Hi. I have a C121 which starts right up but lacks power. A compression check indicated 30lbs of pressure. I took the head off hoping maybe it’s just a gasket, but I think the cylinder needs to be honed or bored out. Based on the attached pics, is this block still good and would honing fix it?
I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks
So gang, it's Christmas time and my company has extended its forced vacation to two weeks, sucking 7 days of FTO from me. I've got all kinds of things to do for the wifey-poo but what the heck can I do for me?
I've got two K301s so may as well get out the surgical tools and do a b-gearectomy. The C-125 goes first. Restored that back in '17 and so she's got maybe 75 hours on her. It'll be rather painless and the youngster is visiting so can assist in getting that b-itch up onto the bench. She's already been moved to the garage and the old Kawi and its carb parts moved back to the shed while I search for tiny o-rings. Wish me luck and pics to come. Oh, there is no rattle BUT she's always had a minor knock I chalk-up to excessive end play (didn't measure it back then 'cause I'm bad but, dang!, will now).
I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today. I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also!
Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged. It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch. It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet. Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it?
What is the correct routing for the throttle cable? This just CAN'T be correct! It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable! Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short?
If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated!
While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine. To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump. I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?
The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but more so the fuel pump.
What say you K301 gurus?
By Joe Warren
A guy I know runs all his 4 cycle power equipment engines on 2 cycle fuel. He claimed it reduced engine wear. Aside from the added cost of the 2 cycle oil, are there other downsides. Just curious what you all think.
And now for the rest of the story: I spoke to the guy again. He was a mechanic at a place where they operate a lot of outdoor power equipment; with both 2 and 4 cycle engines. To prevent employees from putting straight gas into their 2 cycle machines, all their fuel got 2 cycle oil mix with it. For them, it was more economical to spend money on oil, than on blown engines and downtime.
Thank for all the great posts. I found some to be very entertaining.