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I know this sounds like a cheap way to paint a tractor, but I'll ask anyway. Has anyone ever painted their WH with rattle can paint? If so, is it durable? I just finished dismantling my 700  to have sand blasted and painted. The cost to do the job is more than what a rolling tractor with a decent paint job would cost. Just looking for options. Thanks. 

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Have used, with excellent results, rattle can spray paint.

I like Rustoleum Regal Red. Then Terry's decals!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

http://www.redoyourhorse.com

 

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:WRS:

I would imagine that the sand blasting will cost about as much as the painting at a body shop. Read over the attached thread from a couple years back and you will see what can be done at home with a few common tools and a lot of devotion.

 

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Regal Red works fine. Also Canvas White depending on what you want for the wheels.

I try to apply in 3 light coats letting it dry 15 minutes in between. It seems to turn out better than a heavy coat.

 

Stripping to bare metal......I usually use Aircraft Stripper but did a test between that and Klean Strip Premium Stripper.

The Klean Strip worked better. It was pretty amazing. Leave it on for 15 and wah-la.....bare metal.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Dennis C. said:

The cost to do the job is more than what a rolling tractor with a decent paint job would cost.

 

This statement is true with almost every restoration/freshen ups. I do all most all of my own work, machining, body work, painting, and rebuilding. The cost of every one of my resto's goes over the sale value of the tractor and usually over my projected budget. Not a big deal to me cause my tractors aren't going any where.

 

If you're keeping the tractor then it's up to you how much you wish to spend on it. I've seen some really nice spray can paint jobs. Just take your time & try to stick with one brand of primer & paint from start to finish, this tends to help avoid issues.

 

If your painting the tractor to try to make a little more cash on a sale, then put it back together. You'll spend more cleaning it up than you'll ever get back out of it.:twocents-twocents:

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there is nothing wrong with rattle cam paint, the best tip I can offer is let the parts sit and cure for a month or 2 before reassembly.  I did a panzer which I painted all the parts in the fall and reassembled in the spring.  that tractor has held up just fine with 2 kids climbing all over it.  I used rustoleum gloss seaside 

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29 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

This statement is true with almost every restoration/freshen ups. I do all most all of my own work, machining, body work, painting, and rebuilding. The cost of every one of my resto's goes over the sale value of the tractor and usually over my projected budget. Not a big deal to me cause my tractors aren't going any where.

 

If you're keeping the tractor then it's up to you how much you wish to spend on it. I've seen some really nice spray can paint jobs. Just take your time & try to stick with one brand of primer & paint from start to finish, this tends to help avoid issues.

 

If your painting the tractor to try to make a little more cash on a sale, then put it back together. You'll spend more cleaning it up than you'll ever get back out of it.:twocents-twocents:

 

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No, I don't plan to resale this tractor. I'm 70 and wanted a WH since I was a kid. This is just a winter project to keep me busy. All hobbies are the same way.  I spend months and $$$ building RC planes but try to sell em.  Pennies on the dollar is about all you can get. No, this is just going to be Garage Queen when I'm done. In it's current state it runs and drives and appears to all be there

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What a beautiful job!!! Nice work. I see Rustoleum sells a Farm Implement paint that is suppose to be durable. How  far off is International Red compared to WH red?

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1 minute ago, Dennis C. said:

What a beautiful job!!! Nice work. I see Rustoleum sells a Farm Implement paint that is suppose to be durable. How  far off is International Red compared to WH red?

Thanks!  I have heard IH red being used.  The Regal Red is a bit darker than some other reds used, but it fits my liking!

 

Here is my build thread on Putt Putt

 

 

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I use IH red on my tractors, single stage acrylic enamel. The color is pretty close.

DSCN1926-min.JPG.b9354a6c17b5cac06f3a1188776f92b4.JPGDSCN1937-min.JPG.15f2276cf0a90f9015eb3daf53e8a7a6.JPG

 

gallery_14491_636_17465.jpggallery_14491_636_5656.jpg

Edited by Achto
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Hi,

independent what you preferr for coloring,

the only advice i can give for is:

The more time you spend for a good finish ahead the Surface, the better it looks after coloring.

Even at a closer look.

 

Mostly on working equippment, i didn't spend that much time to clean the Surface ahead,

but the Result comes quickly.

Sandblast as prepare for coating is one issue, rust prevention is the other at things, they should last long.

 

I'm thinking about, to do powder- coating in a similar Red, but the Price is a bit higher than Coloring.

I did it 10years ago on a Motocycle, it lasts without significant damages.

 

 

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I've always used IH red out of a spray gun. Although as you can see, they spray cans now do a pretty good job. Since you've had it blasted you should have a nice smooth surface to paint over and that will really help. I've just found that the paint out of my spray gun holds the gloss a whole lot longer than rattle can paint. 

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My first B-100 I did with rattle cans. If I remember correctly I used about 5 cans of primer and 10-15 cans of red (I typically put on three coats). At about $5.00/can, thats at least $75.00. After 30 days, the paint still had not cured and I had to remove it and start over. I then switched to acrylic urethane and an HVLP spayer.  I will never go back to rattle cans for the horses. 

However, no matter whether you use rattle cans or a spray gun, USING PROPER BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST. Your life may depend on it. You may not have any ill effects immediately, but long term damage to your lungs begins as soon as you inhale any paint, especially acrylics.

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 I do like Rustoleum,but prefer it in the quart containers. The harbor Freight purple gun with the built in pressure regulator works for me. The red Rustoleum primer works as well and i actually prefer it to the etching primer. I do a light etch with oxalic acid first,then the primer,and then the paint. On the tractorsthat you want to lookolder, there isno reason that you cannot clear over the old paint if you sand it a bit with very fine wet or dry.  Practice first on the BACK side of some panels and you will know if all this fuss is for you.

 

 You can also add hardener to the paint,but it is something that can be deadly if you inhale the fumes.

 

 Even if you make mistakes while learning to paint,color sanding and buffing can correct minor orange peel. I use wet or dry sand paper from800 to 1600 grit and soapy water.It does not take much sanding at all before you buff. Here is a Rustoleum job color sanded and buffed

051.JPG

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I use both rattle and a air gun. Rattle cans do good and so does air guns. I used air gun on the 502 wheel horse turned out good. I used rattle cans to touch the 502 up and looks wonderful

20181014_152330.jpg

20181014_152342.jpg

20181014_152323.jpg

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5 minutes ago, craftsmanmowerfreak said:

I use both rattle and a air gun. Rattle cans do good and so does air guns. I used air gun on the 502 wheel horse turned out good. I used rattle cans to touch the 502 up and looks wonderful

20181014_152330.jpg

 

 

 

For some reason I really dig the roached out hood on that 552!

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Just now, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

 

For some reason I really dig the roached out hood on that 552!

Lol I really would like to find another hood lol but that's how I got the 552 and don't like running around without a hood lol

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Instead of the cost of sand blasting you might consider stripping the parts with an E-tank Google e tank for details All you need is a 10 amp battery charger, some scrap steel and a plastic barrel or large tote. You can also strip parts with vinigar.from the grocery store it’s a little slow, but very minimal effort involved. If your interested PM me your email or phone number and I’ll share what I’ve learned

 

i do some painting with rattle cans. I prime, 220 grit sand, paint, let dry a week or more, lightly  400 grit wet sand, spray a second final coat. I have also  done a noted light sand and topped with clear coat (caution not all big box store clear coat is ethanol gas proof)

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21 minutes ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

 

For some reason I really dig the roached out hood on that 552!

 

Me too!

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By the Way,

about Coloring itself - normal i use only rattle can's with Acryl Color in.

i have best experiences with it , also about lasting.

Therefor i have two options, i do.

 

On Bling- Parts i dot it as followed:

A complete setup coloring will include rust prevention, so i sanded first with abrasive fleece and vibro grinder, 

then clean the whole surface carefully with spiritus to remove any kind of grease,

(worked allway's with gloves and Breath- protection as before suggested) 

then i applied fertan rust prevention with foam roll an let it work for 24 h.

After that i clean again the complete part with water, to spill any rest of fertan off.

fertan is based of phosphoracid, mainly good to protect metal, but maybe not best idea to get it on Skin!

 

Last but not least i apply the Color in several coatings ( normally 4 coatings)

each coating get a drytime of about 50 min, then next coat.

if all is done, i use additional clearcoat once.

 

On Working equippment where in my case i not need a perfect finish for, 

i just use abrasive fleece with a vibrating grinder,

the Spiritus to clean surface from any grease and finaly 2-4 coats of Rattlecan's Acryl.

depends on if color must be refreshed or if it completley new colored.

 

my experiences at my working difference so far is, that the full equipped coloring lasts sure longer, before any rust comes up again. 

 

But on rough Working equippment i think,anybody can see that it is used continousely,

and i think a bit of Patina give and old thong a bit more of Charme and character because it is not new, it has it's Story.

So the function in my opinion is more in foreground than the optics.

but everybody handles this at his own feeling.

 

greet's

Stefan

 

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@Dennis C. 

At least 2 coats of primer and at least 2 coats of color. Let each layer dry and wet sand it before the next coat.

My wife did her GILSON this way and most folks can't tell it is a "rattle can" job.

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