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Tim T

C-195 blowing 25 amp fuse

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Tim T

Have had my tractor die on me a few times while mowing this year. Once my son-in-law wiggled wire from battery to 25 amp fuse to ammeter and then it started. Tractor died again a month later and noticed 25 amp fuse blew. Replaced fuse and has worked fine many hours until today. Fuse was blown. Turned ignition off to relace fuse but there was still significant power going through the wire and arced when inserting the fuse (which immediately blew). I read in this forum that corrosion around the ammeter backing strap caused his fuse to blow. I removed ammeter and inspection of the wires, connections and strap found no smoking gun. Anybody have an idea what I can check / troubleshoot to find cause of high amps running through the fuse and blowing it? Thanks in advance.

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gwest_ca

Usually corrosion will not blow a fuse. Corrosion adds resistance to current flow (less flow) and the result is heat resulting in melted plastic.

To blow a fuse you have excessive current flow.

Try connecting a 12 volt test light to the two fuse terminals. If a short is present the light will light. Saves feeding the problem fuses.

You may be able to move the wiring around just a bit and that will control the test light on and off leading you to the problem area. Simulate what the tractor vibrations would do. Try that first.

Look for wiring that is close to a sharp metal edge that has worn the insulation on the wire. The steering shaft constantly turning will also wear a close wire. Look for a flat area worn in the round insulation.

 

These diagrams may help. There is one showing what is alive with the key OFF if the problem exists with the key OFF. The twin cylinder models are wired differently than the single cylinder models and that is illustrated.

Garry

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peter lena

gwest was spot on with this wiring call , in addition this would be a great opportunity to start wire wrapping your circuit and help eliminate wire chafing .https://www.amazon.com/Spiral-Cable-Wrap-Length-Color/dp/B016045OY6  once you find your issue you can also use this wire covering to prevent further  wire issues. used this many times to clean up wire grouping . you can get this covering at any wire supply spot. pete

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Tim T

Thanks. So far I have isolated it to regulator rectifier. Will check down stream of that. Will 12 volt light across the 25amp fuse cause wires to burn at the cause?

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gwest_ca
54 minutes ago, Tim T said:

Will 12 volt light across the 25 amp fuse cause wires to burn at the cause?

No it will not. The filament in the test light is limiting the amount of current that can flow.

One side of the test light sees 12 volts. The other side will see ground only when the short is present and that will turn the bulb on. This will only work with the key OFF.

 

Garry

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Tim T

I unbolted the regulator rectifier  (rr) from motor shroud. When the rr is not grounded my test light across the main fuse holder does not light. When the rr is grounded the light goes on. Does this prove that the rr is shorting out internally and needs to be replaced.?

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gwest_ca
7 hours ago, Tim T said:

Does this prove that the rr is shorting out internally and needs to be replaced.?

Not necessarily. There could be a resistor or capacitor in the regulator that is connected to the ground of the regulator and that is enough to light the light. Not an electronics guy but have heard that called a high impedance ground.

Remove the regulator from the wiring and check the resistance between each of the 3 terminals and the regulator ground. One of the AC terminals and the DC+ of the regulator should give you the same reading. The other AC terminal will be different. I do not know the actual values but low resistance would be enough to blow a 25 amp fuse. A resistance of 1000 ohms or more I would think is normal.

 

Will try tomorrow morning to find one and check the values.

 

I had mentioned to take the test with the ignition OFF. It never dawned on me that the regulator could provide a high impedance ground and it is wired directly to the battery. Key does not turn it off on this model.

Key ON does add high impedance grounds such as the ignition coil if the points are closed. That would be enough to light the test light but perfectly normal because the test light sees a ground through the ignition coil and points to ground. Not a short.

 

Garry

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Tim T

Okay I'll try that. What I did do today was isolate the RR from ground, installed a 20 amp fuse, started tractor and mowed my grass. The smaller fuse did not blow but I'm sure the RR does not function so I ordered another one. Only cost $16 so not a big loss if I'm on the wrong track. Will let you know results. 

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gwest_ca

I don't have a tractor with that style of regulator here at the moment so did not measure the resistance. I am sure the larger finned regulators would be different.

A regulator needs to be grounded to work so your temporary solution was a good call.

 

Garry

 

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Tim T

Sorry for not getting back to all. The advice given was so helpful. It was a bad rectifier regulator. I installed the new one and everything works fine. Thanks for all the input. 

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