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Manny Bartek

1054 Transmission Rebuild

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Two weeks ago purchased what turns out to be a 1054 { 1964 } Wheel Horse tractor serial # 42654 . Transmission shifts poorly , currently locked into two gears . I plan to down load manuals for tractor this weekend .and clean and split the transmission to see what needs to be repaired .

 I can't thank WH members enough for getting back to me on " What Do I Have Here ? "  and identifying  it as a 1054 .

 

Look forward learning more from all of you members who have shared conversations on your Wheel Horse tractors .    Manny Bartek ...AKA "Skyliner"

 

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No thank you for saving one Manny. Looking forward to see what you find. Lots of pros here on what you are doing so keep us posted.

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I've worked on many vintage cars and full size tractors but have never worked on one so clean ...no rust !! Tractor was owned by a 98 year old who cleared all neighbors snow and dirt work as a favor to them . He was a city farmer for sure ...

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The hardest part of the job may be removing the hubs from the axles. There are several posts on this site about hub removal, but on the 1054 you have the advantage of being able to split the case,split the differential and remove the roll pin then pull the axle. once that is done you can move the axle to a hydraulic press. There are several threads on here about hub removal.

This thread from @stevasaurus is great and will guide you through the process.

 

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Manny,  Good luck with the rebuild.  Follow Stevasaurus's videos, and you will not have a problem.  And, you and I have the same floor jack!  I believe it is a Sears Craftsman 2 ton.   Mine was gift from my parents about 45 years ago!  I rebuilt it a couple years ago,  and it works like new. 

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@Manny Bartek ...your 1054 should have a #5047 transmission...that means you should have 1 1/8" axles...the (what is called the) Heavy Duty transmission.  It also means that you have the bevel gear differential.  There is nothing wrong with any of this.  The fact that you are stuck between 2 gears is not uncommon with these early 3 speed transmissions.  To fix what is going on...lift the shifter boot to expose the Allen head (dog point) set screw and lock nut...loosen the lock nut...the set screw will probably turn out with the lock nut.  If it does not, use a 1/8" Allen wrench (coming in from under the frame to loosen the set screw enough to pull out the shifter).  Pull out the shifter and take a look into the shifter hole...You should see 2 forks that are not in line (making a square)...use a long screw driver to position the forks so that you are looking at a square...welcome to neutral.  :)  You can now roll your horse...replace the shifter and drive your horse.

 

   If you end up opening the tranny, you will see that the way that the shift fork shafts are made can create a suction when shifted and actually get suck back into gear while you shift into one of the other gears.  It is very important to come to a complete stop before shifting gears with your transmission.  changes were made in later years to get rid of this suction thingy.  We do have some threads on this subject in the Archives, that deal with this.  If you do open your trans, it would be easy to solve the problem by taking a 4" grinder and putting a flat side on the shift fork shafts so that the oil has a place to go and thus not having any suction. :occasion-xmas:

   If you are interested in knowing all of this and doing it...let us know and we will point you in the right direction.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

   This is what neutral looks like.

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Thanks to both of you , great advice and video !!  Mcgrew , you are right about our floor jacks , I just picked up a second jack that I will put into a future photo .

I was really sweating this tear down , your video was detailed but I will definitely fallow your lead on a " Clean Table " with basic layout and labeling of all parts ! Thank all of you again ..Manny

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Opened my #5047 transmission case but carefully looking on removing shifting forks . Oil contains steel slivers from poor operator shifting gears . 

Cluster gear shaft will need replaced ..tooth broken off and damaged teeth on neighboring gears . The low / reverse gear and the high / 2nd gear will also need replaced . What concerns me is small spring  in bottom of case , and not in detent operation for fork . Looking at right picture will show the tooth broken from cluster gear shaft , the destroyed spring of the detent system and a unknown piece of pipe that appears cut off / worn off from unknown location . Attempting to pull out shifting forks . Hubs removed successfully using large amounts penetrating oil . 

Will down load manuals , hopefully will get parts numbers for repairs .

