1981 Wheel Horse C85

[ebinmaine 63,153]

2 minutes ago, classiccat said:

 

Hi Jim, I'm splitting the transmission to replace the 4 seals.  I'll likely crack it open tomorrow to verify everything before making an order to  wheelhorsepartsandmore.

No need to split the transmission to replace seals but if you're going to anyways be sure to carefully check wheel bearings.

[classiccat 548]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

No need to split the transmission to replace seals but if you're going to anyways be sure to carefully check wheel bearings.

 

I tried and it's not trivial digging-out those seals without damaging the shafts and/or races; they're very narrow seals.

[ebinmaine 63,153]

6 hours ago, classiccat said:

 

I tried and it's not trivial digging-out those seals without damaging the shafts and/or races; they're very narrow seals.

Yes. Quite true.

Well you'll see what the other parts and pieces look like while you're in there so that's a plus.

[classiccat 548]

5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Yes. Quite true.

Well you'll see what the other parts and pieces look like while you're in there so that's a plus.

 

...and it will give my fresh paint another week to cure  

 

Transmission service manual for anyone else in a similar boat:

wh6_8-1_TransmissionServManual.pdf

 

[peter lena 8,069]

classiccat, very good and thorough work on that, i too have a black hood , bought new in 82, recently upgraded it to 12 hp/magnum power, never go back. replaced my plastic fender decades ago for metal. have found that the ,BLACK SATIN GRILLE PAINT , works best on the hood areas, its a perfect match for new.  your break down stage will also let you correct or modify (   and improve  )  any area that you want. for me it was wiring , and heim joints at  swivel and friction points. thanks for the picture show. pete

[Jim H 3]

Thanks..! I've had my C-85 since new and just rebuilt the engine last year so I'll get to the seals at the end of the mowing season this year

Thanks for letting me know - Jim

[classiccat 548]

12 hours ago, peter lena said:

classiccat, very good and thorough work on that, i too have a black hood , bought new in 82, recently upgraded it to 12 hp/magnum power, never go back. replaced my plastic fender decades ago for metal. have found that the ,BLACK SATIN GRILLE PAINT , works best on the hood areas, its a perfect match for new.  your break down stage will also let you correct or modify (   and improve  )  any area that you want. for me it was wiring , and heim joints at  swivel and friction points. thanks for the picture show. pete

 

2 hours ago, Jim H said:

Thanks..! I've had my C-85 since new and just rebuilt the engine last year so I'll get to the seals at the end of the mowing season this year

Thanks for letting me know - Jim

Oh man, 2 sole C85 owners on my thread... I'm honored!    Feel free to share pics of your machines in this thread as well! 

[classiccat 548]

I'm sure there are a few tranny braces on here.  

 

Here's my take using some scrap 2x6 and 2x4 lumber and some thin ply for gussets.

 

Using my late grandfather's black-and-decker wrist-snapper to bore out a 1 1/4" hole:

 

I left a little space to push-up or turn the axle/differential if needed:

 

I reckon I'm going to need to access that little plug for one of the detent balls:

 

[classiccat 548]

Once I removed the 6 bolts, I followed steve-o-saurus's recommendation of tapping on the seam with a wood chisel...after a lap or 2 around the assembly, it started to split.

 

Then I just grabbed the sucker, pushed-own on the brake shaft with my thumb and worked-it-off:

 

I was expecting much worse!  those main (expensive) axle ball bearings (1 1/2" ID) are intact and so far no needle bearings are out of place.

 

To my untrained eye, these gears look barely used.

 

 

A little pause to figure out the preferred order for taking the rest of this down.

 

Thanks for the support & encouragement folks!  

[ebinmaine 63,153]

Yo trans-massion internals looks right lovely.

 

[classiccat 548]

Finished tearing down the Trans waiting for an input shaft seal and case gasket. 

 

I'm not sure how folks get this plug out, I drilled-tapped a 6/32 screw and popped it out with a claw hammer:

 

 

 

 

I also took the opportunity to do a more proper paintjob on the trans and frame.

 

Edited March 13, 2019 by classiccat
input shaft seal

[classiccat 548]

This weekend, figured I'd try my hand at restoring some fasteners and retain more of a natural finish rather than painting.

 

 

After a some 'Tube research, Parkerizing seemed to fit the bill.

 

I don't have a media blaster so I went back-and-forth between wire wheel, evaporust and a tumbler to clean-up the HW.

 

 

Once getting clean (they really should be spotless, mine weren't), I basically cook it in some manganese parkerizing solution for about 15min, I rinse off the parts in water then dunk them in a bath of WD40 (to get rid of the water). 

 

 

Afterwards, they get a coat of Boeshield T-9 oil.  

