By Kenneth R Cluley
Kohler K301 engine supposedly from C-125. 12 horse with electric start. Turns free but I have not tried to start. Can deliver to Florida Flywheelers in January or February. Any interest, make me an offer.
So gang, it's Christmas time and my company has extended its forced vacation to two weeks, sucking 7 days of FTO from me. I've got all kinds of things to do for the wifey-poo but what the heck can I do for me?
I've got two K301s so may as well get out the surgical tools and do a b-gearectomy. The C-125 goes first. Restored that back in '17 and so she's got maybe 75 hours on her. It'll be rather painless and the youngster is visiting so can assist in getting that b-itch up onto the bench. She's already been moved to the garage and the old Kawi and its carb parts moved back to the shed while I search for tiny o-rings. Wish me luck and pics to come. Oh, there is no rattle BUT she's always had a minor knock I chalk-up to excessive end play (didn't measure it back then 'cause I'm bad but, dang!, will now).
I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today. I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also!
Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged. It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch. It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet. Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it?
What is the correct routing for the throttle cable? This just CAN'T be correct! It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable! Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short?
If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated!
While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine. To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump. I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?
The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but more so the fuel pump.
What say you K301 gurus?
By Joe Warren
A guy I know runs all his 4 cycle power equipment engines on 2 cycle fuel. He claimed it reduced engine wear. Aside from the added cost of the 2 cycle oil, are there other downsides. Just curious what you all think.
And now for the rest of the story: I spoke to the guy again. He was a mechanic at a place where they operate a lot of outdoor power equipment; with both 2 and 4 cycle engines. To prevent employees from putting straight gas into their 2 cycle machines, all their fuel got 2 cycle oil mix with it. For them, it was more economical to spend money on oil, than on blown engines and downtime.
Thank for all the great posts. I found some to be very entertaining.
@PeacemakerJack @WHX24 @Achto @953 nut @ebinmaine and anybody else who wants to take a stab at this as I am sure a Kohler is a Kohler no matter what color/brand tractor it sets in ... Back story I bought a group of IHCC just to get the 1 I wanted (126 3rd lowest production) then my son wanted a 1200 like my dad's so I let him have the best 1 of 2 to tinker and learn on, found the original engine had a broken rod so I found him another "running" at idle (I seen and heard in person before buying) K301 out of another CC and let him pull the blown engine and install the new 1 on his own, after installation he couldn't get it to run past idle missing and spattering plus carb leaking, smoking a little bit, then I bring back home and start working on it fixing other mechanical issues then jumped into the engine issues. As follows, wrong coil and a weak spark so all new components set points ran but would NOT really rev up smoked but not to terribly when reviving up but popped and sputtered, off came the head one small spot on the gasket near the exhaust valve looked to be leaking and upon further inspection the exhaust valve was pitted bad (burnt?) so I removed and tried to hand lap didn't work so had the blown engine on hand and stole the good exhaust valve and lapped it and the intake in decently, new head gasket after after cleaning and "planing" the head's gasket surface put it all back together, got it running and warmed up, retorque bolts button that up move onto the carb issues after 2 brand new "China" replicas and cleaned the original other than leaking fuel bowls no matter how I adjust the mixture screws it will idle damn near "perfectly" but getting it rev to WOT without missing popping and sputtering was damn near impossible, so here I am I got it to rev up to WOT without to much much fanfare but now it it will surge (governor moving back and forth ever so slightly unlike idle no movement at all) then will calm down then sputtering like starving for fuel (all 3 carbs, new tank petcock and fuel line , it is gravity fed) sitting still or driving around. After its warm it starts on the first bump of the key idles like new and revs up to WOT but misses/sputters/ surged there... So what else should I do, more/less point gap (now .020", can't pull the blower housing without removing engine "that ain't happening again such a PITA on these wide frame CC to find and paint the timing marks that I tried looking for through a 3/4" peep hole for an hour today)? I set checked and rechecked valve lash 3 times .009" In and .018" Ex... A couple videos to help as well. Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to give as much info the first time to help solve this debacle. And as most of you know I can build and tune a tight SBC this should be a piece of cake.