  Stevasaurus ....your transmission video was great !!  

 

Note : Picture lower right ...12 o'clock is smashed spring .   3 o'clock broken tooth from cluster gear shaft .   8 o'clock  sheared pipe ?

 

Manny Bartek...Skyliner guy

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7 hours ago, Manny Bartek said:

Cluster gear shaft will need replaced ..tooth broken off and damaged teeth on neighboring gears . The low / reverse gear and the high / 2nd gear will also need replaced .

The good news is that the internals of your transmission are the same as other three speeds (differential and axles are not) so if you can find a good parts donor three speed you can save yours.

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Thanks for your update . I'm new to this , do you think I can list the gears as " parts wanted " on our site ?

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Manny, of course you can put a thing in the want adds.  I would also PM our vendors ...A to Z, Lowell (wheelhorseman).

 

It is tough to tell from the picture, but I think that cut off thing might be the cap that sealed the 1/4" hole for where the detente stuff goes.  I can't think of another place it could come from.

 

If your differential, axles and mushroom gear are in good shape.  The rest of the stuff is common to 3 speed uni-drives.  :)

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Stevasaurus and 953 nut , you have been most helpful . Completed tear down  , axles and transmission look very good minus the cluster gear shaft and gears #3523 and # 3524 .

I had mentioned I found what was left of spring from the detent system along with a gear tooth and a piece of tube . I did find the two steel BB's and the small spring from the detent /shifting forks area .I've spoken with A-Z parts and will be using them .

I am attempting to down load ....W/H manual transmission service manual  and the W/H 1054 and 953 temporary manual and service bulletins .    The listings state down loads are free but I get a message to sign up for Scribd for $ 8.99 a month . Would you have a better manual suggestion and is Scribd legit ?

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Manual down loads are free on RedSquare.

 

 

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@Manny Bartek  I'm guessing that you were not logged in when you were trying to download those manuals.  :think:

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I am sure I didn't !! Thanks for info , I'm on and off the project ...helping drive large truck of corn and bean harvest for a friend . Thanks again for your video on transmission / axle rebuild ...Manny  ...Skyliner guy

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man i still haven't got around to tear mine out yet trying to get over some personal stuff that has happened as of recent but anyways i'm locked into gears myself with my 953 bought some good used gears on ebay and go from there i think my spring and ball bearings and pin assembly is messed up and i hope it is i do have a complete cluster gear set if mine isn't chewed up we'll see i do know i will have to get new bull gear bolts the heads were chewed up on mine

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Well , I'm new in this hobby and the advice I got from Stevasaurus { Great video by him on this tranny } and 953 Nut was top notch . I waited until tear down and clean up before ordering parts , wasn't as bad as I thought . Can't say enough about all the comments and advice I received , couldn't have done it without them , Good luck on your project ..Manny ..Skyliner guy .

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well i've already been into mine and well we tried to compensate for some things missing and well worked good for a few minutes and just went to other problems from there so that i have another project i've been dubbing with too was given a 1947 GE big single door fridge and needs a relay and found one but not sure how wire it up being that old but anyway we'll see if i can get mine out this weekend good luck with yours my friend i'll be watching

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A-Z Tractor shipped all my parts , rear axle completed , transmission coming along . I will need to visit a machine shop for one last repair . Previous repair made to stick shift lever , must have broken or stripped the 1/4 " set screw in case opening . They repaired by drilling out a larger hole , larger bolt that was crudely made into a point to take place of factory 1/4 " set screw system .  Real problem was in drilling the case , off center and poor contact with snifter ball socket  . I believe I can screw in a solid brass plug , have machine shop drill and thread for correct 1/4 " set screw system . More photo's when completed ...Manny Bartek

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8 hours ago, Manny Bartek said:

larger hole , larger bolt that was crudely made into a point to take place of factory 1/4 " set screw system . 

What the heck was the previous owner thinking? That hole is a monster!

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When I read parts / repair manual that it was a 1/4 " set screw I knew this must have been a major player in poor shifting ...Manny

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