ebinmaine 70,859 #26 Posted February 19, 2018 2 minutes ago, WHX14 said: Doesn't @rmaynard have/sell replacement valves & rubber bungs? HAHAHAHAHA !!!!! Patience man, patience! I'm trying to change my ways........ HAHAHAHAHA !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paxz71usa 173 #27 Posted February 20, 2018 (edited) Thanks WHX 14, but my valve is remote mounted, so it is some what different. Gary Edited February 20, 2018 by paxz71usa 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #28 Posted February 20, 2018 As long as you keep the system clean and ethanol-free you can leave the fuel on just fine. Be wary whenever walking into a closed area that stores machines holding gasoline - if you smoke and walk into the wrong atmosphere - well, boom goes the fumes... I leave mine on , but they are used very frequently. If they are going into winter storage the fuel is either drained or the tank valve turned off for the winter. I run additives year-round to prevent fuel from going bad - the ethanol laced stuff has a shelf life of less than a month before it starts rotting things and becomes too stale to fire an engine. All my fuel use is ethanol-free here, costs a premium but I never have any fuel related issues - everyone else around here sure does and they drag their equipment here for repairs, which gets my temper to the boiling point in a hurry. Some won't learn the lesson nor listen - they are told to go elsewhere for their stupidity. Sorry for the rant, but I really hate that stuff...worse than politicians. Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paxz71usa 173 #29 Posted February 21, 2018 Thanks for the advice on the ethanol-free fuel Sarge. I've never tried it, but I've heard a lot swear by it. Gary Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #30 Posted February 21, 2018 Ethanol is acidic to die-cast aluminum, badly. Over time you'll see a white deposit starting to show up - it's eating the castings. The stuff will even eat the best fuel lines and 2-stroke engine manufacturers have started to deny warranty problems with engines from the stuff. At 10% an older engine can barely tolerate it, anything over that and it's done in short order. If any of your small engines have been using blended fuel - change the fuel lines to either the clear/semi-clear urethane used on snowmobiles or bikes or use the injection-grade fuel line designed to handle it - even those will break down over time and require being changed out every 5 or so years. Old rubber lines will disintegrate internally over time and leave very small black particles in all the jets and passages - it's death on 2-stroke small engines and will plug carbs to where you can't repair them. It will also eat fuel pumps and especially the check valves, even viton seats on floats - the stuff is evil and makes zero sense for the damage it does. My old Cruiser won't hardly run on it and cuts it's mileage in half. The '14 Hemi in my Dodge loses 20% of it's fuel mileage compared to clean-grade 91 premium over the 10% ethanol 87 it should be able to run on, not to mention it's noticeably weaker on throttle response. Look closely at the plugs in older Kohler and other small engines at the crazy deposits - it's from the fuel and I wish they would ban the dumb stuff and quit burning it . Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites