who am I, help

[pfrederi 17,147]

I do not think Techy HH series had internal regulated charging systems.    I also do not think the stator was removed.  It is needed to power the solid state ignition module.  Wouldn't hurt to check voltage but I doubt you will see any chargeing affect.

 

See the wire from stator to the SS module (gray thing) 

[Achto 26,565]

  The wires with the plug on the end of them will be from the charging coil. These two wires should have AC voltage when the engine is running.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

@SimonC  to 

[SylvanLakeWH 24,146]

[SimonC 35]

Greetings,

 

so I can confirm that with the engine running or not, my battery pole register the same voltage (around 12.31v) 

 

the plastic terminal female connector has 3 wires coming from behind the flywheel.  The two black wires (male) connected to it are routed (nice way of saying dangling  ) near the dash where they are simply cut and taped off.

 

assuming that those are the AC leads missing from my rectifier, how do I test them, not sure how to set my multimeter for this purpose.

 

thanks !

[WHX?? 46,789]

Set the meter to the 200 ohm setting and read through the two wires and let us know what the meter says. I'm not sure what the specific resistance of this coil should be. Next read each wire to the engine block to check for shorts to ground. Ther should be no meter reading at all or infinity. Repeat with the meter set on the 2000k setting. 

Important. ..do not let the wires touch with the motor running. You will let the smoke out of the charge coils if this happens.

Next with the motor running and the meter set to the 200 volts ac position (Second to the right from off) see what the voltage is at idle and WOT (wide open throttle). Again not sure what this particular coil will put out but others will. Usually between 20 and 40 volts ac. It helps to have a second set of hands for this or alligator clips on the meter leads.

Again DO NOT let the wires touch with the motor running. 

If that passes You can go one step further and connect the wires to the two OUTSIDE  terminals on the regulator and with the motor running  check the output of the regulator by reading from the center terminal to ground with the meter set on the 20 VDC position. 3 clicks to the left from off. You should get a reading that varies with engine speed but no less than 12 volts or no more than 14  volts. If all is well you can wire the center terminal on the regulator to the battery per the wiring diagram and repeat the test. One more thing make sure the regulator is securely grounded to the tractor and back to the battery. This is very important as well. My guess is ther is a fault somewhere ...a PO usually doesn't cut and tape those wires off for the fun of it.

Edited September 13, 2018 by WHX20

[Achto 26,565]

11 hours ago, WHX20 said:

. If all is well you can wire the center terminal on the regulator to the battery per the wiring diagram and repeat the test.

 

You may do this to test if you are charging. Once you know that you are charging, then you will need to run a wire from the center terminal on the regulator to a switched hot (only has power with the key on) on the key switch. If you run direct to the battery DC power will be fed to the regulator when the engine is not running, this will cause damage to the regulator.

[WHX?? 46,789]

11 hours ago, WHX20 said:

battery per the wiring diagram

Yes very important.

[SimonC 35]

1 hour ago, WHX20 said:

Yes very important.

just need to identify how the "extra" solenoid is connected to this diagram.

 

thanks!

[pfrederi 17,147]

light gauge write 14-16 ga from S terminal on ignition switch to the small terminal on the solenoid Use the one the PO did).  One heavy wire 6 ga from Battery + to a big terminal on solenoid (either one is OK.  Then another heavy wire from the other solenoid terminal to the starter motor

[SimonC 35]

in the parts diagrams, there seems to be an in line fuse hooked up to the cigar lighter,  Now, I couldn't care less about the lighter for the moment (maybe to charge cell phone in the future), however my concern is that on the electrical diagram the lighter is between the ignition switch and the lights.  Should I put a fuse between the light switch and the lights ? my intention once I fix the DC current issues is to get a LED light bar or something similar that will provide decent lumens when snow throwing (nothing ridiculous).  

 

thanks

[Achto 26,565]

1 hour ago, SimonC said:

Should I put a fuse between the light switch and the lights ?

 

It is never a bad idea to fuse your circuits.