 

I probably should've keep these parts in the tumbler for a few hours longer but it's good enough for me!

[Pullstart 59,733]

I’ve never pulled that plug, no transmission I’ve had apart ever had it to begin with!  I read somewhere that you can plug it with silicone upon reassembly.

[classiccat 548]

23 hours ago, pullstart said:

I’ve never pulled that plug, no transmission I’ve had apart ever had it to begin with!  I read somewhere that you can plug it with silicone upon reassembly.

 

Being a uni-drive NOOB, I followed the service manual as much as possible.  With this 5091 transmission, I think it would be difficult to deal with the input shaft particularly during reassembly (detent: ball <--Spring/Rod --> ball).  Either way, it wouldn't be the 1st time (nor the last) that I created more work for myself!  

 

I'm thinking of keeping a stainless 6-32 screw in there along with some sealant in case it needs to be popped back off down the road.  The head just needs to sit flush with the case.

Edited March 12, 2019 by classiccat

[classiccat 548]

On 3/11/2019 at 6:54 AM, classiccat said:

***

Afterwards, they get a coat of Boeshield T-9 oil.  

 

I probably should've keep these parts in the tumbler for a few hours longer but it's good enough for me!

 

Quick update on this... checked the fasteners before hopping in the truck for work this am and the parkerized coating soaked-up that Boeshield like a sponge; No wet/oily feeling.  

 

[classiccat 548]

Tire mounting with the HF mini changer was a breeze; a few minutes per tire.   I actually thought the 8" fronts were a little easier than the 12" rears.

 

 

^^^ damage to the freshly painted rims was incredibly minimal... limited only to a portion of the "inside" rim edge; whatever side you mount "up" in the tool.

 

^^^ outsides were completely unscathed.

 

Before I set the bead (I need valve stems anyway), i'll wrap the tires in plastic and touch-up the edge damage.  

[ebinmaine 63,153]

2 minutes ago, classiccat said:

wrap the tires in plastic and touch-up the edge damage.  

Looks great 'cat.

Deck o cards works good to mask tires as well....

[classiccat 548]

10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Looks great 'cat.

Deck o cards works good to mask tires as well....

 

That's a great idea Eric!   only problem is that these are the only kind of playing cards in my house these days 

Edited March 13, 2019 by classiccat

[ebinmaine 63,153]

Might not wanna use those.

[classiccat 548]

The C85's gearbox is finally back together.

I'm really digging the Parkerized HW; cooking-up a 2nd batch this weekend. 

 

I was waiting on my 3rd input shaft seal.   (the 2 axle & brake-shaft seals installed without a hitch)

^^^ L->R: Original -> SFK-fail#1 -> SKF-fail#2 and Toro-FTW.

 

Which brings me to a few tripping hazards when reassembling a 5091.

 

1.) If installing the input shaft seal from the outside (not removing the needle bearing), carefully file a little chamfer on the case rim where the input shaft seal goes (protect the needle bearing from shavings if it's installed).. the sharp edge was catching the edge of the SKF seals and once you kink them, they're shot.  The Toro (100402) seal seemed more forgiving than the SKF 6105 seal in this case.

 

2.) Keep something in front of that shift-rail detent passage (I got the warning & "magnet" tip right here on Red Square ).  I knew about this and STILL one of my detent balls got shot out into my driveway when I over-actuated the Low/Reverse shift rail.

 

3.) Pay attention to the orientation of that gear and spline assembly (screwdriver is pointing to it in the image above).  Everything will likely go back together but you will have a hard time turning the input shaft in neutral; glad I tested before buttoning-things-up!

 

Have a great St. Patrick's Day weekend folks!!!  

 

 

 

 

[classiccat 548]

She’s starting to look like a tractor again.

 

[Jim H 3]

Absolutely beautiful

 

[Pullstart 59,733]

What a piece of work!  I like the stand, too 

[classiccat 548]

Got the new rear kicks mounted.

^^ went with installing 7/16-20 1-1/2” long studs & lug nuts (from MMC).  Clearing the keyway setscrew was tricky on 1 bolt. 

 

The body/tower is temporarily mounted to see what clearances we have for addressing these stress cracks and beefing things up here... it looks like simple angle iron will work below and clear the clutch pulley and side covers.

 

[ebinmaine 63,153]

7 hours ago, classiccat said:

went with installing 7/16-20 1-1/2” long studs & lug nuts (from MMC).  Clearing the keyway setscrew was tricky on 1 bolt

Trina and I have done this on all our Horses and will add them to every other one we build.  

 

Doesn't help you now  but I've found I need to remove that set screw on mine while installing the closest stud bolt.

 

Keep up the good work!!