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Gentlemen, You have been very helpful in the past for answering my questions. I am looking at a used 520H that the serial # info was sanded off to paint the pan. This machine has a PTO to Mule Drive plastic cover, no hour meter, foot pads that are not the fine ribbed type but have the wide grooves with buttons holding them down. The lower control knobs are not round but bulb shaped black plastic. The 3 gauges say Toro on them. The top right gauge is a blank black plastic filler. The steering wheel is a three spoke, heavy on the bottom and the wheel is "fat". The mule drive does not have the heavy curved metal shield over the pulleys-possibly a casualty of replacement at one time. The hood is louvered like my 417.
1994 60" deck.
Very solid, includes chute, correct mule & good belts.
New blades with 2 mowings.
Bearings all good, etc.
I have two other 60's and only one remaining tractor so this is the odd one out.
Paint is faded...I've had it indoors for 3yrs but original owner stored under a car port.
Asking $450obo and I would consider trading toward a cab.
I am willing to meet a buyer.
By MS GENERAL REPAIR
Part 1 of John Deere STX Lawn Tractor Repair Video Series.
The Engine won't crank.
Good morning, I have been a long time reader, but a first time poster.
I have a 1988 Wheel Horse 520HC Tractor. Does not charge, and I have to assume that it is due to the fuse at the front of the engine being blown. However if I replace the fuse that is located at the front of the engine, the wire at the voltage regulator will get hot, start to smoke as it melts the wires insulation.
I have not started testing anything yet, as I just have stumbled upon this issue and was wondering if anyone else has had the same style of problem and what kind of repair did you have to perform.