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Crazy_Carl

Need help with transaxle for a "62 702

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Hello, I recently purchased a 1962 702 in pieces with no front wheels or motor that I'm using as the basis for my ATLTF build off this year.  The previous owner told me that the transaxle was seized and needed to be soaked in diesel.  Last night my Dad and I removed the shifter too see that the oil, the gearing, and the shift forks looked pretty good.  We used a screwdriver to move the shift forks around and all the gears worked.  The problem is that someone a long time ago took this apart and put it back together without the pin, balls, and spring that interlock the two shift forks.  I could see silicone between the case halves that is not original.  I found the uni-drive manual on here which is a great help.  Is there a video or thread I can read to educate myself on how to work on these transaxles?  What's the easiest way to lock the differential? Where should I look to find the parts I need.

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Thank you.  There are some extremely uselfull threads in there including one for this exact transaxle.

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:handgestures-thumbupright::handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Don't hesitate to ask any questions that you have. These transmissions have remained basically the same over the years and even the videos for the three piece case units will help you out since most of the innards are the same.

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:WRS:  Should you want to rebuild the transmission, here is a link to a good source for parts. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html#!/Base-Kit-1/p/85721183/category=23548039

 

The spring and balls for the shift forks is not included in the kit. Balls are standard size ball bearings available at most hardware stores. Some one here should be able to help you with the spring size.

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:WRS:

Sounds like the fellas got you covered so far but like Bob says got any questions don't be shy to ask. Quite a few experts here on what you are doing.

 

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The balls are 1/4". Assuming that the shift rails are original they will be like the right two and you'll need to use a 11/16" stop pin. The next time I get to the other garage I should be able to help you out. I would suggest checking things out to see what else you need and then start the part search. :)

 

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I misplaced one of the pins once and just made one out of a 10 penny nail and worked fine. Eventually found it in the sludge in the parts cleaner. Spring & balls should be at a hardware store. Get extra balls they have a way of flying away on a guy! :D

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Use this thread for the videos that are like your transmission.  :)   In the differential are 4 spider gears.  At the moment, you will find them in alternating positions...ie. 1 up, 1 down, 1 up and 1 down.  To lock the trans, put the spider gears in 2 up and 2 down. You will make steering the horse very hard though.

 

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This sounds pretty staright forward.   I need to purchase two .25" ball bearing balls.  I need a stop pin that is 11/16 long and 1/4" in diameter?  Does it need to be hardened at all or will cold rolled be fine?  The spring needs to go around the pin and be strong and long enough to push both balls into their detents.  Locking the diff is easy as flipping gears and I can always flip them back if it turns out I don't like the way it handles.

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Yes, two 1/4" ball bearings. The stop pin is 11/16" long but not 1/4" in diameter. The springs are about 1/4" OD and the pin fits inside. I don't know if the originals are hardened but I don't see that it really matters and I don't recall the diameter. Those little springs are quite stout and I don't know if a hardware store will have something that will work right. Tomorrow is going to be a decent day outside so I'll make it a point to trudge through the deep snow to the garage down the hill and see what I have.:)

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Yes pretty much it Carl except the 11/16 long pin should fit loosely inside the spring so it will be smaller than 1/4 inch. The spring is a little smaller in diameter than 1/4 inch as well. Maybe one of the fellas who has one apart can get you some dims of the spring. The pin does not need to be hardened  or any thing. A 1" roll pin ground down to 11/16 would work well. ...Bob's a faster typer!

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My wife says the fastest two fingers she's ever seen :auto-layrubber:

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He is a cosmopolitan also...lived in at least 2 states.  I would bet the pin is like 1/8" dia and the spring is 3/16" OD.

  :occasion-xmas:  I like the nail thingy if nothing else is available.  The spring is stout though...I'll bet you could get one from TORO if Bob is unable to get to that other garage.  :)

The spring "if original" is Wheel Horse # 3518.

 

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Would it be the same spring as in a 5060 Steve? Dan @Achto has one of those apart now maybe he could get a pic/dims of the spring?

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It probably is the same, but I would check a parts list 1st.  :)

  It is the stop that could be different...the spring MAY be the same.

 

 

The springs are the same WH# in the 5060 and the 5025...#3518.....just checked.

 

 

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Yup same part # 3518 for both a 5060 and 5025 on the spring. Pin part # is different, probably as in Bob's pic.

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Crazy.Carl...make sure you  (by hand) push a 1/4" drill through the holes where the spring and detente balls go.  I find it hard to believe that somebody put together and transmission and left those parts out.  Also, use a pencil magnet and poke around in the holes where the shift forks go to see if those parts found their way into there.  More then likely, you will find one of the balls under one of the shift forks, and the spring and stop and the other ball are in place.  Don't ask how I know that.  :banana-linedance:

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I split the case open tonight.  I found one ball, the spring, and pin in the hole.  I went to the hardware store and for 29 cents bought a 1/4 ball.  When I came back to the shop I decided to sift through the oil in the bottom of the case and found the other ball!  Someone definitely didn't put this together exactly right the last time.  I was able to get the second ball and shift fork in without a problem.  I also flipped the pinion gears to lock the diff.  I still have to clean the gears and case, and re-assemble it.  Is there a cheap way to buy just gaskets and seals or just the gasket?  What do you guys think of the wear on the pinion gear, gear cluster, and reverse idler.  This damage may have been due to both balls not being in. 

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Well, you just saved me from trudging through knee deep snow tomorrow :banana-skier:

As the guys mentioned, the springs are the same and it's just the stop pin that's different in the 5060. The center detent is the neutral. See the difference in these.

 

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The one on the right is in your transmission. The left will be the 5060 but they could also look like the picture I posted earlier with the grooves all the way around. No matter. You can use the 11/16" stop pin with any rails but if you have the equal, shallow detents you have to use the 11/16". The 3/4" can only be used with the deeper neutral detent rails. :)

 

Your gears look very useable but I'd be more concerned about the inner teeth of the 3523 gear. Here's a shot of a NOS and a worn gear (but probably OK in a non-worker)

 

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My shift fork looks like the one you have pictured on the right.  My 3523 gear looks exactly like the one one the right.  :(  Where can I get a new one?

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Go see Lowell @wheelhorseman He's in the vendor section or at wheelhorsepartsandmore.com.

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12 hours ago, Crazy_Carl said:

I'm using as the basis for my ATLTF build off this year.

:WRS:             Will this be a 4 wheel drive? There are several older posts with some very good all terrain :wh:.

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It won't be a 4x4.  It is going to get some kind of front suspension, but I'm keeping the front axle because I think it looks cool and has a unique shape. It's getting a newer Kohler OHV 196cc motor from a log splitter.  Looks just like a Predator or Honda.

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