Jump to content

SimonC

Supporter
  • Content Count

    91
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

29 Excellent

About SimonC

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    Raider 10

Profile Information

  • Location
    Trois-Riviere, Quebec

Recent Profile Visitors

103 profile views
  1. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    in addition, the metal under the ignition unit (which reads the trigger pin position) was damaged a bit, surface is not fully flat. Simon
  2. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    Hi, just started taking things apart to do a visual inspection first. WOW, never seen so much spider nest (white balls) in such a small space. I found a pinched wire, it doesn't seem to be cut, but I'll let you guys tell me what you think. some pictures
  3. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    spark plug is new, I simply tested by cranking with plug out of the engine block. I'm not sure how else to test it without a proper tester. However the other obvious sign that I can see so far is that whenever I crank, if I have a spark, I see the smoke coming out of the muffler.
  4. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    before I unscrewed the ignition module, I had no spark, hence me trying to troubleshoot my way into things outside my comfort realm And yes, the ignition module under the engine shroud (where the spark plug wire ends). I have not downloaded the manual. thank you for the pages. so this morning after the battery being charged, I went to start, it ran for 5 seconds before dying again. And following that, I am back to having no spark. the two screws that holds the ignition module in place are not very adjustable, should they provide enough play nevertheless to properly adjust that air gap ? Could the cold outside contract metal enough that the gap becomes too big for the module to read the pins ? I'll do the ohms test as described. Module seems very expensive, I hope it's something stupid as an adjustment. thanks Simon
  5. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    well .. now I've redone pretty much all wiring, save for accessories for which I'm waiting to get proper lights. engine cranks when I ask it to now (replaced both solenoid and switch). However I've got no fire. From what I read (and you guys can confirm), if I disconnect the wire coming from the flywheel (the 3rd lead from where the two AC ones are) it should allow me to eliminate wiring issues from the rest of my wiring, is that correct ? Nevertheless, when I do, still no spark at the plug. I just unscrewed the coil and put it back (without removing wires) and I managed to get some puffs of smoke when trying to restart (after charging the battery again). It's getting pretty cold down here, first winter with this tractor. Wondering if the heat of my hands playing with it somehow did something. Could it be a dead coil or should I look at something else first ? Kind of desperate as it keeps snowing and the shovel is only keeping up with the bare minimum. thanks Simon
  6. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    actually, what gauge is recommended for the solenoid to the battery and to the starter ? might be worth replacing them as the jacket is getting brittle. thanks Simon
  7. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    doh!, there goes my next planned upgrade... thanks guys, I'll have to go source some nuts because everything from the old dont fit on the new, plus the new has flat connector for the small terminal instead of screwed in... Simon
  8. SimonC

    cranks when powered

    behavior was happening before I replaced the switch, actually made me think it was the culprit as I had other issues with the switch. The switch I installed is this one: https://www.stens.com/430-070-ignition-switch I went to the local store and got a tractor and lawn solenoid (https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mtd-replacement-tractor-solenoid-0607533p.html#srp), it is however quite a lot smaller than my current one. attaching a picture of the sticker on it. Just wondering if it'll be good enough. The terminal size are also quite smaller on it. thanks Simon
  9. Hi, wheel horse raider 10 1969-70 with a tecumseh 10hp My battery was dead and I assumed it was because my regulator was still not replaced. However as soon as I connected my booster pack on it, even without the key in the ignition, the engine started cranking. I have replaced my switch (5 connectors). From my research, it seems like the issue could be a stuck solenoid (or internally shorted). I see that those are not very expensive, but I dont know what specs I should be looking at to buy. Could any of you provide some data as to what I should look for as a replacement, assuming you agree that this is most likely the issue thanks Simon
  10. SimonC

    What's missing mower deck

    on this picture that you posted, the hole that has something like a washer on it is used by my pedals, however I have the bottom one. the bottom (to the right on the pic) is not what was provided on the exploded part diagram, would you guys think that it could still be used to install a lift t-bar for the mower deck ? thanks Simon
  11. I believe the forum used to be available on tapatalk but no longer. Not sure why either. As far as I know, at this point your only option is using safari (or any other 3rd party web browser on the ipad). and welcome !
  12. SimonC

    who am I, help

    any reason why this switch wouldn't work as a replacement if my current one is defective ? https://www.stens.com/430-070-ignition-switch priced very decently (15$) and is compatible with the Stens 430-223 wiring harness to make things cleaner thanks
  13. SimonC

    who am I, help

    Ok, so I'll bypass the switch and see if the regulator comes alive. If yes, something is wrong with my switch. I could always put a dedicated switch for this as I'm guessing leaving the 12v on the regulator will drain the battery. Thanks
  14. SimonC

    who am I, help

    Also, I guess I should be able to confirm that the regulator is working by hooking up the battery positive directly to the DC lead on it.... If that works it would point the finger at the switch. That's one thing that isn't rusted out lol.
  15. SimonC

    who am I, help

    So if there is no diode, my switch might be defective then. Out of curiosity, why would the regulator need 12v DC to work ?
×