[WHX?? 46,789]

I beg to differ on the nesscesity  of the cigar lighter  tho but you hit the high point Simon. At shows we often charge our cells off that point and it's a standing joke with us that the makers 50 years ago knew we would be doing this. Chargeing hi tech phones off antique equipment. Not to mention running our pellet grilles and whatnot! Stick with led lights, fuse them as should and you will have no problem. Just guessing here but you should have at least 15 amps of lighting power.

[WHX?? 46,789]

BTW I should have called @953 nut into this discussion, I believe he has a simple diagram of how that solenoid should be wired in. Sorry Richard I really should save those diagrams. 

[SimonC 35]

16 minutes ago, WHX20 said:

I beg to differ on the nesscesity  of the cigar lighter  tho but you hit the high point Simon. At shows we often charge our cells off that point and it's a standing joke with us that the makers 50 years ago knew we would be doing this. Chargeing hi tech phones off antique equipment. Not to mention running our pellet grilles and whatnot! Stick with led lights, fuse them as should and you will have no problem. Just guessing here but you should have at least 15 amps of lighting power.

15 amp of LED lighting should cover the needs lol.  especially if I want to make sure the neighbor know that I'm driving the tractor around

[pfrederi 17,147]

10 hours ago, SimonC said:

15 amp of LED lighting should cover the needs lol.  especially if I want to make sure the neighbor know that I'm driving the tractor around

 

 

I am pretty sure comparing the old voltage regulator in your picture with the Techy Service Manual i believe you have a 10 amp system.  That is more than enough for LED lights as your engine isn't drawing power for ignition system.

Edited September 14, 2018 by pfrederi

[SimonC 35]

21 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

I am pretty sure comparing the old voltage regulator in your picture with the Techy Service Manual i believe you have a 10 amp system.  That is more than enough for LED lights as your engine isn't drawing power for ignition system.

hmmm I haven't seen this page in any of the manual I've downloaded so far.  care to provide the link to it ? 

 

thanks

[SimonC 35]

other than the wires connected to it being severed, how can a stator be broken, isn't it simply copper coils with magnets on the flywheel passing over it to generate current ?

 

thanks yet again

Edited September 14, 2018 by SimonC

[WHX?? 46,789]

16 minutes ago, SimonC said:

copper coils with magnets on the flywheel passing over it to generate current

Exactly but they have been known to have a break in those coils due to vibration, heat, overload etc.  They can also ground out from the same causes. If the mounting screws come loose that can be disastrous as well.

Here are a couple of manuals but may or may not apply to your engine. Still good universal trouble shooting info in them.

Engine Tecumseh 3hp to 11hp L-Head SM _692509.pdf

Engine Tecumseh Quick Reference SM.pdf

[SimonC 35]

good stuff @WHX20, thanks!

[Achto 26,565]

37 minutes ago, SimonC said:

how can a stator be broken, isn't it simply copper coils with magnets on the flywheel passing over it to generate current ?

 

Those copper windings (wires) are coated with a varnish, this insolates them from each other. Varnish and usually a paper like material insolate the windings from the laminates (steel plates). If the wires get over heated the varnish & paper can burn off causing it to short to ground or each other. A broken wire in the windings can also cause the stator not to work.

Edited September 14, 2018 by Achto

[SimonC 35]

2 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

Those copper windings (wires) are coated with a varnish, this insolates them from each other. Varnish and usually a paper like material insolate the windings from the laminates (steel plate). If the wires get over heated the varnish & paper can burn off causing it to short to ground or each other. A broken wire in the windings can also cause the stator not to work.

makes sense.  I've got some diagnostic work ahead of me to check all this.  hopefully I can check some of it over the weekend, 5 kids under 10 tend to suck up spare time like crazy

Edited September 14, 2018 by SimonC

[pfrederi 17,147]

 

[SimonC 35]

just to confirm, would my spark plug get juice if my flywheel/stator was broken ? 

 

thanks

 

Simon

[Achto 26,565]

6 minutes ago, SimonC said:

just to confirm, would my spark plug get juice if my flywheel/stator was broken ? 

 

I believe that there are separate windings on you stator. 1 set for the ignition and 1 set for charging.