Engine Oil Recommendations

[Hammerboy47 2]

Hello,

I have a model 854 Wheel Horse.  I still have the original Kohler Engines manual, and I need an oil change.  The manual says "(SAE 30 in summer; SAE 10 in winter; SAE 5W, subzero)".   My question is, should I do what I have done in the past and used straight 30 weight oil, or should I change to a synthetic oil?  I would prefer synthetic, as it lasts longer, and after many years of reliable service, I would like to "pamper" my engine.  If I do switch to synthetic, there are many options to choose from.  There are lots of different choices, and some of them weren't around back when the manual was published.  Another part of me wants to put in the straight 30 weight oil, as that is what was designed to be used in the engine.  Maybe I'm just overthinking this, but this has sentimental value, and I want it to last at least another 55 years.  Does anyone have any input either way?  I'd like to hear what you think.

Thanks in advance!

Ethan

[953 nut 51,381]

4 minutes ago, Hammerboy47 said:

Maybe I'm just overthinking this

         Any motor oil you can buy today will exceed the quality of oils five decades ago. Lots of folks have gone to synthetic oils and since we are talking about two quarts twice a year I doubt that it would be a budget buster.    One thing we expect of all new members here,     .

[roadapples 6,981]

I use Castrol 10w30 in everything all the time....

[Skipper 1,788]

I wont hesitate recommending Castrol Edge Titanium as one of the really good options. I run that in 0W40 version in all my engines. 

[953 nut 51,381]

found this in one K321 manual that I looked at:

 

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE IOW-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits".

[Marv 845]

8 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

found this in one K321 manual that I looked at:

 

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE IOW-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits".

That's what I have always done. as preferred.

Marv

[Skipper 1,788]

22 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

found this in one K321 manual that I looked at:

 

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE IOW-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits".

 

 Looking at viscosity charts, oil has evolved quite a bit since then. much more uniform viscosity over the temp span. The DPF and CAT complaint ones even burn as clean as modern two stroke oil, which is basically zero deposits.

 

If it was available, I would use full synthetic 0W50, but evolution hasn't given us that yet.

 

Not meaning to turn this into another battle between science and religion.

 

 

Edited April 18, 2018 by Skipper

[Racinbob 10,256]

23 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

found this in one K321 manual that I looked at:

 

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE IOW-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits".

 

In my old K-series motors I run straight 30 in the summer but go to 10w30 in the winter in my cold weather workers. 35 years ago I didn't see any additional consumption with 10w30 in my 76 K-341 but I sure do now. Geez! You would think that wouldn't happen after 42 years and a gazillion hours.

 

Seriously, oil is so much better now I feel that by changing it often enough you'd be hard pressed to go wrong.

[WHNJ701 4,164]

I have no problems I run 10/30 in all mine

[SylvanLakeWH 24,031]

[rmaynard 14,851]

I don't know what your climate it's where you are, but I run straight 30w, non-detergent oil year round in all my single cylinder engines here in Maryland.

[rmaynard 14,851]

Having looked at your post on my laptop (your location not shown on my phone I was using earlier), I can see you are in York, PA, not far from me. Your climate is the same as mine. I use straight 30W, and have never had any issues. Just change your oil regularly, and check the level frequently. Because your engine uses a slinger for oil distribution, keeping the oil level at the full mark is more important than what type or viscosity oil you use. 

[WHNJ701 4,164]

18 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Having looked at your post on my laptop (your location not shown on my phone I was using earlier), I can see you are in York, PA, not far from me. Your climate is the same as mine. I use straight 30W, and have never had any issues. Just change your oil regularly, and check the level frequently. Because your engine uses a slinger for oil distribution, keeping the oil level at the full mark is more important than what type or viscosity oil you use. 

not to go off topic, York pa is that donut place still in business there?

[ri702bill 7,251]

All:

 

I too use straight 30 weight all year long in my 854 and the 702, but a couple of points are in order.

Straight 30 weight comes in two versions - detergent and non detergent. I use the detergent, as there is no oil filter.

Also, today's oils have NO Zinc additive in them as it clogs up catalytic converters - the zinc or ZDDP is desired in flat tappet motors like the K series. When I change the oil, in goes a couple of ounces of Lucas ZDDP Additive.

