charger 8

[Howie 899]

I doubt the whole assembly is available anymore. Tecumseh per se is not around  anymore.         Some parts are available others not.

[JimmyJam 542]

 to 

 

Great find! @ $40 it's a steal. Have fun with your Wheel Horse!

[mrshaft696 131]

13 hours ago, Howie said:

I doubt the whole assembly is available anymore. Tecumseh per se is not around  anymore.         Some parts are available others not.

 

OK I see some on ebay, I have to do some research to see how to test if it is working, I am kind of hesitant to throw parts at it, until im sure it is broken..but the condenser and points are not too expensive.

 

I cant watch the points to see if they are sparking since it is under the flywheel, what is a good way to test?

[Howie 899]

To replace the whole thing and do it right the head must be removed to                                              set the timing correctly. I would replace points and condenser first. I suspect                                     that condenser is weak.

 

[The Gman 476]

Look familiar?

Just started working on the 800 Ranger last week. I also had no spark. Cleaned the points...... set..... and got spark.

A couple of thoughts. Double check you are on the high land of the cam lobe when you set the point gap. Be sure the mag and the condenser leads are NOT touching ground. Everything is very close to insulator leading into the points. Check to see the condenser body is NOT conducting to ground.

The magneto position is vital to timing. If it was moved then the timing is likely off. I see your mag is offset in the slots compared to mine. Not that it's wrong but most rest in the centre. Yes the head will have to come off to set the timing. It's .080" BTDC. Condensers can go weak but they usually short to ground first. Mine is now backfiring. Notice how my woodruf key has sheared a bit. Check that too

Keep us posted.

 

[mrshaft696 131]

4 hours ago, The Gman said:

Look familiar?

Just started working on the 800 Ranger last week. I also had no spark. Cleaned the points...... set..... and got spark.

A couple of thoughts. Double check you are on the high land of the cam lobe when you set the point gap. Be sure the mag and the condenser leads are NOT touching ground. Everything is very close to insulator leading into the points. Check to see the condenser body is NOT conducting to ground.

The magneto position is vital to timing. If it was moved then the timing is likely off. I see your mag is offset in the slots compared to mine. Not that it's wrong but most rest in the centre. Yes the head will have to come off to set the timing. It's .080" BTDC. Condensers can go weak but they usually short to ground first. Mine is now backfiring. Notice how my woodruf key has sheared a bit. Check that too

Keep us posted.

 

 

 

 

 

Ok so I read what you wrote and there are probably a few things I should mention.  So I said when i first tried to start it I could take the spark plug out & see the spark.  It wouldn't start so that is when i pulled the flywheel...

 

Also when i took the flywheel off some of the magnets were loose & I glued them back on & they appear to be installed correct.

 

I noticed like you said that the position of the bolts is off center a bit, I put it back the way I thought it was, how do I tell if it is in the right position?

 

I understand what you mean to check if the condenser is not conducting to ground, but how do i rule that out?

 

I just feel like i screwed something up unintentionally since i went from weak spark to none.  Should i have not unbolted the entire assembly to look at it?

Ordering a point set and condenser now, will do that first.

Edited February 12, 2018 by mrshaft696

[mrshaft696 131]

23 hours ago, Howie said:

That engine is off of a Craftsman product. That 143 number tells you that. There is a list put out by Tecumseh that cross 

references it to the Tecumseh model number. Ok I went and looked it up, it is VM100-157015A. Believe that is a 10hp

engine.Some of the aftermarket points I have had trouble with in getting a spark.from. Part number for the points is

30547A and the condenser is 30548B.

 

 

Im trying to figure out where you got that number from, I can find this cross ref 143.276482 LAV50-62066B   & found this with the parts you stated.....

https://www.partstree.com/parts/tecumseh/engines-vertical-4-cycle-engine/lav50-62066b-tecumseh-4-cycle-vertical-engine/engine-parts-list-1/

 

 

[953 nut 58,485]

26 minutes ago, mrshaft696 said:

if the condenser is not conducting to ground, but how do i rule that out?

For testing you can unhook the condenser and see if you have spark. The condenser is there to protect the points and extend their life. Points will work without a condenser for testing.

[Howie 899]

I have an older Tecumseh parts manual I took it from. That engine is physically smaller than the one you have. How many magnets are in that flywheel?

There is a north and south pole to the magnets and they must be oriented properly. You can kind of see where the bolts clamped down because of the

little lugs on the washers. I do not take those off for that reason. Have changed coils without removing the whole thing. I would suspect the flywheel if

the magnets have come loose. I have fixed a few loose magnets but marked so knew how it came out.

[mrshaft696 131]

49 minutes ago, Howie said:

I have an older Tecumseh parts manual I took it from. That engine is physically smaller than the one you have. How many magnets are in that flywheel?

There is a north and south pole to the magnets and they must be oriented properly. You can kind of see where the bolts clamped down because of the

little lugs on the washers. I do not take those off for that reason. Have changed coils without removing the whole thing. I would suspect the flywheel if

the magnets have come loose. I have fixed a few loose magnets but marked so knew how it came out.

 

 

Ok i think that is one place where i screwed up, haha I suck, I didnt realize they had different poles each one.

 

So when you glue them back in, they should attract the next one according to the web...

