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ebinmaine

Can I add a voltmeter to a 1267 or 867?

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ebinmaine

How do I wire it?

 

I've not had had much experience with the starter/generator tractor wiring.

Thanks!!

@953 nut

@pfrederi

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Mike'sHorseBarn

You can but I don't think you can break the B circuit on the switch because that is heavy gauge wire. There is a wire off the B post on the voltage regulator (Green wire in the picture) and I think you could wire it in that circuit though. I took the diagram straight from an 867 manual and the 1267 would be the same.

 

809476984_867wiring.JPG.6023e31febce47502890fe3af73e6fa0.JPG

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953 nut

If you connect the "+" terminal of the volt meter to the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator and ground the "-" you will be good to go.

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ebinmaine
22 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

If you connect the "+" terminal of the volt meter to the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator and ground the "-" you will be good to go.

Should that style  voltage regulator still put out about 14 volts, as does the later ones in the 70s and newer?

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Mike'sHorseBarn
7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Should that style  voltage regulator still put out about 14 volts, as does the later ones in the 70s and newer?

 

It should be somewhere around there. Usually between 13 and 14

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gwest_ca

If you hook the voltmeter + to the I (ignition) terminal the generator lamp will still function.

If hooked to the S terminal it may not work as designed.

 

Garry

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

If you hook the voltmeter + to the I (ignition) terminal the generator lamp will still function.

If hooked to the S terminal it may not work as designed.

 

Garry

Thank you Garry but there's no generator lamp in this tractor for some reason. A PO removed it long ago.

 

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ebinmaine
8 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

If you hook the voltmeter + to the I (ignition) terminal the generator lamp will still function.

If hooked to the S terminal it may not work as designed.

 

Garry

I meant to ask two things about this earlier.

1. What does the generator lamp do and how does it function?

I've never had a tractor with one and this one should have it but it does not.

 

Which leads me to this...

2. Why do you say that it might not work if it was on the S terminal?

 

Thank you for your answers...

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gwest_ca

Long time since I tinkered with one.

The socket the generator bulb is in is a special one that is insulated from the chassis. They have 2 wires - one to the socket and one to the bulb. When there is a difference in voltage between the two wires current flows through the bulb from the higher voltage to the lower voltage and lights the bulb. Bigger the difference the brighter the light. It is a 12 volt bulb but could see anything from less than 2 volts to full battery voltage.

 

The S terminal will have battery voltage in it when turned to start but I don't know what is in that wire when running.

 

Garry 

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953 nut
On 11/21/2018 at 2:12 PM, 953 nut said:

"S" terminal of the voltage regulator

 

9 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

If hooked to the S terminal it may not work as designed.

Garry, the "S" terminal I was talking about is on the S/G voltage regulator,(should have been "L") not the ignition switch. It could also be connected to the "I" terminal of the ignition switch.

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

. What does the generator lamp do and how does it function?

Your "Generator Light" is connected between the battery "+" (through the ignition switch "B" and "I" terminals) and the Armature of the S/G through the large lead from the ignition switch "S" terminal. When the engine is turning the S/G at high enough RPMs the "A" terminal should see voltage of 12/14 volts +/- generator output depending on RPMs. If there is little or no voltage difference between the two there will also be little or no current flow through the lamp so it won't glow. I know this is clear as mud,:hide: best I can do for you.

Edited by 953 nut
correct S terminal to L
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Sarge

:text-yeahthat:

 

If the rpm's drop enough that the generator cannot create enough power compared to the battery voltage - the lamp will get quite bright, it's to indicate the system is not charging.

The whole thing works on the difference in voltage between two points - if the current is flowing from the generator back the battery the light does not illuminate. If the current is flowing from the battery in the opposite direction, the lamp will light dimly at first, then get very bright as the current flow increases from a no-charge condition. On our tractors, if you let the engine idle low enough for a few seconds the light should come on to indicate a low voltage status between the battery and the charging system. The gen lights on these actually work quite well, I'd recommend you find a socket and the correct bulb for it. A voltmeter will basically show the same thing, but it will not show if the generator suddenly stops working due to a voltage regulator issue - in that case, the lamp lights up full bright immediately. 

The original system wasn't the most powerful, but it does work and if the generator has been rebuilt it is very reliable. The original Delco unit on my 1277 is still going strong after all these years, could use a refresh for sure but it refuses to die, like the rest of it. Just be aware, generators can slam a battery pretty hard with a lot of charge current and after a time, will fail - don't use cheap lawn and garden batteries against a starter-gen system. Many of the original '60's era tractors used a much heavier amp/hr rated battery such as the 22NF, which is built to take it. I prefer the East Penn batteries versus Johnson Controls by a long shot - they just seem a lot more durable and last longer. 

 

Sarge

Edited by Sarge
forgot details

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ebinmaine
21 hours ago, 953 nut said:

terminal I was talking about is on the S/G voltage regulator,(should have been "L") not the ignition switch. It could also be connected to the "I" terminal of the ignition switch.

Hey Dick. Just an FYI. Maybe something on this tractor is messed up but I have voltage at the L terminal all the time. Key on. Key off.

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WHNJ701

my case has the generator light, works as in idiot light too if the key is still on

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Hey Dick. Just an FYI. Maybe something on this tractor is messed up but I have voltage at the L terminal all the time. Key on. Key off.

Do you  have a 3 or 4 terminal regulator??  The L substitutes for a B on a 3 terminal.  EDIT ::do you have a terminal on teh bottom of the regulator

Edited by pfrederi

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

Do you  have a 3 or 4 terminal regulator??  The L substitutes for a B on a 3 terminal.

4 terminal.

L. B. F.

And the one one the bottom goes to the A terminal on the S/G.

 

It starts and runs fine but is only 12.55 volts with tractor off and 12.35 with it running.

No charge.

 

I've replaced most of the wiring and cleaned the few pieces I reused.

Cleaned all four of the regulator terminals.

New ignition switch.

99 percent sure I've wired everything correctly.

I'm reading an old post about how to test it.

 

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Do you  have a 3 or 4 terminal regulator??  The L substitutes for a B on a 3 terminal.

I may have messed up the setting on that one Paul.

Now that I've put some thought to it... I may have had the meter on continuity instead of voltage.

 

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953 nut
21 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I may have had the meter on continuity instead of voltage

Thankfully the newer multi-meters are sort of goof proof. With the older meters you would have let out the magic smoke!   :scared-yipes:

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Razorback
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Thankfully the newer multi-meters are sort of goof proof. With the older meters you would have let out the magic smoke!   :scared-yipes:

I remember those days..... when I first started working for IBM, we had Simpson analog meters as part of our tool kits. I never smoked one, but knew plenty who did!

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