 

As far as conventional or synthetic goes, one is "Barney Juice" and the other "Barbie Juice" !!

[Racinbob 10,256]

Interesting stuff on that zinc. Not that I doubted you one bit my curiosity I did some research and that's all spot on. Something to think about. I just purchased a Caterpillar generator and they included a jug of "Premium 4-cycle engine lubricant" but not branded. I didn't use it opting for my old stand by, Valvoline, instead. Now I'm wondering if that supplied oil was higher in zinc. I'm guessing so and maybe I should have used it. Not a big deal though. After just a few hours I'll switch to full synthetic. Brings up another point on that generator but I'll start a different thread for that one.

[clueless 2,898]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

Having looked at your post on my laptop (your location not shown on my phone I was using earlier), I can see you are in York, PA, not far from me. Your climate is the same as mine. I use straight 30W, and have never had any issues. Just change your oil regularly, and check the level frequently. Because your engine uses a slinger for oil distribution, keeping the oil level at the full mark is more important than what type or viscosity oil you use. 

35 years ago my local WH mechanic told me it's all about the oil in this small air cooled flathead engines. Heat, low oil, and dirty oil, are the main reasons they wear out or go bang way sooner than they should, he said 30w, keep it full, and change it often. Down here my stuff gets used mostly in temps 75* to 95*, I use Rotella 40w in every thing that is air cooled, twins, filters, no filters, OHVs, and as the man said I keep them full and change them often. Now days I will add one more thing to keeping these things running the way they were designed to do, DON'T USE ETHANOL GAS !! Distilled corn works well in a mason jar, not in a carburetor .

[Racinbob 10,256]

@Skipper Mobil 1 does have a 0w50. But they state that it's for racing engines only. I wonder if it comes back to the zinc thing.

[Sutty 96]

Interesting that this should come up right now. I just changed the oil in my K321, as some of you may have seen from my thread. I went with 10W-30. Time will tell how it performs longer term, but as I just reported in my thread, it seems to like it on day one, lol. It's probably just enjoying being new and full, from what some have said in here. I'll be sure to keep a close eye on it, and change it more often now, after having read what's being said in here.

[Skipper 1,788]

6 hours ago, Racinbob said:

@Skipper Mobil 1 does have a 0w50. But they state that it's for racing engines only. I wonder if it comes back to the zinc thing.

 

Yeah I just found out that Castrol also has come up with 5w50 and 10w60. They say the same thing, and cars like BMW M series is factory with this oil now. It performs better in  the higher temps that these engines can produce internally under load. Don't see why it should'ent be a + to have better high temp performance in air cooled engines. I'll get a hold of it in my next shipment, and try it out. The same story was told when 0w40 was new to market, and so on so forth. 

 

New oils are newer (or extremely rarely) developed for garden machine engines, it's just adapted----slowly-----  IF religion permits......  Good thing it ain't like that with tires. We would all be driving on white wall radials then. 

 

The Zinc additive is of no concern when using the really good modern oils, as the shear strength is so much higher. The Zinc act like a lubricating barrier, kind of like the lead did in gas once (bad example maybe). It was primarily a way of improving the load carrying quality of the oil.

 

I'm not gonna trow more gas on the fire here, just aiming to round it of with the only thing I guess the different religions can agree on: Change it often. that is the most important thing of all!

Edited April 18, 2018 by Skipper

[Shynon 7,435]

9 hours ago, ri702bill said:

I use the detergent, as there is no oil filter.

Non-detergent oil was used before oil filters became standard equipment.

 

8 hours ago, clueless said:

Heat, low oil, and dirty oil, are the main reasons they wear out or go bang way sooner than they should

I would agree and add Over revving another main reason for engine failure

 

I use straight 30W detergent oil in all my tractors (because its easier to find), even in the winter as the tractors being used are stored in a heated garage.  I would be careful with oil with a viscosity higher that 30W on engines with a dipper on the crank as the dipper on the crank with cut through the oil like a knife through butter causing it not to sling up inside the motor until it warms up then it may be too late. 

 

Just my thoughts 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

1st off  to 

I vote for straight SAE 30 wt.

[953 nut 51,381]

10 hours ago, Racinbob said:

But they state that it's for racing engines only.