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tristan watson

Tractor won't start

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My 1973 wheel horse 10 automatic won't start, it's something that has got to do with the electrical system I went and bought a new husky 420cc battery from my local tractor supply so I have plenty of power to crank the engine over I tested the solenoid by connecting it to a battery and it did click and I have started the mower by connecting battery directly to the solenoid and I did run but when I remove my screwdriver from the solenoid leads the engine will just stall out?  and I also bought a brand new starter for it and cleaned all the wires and ground for good contact I took my 5 terminal ignition switch out and had it checked and they said it was good but I'm still thinking that is the issue it's not the original switch it is out of an old polaris colt snowmobile do idk if that matters or not, I have not seen any fuses on this unit either so unless they are hidden somewhere that I can't see them I don't think there are any on this mower and the only safety switch on this is on the manual pto lever at least that is what I think though lol, about a week ago I was plowing my driveway and I parked it for the night got out the next day and turned the engine over and the battery was to low to get it to do anything other than get the solenoid to click and have the starter make some noise attempting to turn over the engine so that's when I went and bought the battery and hooked it on and got nothing and that's where I'm at for the moment if anyone has any thoughts on what could be wrong any help would be appreciated thanks.

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Start with all the connections - including grounds - tight and clean?

 

Double check that you didn't knock the lever / leave the PTO engaged / partially engaged. Yes - it can happen in the middle of the winter when you are not "using" the PTO for mowing etc... (don't ask why I suggest you check...)

 

Should be fuses so trace the wires when you check connections...I have blown two recently...

 

:twocents-02cents:

 

Good Luck!

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I would replace the switch with the correct one for battery ignition.

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Welcome to another Michigander. 

There is 2 switches on your tractor only if you have a pto lever. 1 if you have electric pto. Also as squonk said the correct key switch is a must. You might have to bypass or jumper the foot switch to see if that the problem. This manual might help. You'll get it with all the help here.

 

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7 hours ago, BOB ELLISON said:

Welcome to another Michigander. 

There is 2 switches on your tractor only if you have a pto lever. 1 if you have electric pto. Also as squonk said the correct key switch is a must. You might have to bypass or jumper the foot switch to see if that the problem. This manual might help. You'll get it with all the help here.

 

 

7 hours ago, BOB ELLISON said:

Welcome to another Michigander. 

There is 2 switches on your tractor only if you have a pto lever. 1 if you have electric pto. Also as squonk said the correct key switch is a must. You might have to bypass or jumper the foot switch to see if that the problem. This manual might help. You'll get it with all the help here.

 

I went out and checked the foot pedal safety switch and it was bypassed already there aren't even any wires running to that one anymore so I know that one isn't the problem

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The biggest offender that comes to mind would be the Amp Meter. Power from the battery goes through it on the way to the ignition switch. What indication is it giving when the key is on and lights or electric PTO is on? If it is bad that would explain the engine not running once the jumper is removed. If it is the problem you can  take both wires and connect them bypassing the amp meter.

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953nut I had that same thing on my mind and after looking for the manual I for got to mention that. On my c160 I had a bad amp gage and it would not start until I bypassed it.

@tristan watson  We will keep trying with you until it's fixed.

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Well I tried the bypass and it still won't start, I'm going out tomorrow and going to try and get a new key ignition 

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Well I went out to the toro wheel horse dealer with the original ignition and they couldn't find one with the same letter pattern 😖 they sold me one that they said is for most wheel horse models so I'll try it 

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16 minutes ago, tristan watson said:

they sold me one that they said is for most wheel horse models so I'll try it 

If one of the terminals is labeled "M" don't use it!

Refer to page 7 of the manual to be sure the wires are going where they should.

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953 nut what is wrong with the m the original had one what does it do? The original has s a g m , the newer one doesn't have one it has s b r a i

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That switch is for a battery powered ignition Using it will burn up the magneto instantly!  Looking at the manual above it shows the 12 volt coil on it.

Maybe it did not have the correct switch on it anyhow. I have had people grab one just because it had the five terminals and not checking to see if 

they were the same.

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3 hours ago, tristan watson said:

953 nut what is wrong with the m the original had one what does it do? The original has s a g m , the newer one doesn't have one it has s b r a i

Do you have an ignition coil and points as shown in the owner manual for your 1973 :wh:?

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Yes I have an ignition coil screwed to the front of my engine next to my carb and the point is enclosed on the bottom front of the engine

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13 hours ago, tristan watson said:

The original has s a g m , the newer one doesn't have one it has s b r a i

Like @Howie said, if you had a Magneto your switch should have an "M" terminal. You have a battery ignition system and the "I" terminal is correct. This simple diagram mat be helpful.

5a672a394d795_batteryignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.00442d1568be28499ebdef9601a30fb9.jpg

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Ok I figured out that when I unhooked the older solenoid to have tested and when I recommend it I didn't hook the ignition with to the right pole and then was not getting any power to it to turn over the starter 

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