 

There are a bunch of magnets, at least 5 or 6.  I have to take it back off tomorrow & remove the ones I glued on and check them all

Edited February 12, 2018 by mrshaft696

[The Gman 476]

and the one before from 953 nut. All flywheel magnets (that I know of) are arranged north to south around the perimeter. Sometimes you need to use a couple of popsicle sticks to keep them equally spaced. Might as well check them all since your at it. As far as the coil goes. Try to back track. Take it off and look very closely at the imprint the star washers made as Howie said. Try to get it as near to what it was. Loose magnets could cause this. You said a weak spark? A weak spark is yellowish. Should be blue.

Sometimes carbon buildup around the insulator cone will provide a low(r) resistance path to the shell.

[mrshaft696 131]

6 minutes ago, The Gman said:

and the one before from 953 nut. All flywheel magnets (that I know of) are arranged north to south around the perimeter. Sometimes you need to use a couple of popsicle sticks to keep them equally spaced. Might as well check them all since your at it. As far as the coil goes. Try to back track. Take it off and look very closely at the imprint the star washers made as Howie said. Try to get it as near to what it was. Loose magnets could cause this. You said a weak spark? A weak spark is yellowish. Should be blue.

Sometimes carbon buildup around the insulator cone will provide a low(r) resistance path to the shell.

 

OK, when I took off the flywheel some of the magnets were loose, not far out of place but loose. I did not check the pole orientation before gluing back in, so that has to  be redone.  I thought the spark looked weak, & it was not starting the engine.

 

Thanks for the tips, and the star washers you are talking about are on the bolts that hold down which part?

[Howie 899]

Yes they are.

[mrshaft696 131]

Ok so I tested the flywheel magnets to make sure they were correctly oriented... this is what I did..Just attached a magned to a piece of wood and went around the flywheel making sure the poles were alternating.

 

 

 

 

So I think I am good there.. I just was checking all the connections etc...The condenser is pretty rusty and ratty looking, but everything looks like it was reinstalled they way it came off.  Ive just been putting the nut back on shaft & turning it to check the point gap., I tested it again still no spark, the spark plug is new, just gonna wait for new parts before i test again.

 

 

Finally made some room in the garage for it, until it gets running....

Edited February 13, 2018 by mrshaft696

[The Gman 476]

Sounds like a plan. 

Mine is running again....... So in the mean time I'll pull my flywheel off and do some coils measurements and other checks to pass your way.

[mrshaft696 131]

1 hour ago, The Gman said:

Sounds like a plan. 

Mine is running again....... So in the mean time I'll pull my flywheel off and do some coils measurements and other checks to pass your way.

 

Ive been re-reading everything & I guess I still don't understand how to tell if the condenser is conducting to ground?  Also the whole assembly should be grounded too from what I have read, and I could possibly disconnect my kill from the ignition for testing.

 

Just it stopped sparking after I took off the armature, the only reason I did it was because I wanted to put some electric tape on wires that were rubbing under the shroud.

 

Also been reading on how to set/check the timing, looks pretty tricky but im sure I can do it, kind of seems like I might have to do it since I messed with the position of the armature.

 

Edited February 13, 2018 by mrshaft696

[The Gman 476]

May have mislead you by saying conducting to ground. Meant that the body of the condenser when free and not touching anything should not have continuity with it's lead wire.

Here is the full service manual for theseveral engines

 

ecv105.pdf

[953 nut 58,485]

Old condensers are prone to breaking down over time. A new one will be inexpensive insurance. 

[Howie 899]

That block is kind of interesting in that it has the mounts for the external solid state coil. Would take the flywheel for that type and I do not know if the size and taper on the

crank is the same size or. Probably opened a can of worms! The stator for the charging part may be different also. I have just not worked on a lot of these Tecumseh engines

to remember which parts it takes.The grounding of the condenser is done thru the screw that holds it to the armature. Also unhook the kill switch wire and try it.

 

 

Edited February 14, 2018 by Howie

[mrshaft696 131]

9 hours ago, Howie said:

That block is kind of interesting in that it has the mounts for the external solid state coil. Would take the flywheel for that type and I do not know if the size and taper on the

crank is the same size or. Probably opened a can of worms! The stator for the charging part may be different also. I have just not worked on a lot of these Tecumseh engines

to remember which parts it takes.The grounding of the condenser is done thru the screw that holds it to the armature. Also unhook the kill switch wire and try it.

 

So I believe in my picture above showing the condenser unbolted and disconnected, the kill wire is other wire attached to the stud coming from the points?

[Howie 899]

Other should be the kill switch wire.

[mrshaft696 131]

bought another one.....maybe to use as parts for this but either way I bought it for 50 bucks, not sure if it runs yet. Has a briggs 12hp.

 

I still haven't got the parts for my motor...anyway some pics....I think this tractor is a little newer than the one I have but very similar.

 

 

[The Gman 476]

Too nice to part out.

An air bag might have saved that steering wheel???

[mrshaft696 131]

29 minutes ago, The Gman said:

Too nice to part out.

An air bag might have saved that steering wheel???

Yeah the steering wheel is pretzeled up!! The dash is cracked you can see in the pic & the paint it really bad & runny.  It looks ok from 15 feet.  I wanted the transaxle & seat mostly. Will see how it goes.

[stevasaurus 23,127]

I don't find the 1-0282 model number in my paper work, but it appears to be like a 1975 Ranger.  Yours looks like it has a manual transmission...might be a Peerless #648 transaxle.    Another nice find.