone. .  Since we aren't flying these things at 33,000 ft or looking to win any trophies tho I say go with what works for you, your skills and  budget. Anyone here is not going to tell you what you are doing is wrong...thank you for even trying to save! :)

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Elkskin's mower junkyard
3 minutes ago, WHX21 said:

I use body filler for dings that won't dolly out but my real choice is fill it in with patch/welding and grind/sand as required. Especially on stress points like that hood to frame or where the orginal metal is totally gone. .  Since we aren't flying these things at 33,000 ft or looking to win any trophies tho I say go with what works for you, your skills and  budget. Anyone here is not going to tell you what you are doing is wrong...thank you for even trying to save! :)

I cut out bottom of this hood because the good hoods bottom was shot. Welded it in with my Chicago electric 125 amp flux core welder but ummm I ain't a pro lol

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Elkskin's mower junkyard

In fact I flunked welding class in school darn book work

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Achto

If the imperfection is deep and can't be hammered out I will use a fiber glass reinforced filler then I will do my final finishing with Bondo. Most important thing when using fillers is make sure the surface is free of rust and has a good mechanical scratch in it. 

Edited by Achto
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WHNJ701

one tip I would offer whatever filler you do use take it to down to  bare metal, don't go over rust or paint.  bondo has a reputation there are good plastic fillers out there, I generally use the napa brand filler with good results, then apply glaze putty then prime and paint.

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WHX??
24 minutes ago, craftsmanmowerfreak said:

In fact I flunked welding class in school darn book work

Ain't that the truth Freak ....Truth really be told I could probably crochet a doily better than I could weld but that's why I pay guys to be my bro! 

What Jabel said does hold true tho take it down to bare metal whatever way you prefer. Its not like you are looking to preserve a patina. Since this one is that far gone anything goes in a resto or just a fixer upper. Good luck!

Edited by WHX21
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Elkskin's mower junkyard

its getting stripped in spring i am just playing around at the moment but yes top was sanded down and the side. i dont have my usual perfered tool of choice right now so hand sand alot and drill with wire wheel or power sander but its nothing like the ryobi grinder i need to find another wire wheel for it. 

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Chris G

Well I would agree with everything previously stated. If Imy full blown redoing and not preserving. Then I will try my hardest to straighten everything I can with whatever tool I think will do the trick. But for final touch up I like stripping to bare metal and use a fiberglass body fill. Then I will sand and the use a good etching/fill primer. Then sand and do final touch ups with bondo. Then continue with sanding and again and painting and so on. But I have learned and has been previously mentioned, do whatever works for you and is feasible for your wants and needs. 

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Mike'sHorseBarn

@craftsmanmowerfreak how do you like that taryl putty? I've been meaning to try some for a special little project.

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Elkskin's mower junkyard
3 minutes ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

@craftsmanmowerfreak how do you like that taryl putty? I've been meaning to try some for a special little project.

Does good job. I even pieced a junk engine together from junky parts. And patched a hole in the block with the putty and it held no leaks. I have used it on other things too. I like it.

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Elkskin's mower junkyard

Ran that engine around put it under loads. Nothing broke patch held. Funny thing is I know how to do engine rebuilds but bc this was just a test I put a used piston with used rings in the 7hp Briggs block didn't even hone it. It didn't smoke

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Mike'sHorseBarn

I'm gonna give it a try then!

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Pullstart
On 12/13/2018 at 8:58 PM, WHX21 said:

I could crochet a doily

 :wwp:

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Elkskin's mower junkyard
Just now, pullstart said:

 :wwp:

Lol

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WHX??

Knit one pearl two....:laughing-rolling:.....Sry no pics!

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DennisThornton

Nothing wrong with "Bondo" when used properly and not to excess. 

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WVHillbilly520H
11 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

Nothing wrong with "Bondo" when used properly and not to excess. 

I know "Bondo" is a brand but it really is just a generic way of saying plastic body filler at least from my short stint at body shop work :confusion-confused:...

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WHNJ701

bondo got a reputation from folks piling it on inches thick.  I redid a 65 mustang many years ago that must have 3 gallons of mud all over it.  not 1 dent was popped out, every one was just filled over. I guess that's why there is a picture of one on the can.

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RandyLittrell
On 12/13/2018 at 7:45 PM, Achto said:

If the imperfection is deep and can't be hammered out I will use a fiber glass reinforced filler then I will do my final finishing with Bondo. Most important thing when using fillers is make sure the surface is free of rust and has a good mechanical scratch in it. 

 

 

This is good advice, exactly how things are done in most body shops today and the metal today is very thin compared to what we are working on. Most people use the word Bondo instead of auto body filler. Use a good quality light weight auto body filler and you won't have any problems with moisture or cracking. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

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DennisThornton

Yes, "Bondo" is the "Kleenex" of facial tissues.  It's just a widely recognized name of many "two-part polyester resin" brands.

It is not a replacement for skills with a hammer & dolly. 

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