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17 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Click on the picture

Garry

 

 

Nice thanks that was neat to see...

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So I hooked up a gas tank & this thing fired right up and ran smooth as can be, it looks like someone just stopped using it...

 

Just to test drive it I need to get a belt.

 

Things that it needs are

Throttle cable

steering wheel

and the part that surrounds the dash controls is cracked pretty bad, I could fix but it would never be the same.

 

 

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On 2/13/2018 at 9:42 AM, mrshaft696 said:

 

Ive been re-reading everything & I guess I still don't understand how to tell if the condenser is conducting to ground?  Also the whole assembly should be grounded too from what I have read, and I could possibly disconnect my kill from the ignition for testing.

 

Just it stopped sparking after I took off the armature, the only reason I did it was because I wanted to put some electric tape on wires that were rubbing under the shroud.

 

Also been reading on how to set/check the timing, looks pretty tricky but im sure I can do it, kind of seems like I might have to do it since I messed with the position of the armature.

 

With your points, you need to make sure all of the pitting / corrosion is gone.   I remove them and go to town with sand paper until they're spotless.  

 

Reinstall & set the maximum points gap to 0.020"....when setting the gap, make sure the nut on the terminal is tightened down.

 

For timing, you'll need a dial gauge (to measure piston position relative to TDC) and an ohmmeter (to monitor when the points start to open).

 

I zero it out at TDC, then go nearly a full rev and when I hit the spec (for this H50 below, it's 0.080" Before Top Dead Center; BTDC).

1gssu9.jpg

 

Disconnect the condenser and kill wire from the magneto terminal and tighten the nut back down.

 

Hook-up 1 ohmmeter terminal to the magneto terminal and the other to ground (I use the magneto casing)... set it for continuity testing.

 

I then cheat a little by loosening the bolts holding the magneto just enough where I can rotate it.

 

Next carefully/slowly rotate the magneto until the ohmmeter indicates a break in continuity.

 

tighten the magneto bolts down and do a full rev and confirm that you lose continuity (points start to open) at the BTDC spec for your engine.

 

I wrote on the magneto for advancing/retarding the timing:

158zvb.jpg

 

Here's an "exciting" video from a Tecumseh engineer.  I've done this on a few tecs...and find it much easier to do with the head off.

 

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Thank all you guys for the help so far, decided to bag the Tecumseh engine in favor of a briggs 12 hp I had on a simplicity. I have the engine on a stand for the moment now, so I can mess with it.  It bolted right up in the same spot, I just need a side exit muffler.

 

Anyway this motor is running good, I just need to make a few decisions....


Biggest one being that the air cleaner does not clear the hood behind the front grille. I need to notch the sheet metal or do something tricky to the air cleaner housing and shorten it.  The lawn ranger has almost the same engine but the hood is a little different to clear the air cleaner.  Also I might be picking up a commando 8 this saturday, that is rough but pretty cool looking.

 

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Edited by mrshaft696
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How much clearance does it need?

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9 hours ago, Howie said:

How much clearance does it need?

Easiest way to explain is basically a  1/4" notch the height of the air cleaner assembly.

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I am also trying to make sure I do the right thing here regarding the hydrostat......Ive been searching google and this site trying to verify...

 

"4. Hydrostatic Units: The special hydrostatic fluid is separate from gear box oil. The cap on the reservoir under the seat is sealed when you receive the tractor. Remove the seal and check the fluid level. The reservoir should be about 2/3 full, (top of Caution Decal). Use only Wheel Horse part number 8827 fluid or equivalent such as Texaco Transhydral # 2209. This is not regular type "A" automatic transmission fluid."

 

What would I use to match the Transhydral or 8827 fluid?  I do  have fluid in the reservoir but have no idea the age or condition of it.

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2 hours ago, mrshaft696 said:

Easiest way to explain is basically a  1/4" notch the height of the air cleaner assembly.

 

Is it possible to raise the hood hinge slightly (or mod the air cleaner) to avoid cutting into that pristine tin? 

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45 minutes ago, classiccat said:

 

Is it possible to raise the hood hinge slightly (or mod the air cleaner) to avoid cutting into that pristine tin? 

 

 

That hood has to line up perfectly to engage the latch, I could take a section out of the air cleaner and carefully weld it back together, which would be tricky because of how thin....

I could also just go to a cone air filter and make or put an adapter on top of the carb...I just don't know if I like the look of it for this application or not.

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Reason I asked there are other filter housing that are maybe smaller. Don't think I have.                   both here to compare the two. A 1/4" isn't a whole lot of territory to have to deal with

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ok today it finally drives! The tractor moves pretty good, its a little slow but its all good... I put on some 22" rears and bigger fronts....  My only big problem now is that a regular tractor battery does not fit now,  need a skinnier battery. I am thinking a atv or motorcycle battery might work i hope....

I notched the hood, i had no choice because the muffler i got needed the clearance...

 

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9ULUmUz_p3E4v_59AT62Q47816xX7v9-jzJzD8I_

 

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Edited by mrshaft696
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:text-coolphotos:  ...especially that last one with the barn wood backdrop!

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:woohoo:                          :text-coolphotos:

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I accidentally put this battery pic in my commando thread, but the charger is the one that has the clearance issue with the briggs motor and the steering...

 

So I built a riser tray to bring it up 3" past the engine case bolts and steering gear.  It just barely "shoe horns" in there. I finished cleaning up the wiring almost.  When the motor was swapped before someone added a starter solenoid & there just is no where to mount it at all & I didn't want to put it under the seat and run all the lines back there.  Its a pretty compact tractor.

 

Anyway now it starts right up & drives, pretty slow but it goes up and down hills.  My tires are full of washer fluid so it has pretty good traction ....

 

Next i need to find an original gas tank or im gonna paint the one i robbed from a craftsman, or get one at the junk yard, it does not compliment the engine bay.  Also I want to paint the wheels white, because I am pretty sure that would be the correct color.

 

Only other issue is when i shut it down the exhaust always pops right as the motor is stopping, I am going to try to shut off the fuel next time maybe & see if that helps

IMG_7186.JPG

IMG_7190.JPG

IMG_7191.JPG

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27 minutes ago, mrshaft696 said:

exhaust always pops right as the motor is stopping,

Do you idle the engine down for a minute before shutting it off?

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1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

Do you idle the engine down for a minute before shutting it off?

 

Honestly I have only started and driven it two times, so no.  I assume that will help with the after fire pop.

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What was said above let it idle down for a bit first. Make sure it is not idling to fast also. Some of those had the anti-backfire solenoid on the carb  also. 

Can't  see if that one has one. 

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9 hours ago, Howie said:

What was said above let it idle down for a bit first. Make sure it is not idling to fast also. Some of those had the anti-backfire solenoid on the carb  also. 

Can't  see if that one has one. 

 

These 12hp motors have a flo draft carb & no solenoid, they are a huge "L" shaped unit,.  So I could shut the fuel off and idle down & see how that goes.

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I see it now, those did not have the solenoid on them. Sorry, didn't look at close enough. 

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