MainelyWheelhorse 1,322 #23801 Posted June 3 First after work I took the front angled bracket off the C 141. I had to take the hood, and its bracket off, and the front axle, but I eventually got it. I also bolted the engine to the frame so its 100+ pound self, wouldn’t squash me when putting the new drive pulley on. ‘I got some Hydro parts from @ebinmaine so I started to figure out where they went. I eventually figured out where they went with EB’s help. I painted the drive pulley for the C141 and tried a trick where you put grease where you don’t want paint to go it worked kinda well. Just a little touch up once I wiped off the grease and the pulley should work well. 6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,739 #23802 Posted June 3 Started assembling the parts to swap over to 5 lug trailer hubs. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 895 #23803 Posted June 3 hi oldworkhorse, where did you get the muffler shields for the stacks? they look great! regards mike 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,200 #23804 Posted June 3 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Started assembling the parts to swap over to 5 lug trailer hubs. Why did you buy the spindles? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,200 #23805 Posted June 3 4 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: First after work I took the front angled bracket off the C 141. I had to take the hood, and its bracket off, and the front axle, but I eventually got it. I also bolted the engine to the frame so its 100+ pound self, wouldn’t squash me when putting the new drive pulley on. ‘I got some Hydro parts from @ebinmaine so I started to figure out where they went. I eventually figured out where they went with EB’s help. I painted the drive pulley for the C141 and tried a trick where you put grease where you don’t want paint to go it worked kinda well. Just a little touch up once I wiped off the grease and the pulley should work well. That engine looks familiar. FYI, it's going to need a fuel pump. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,739 #23806 Posted June 3 3 hours ago, Bill D said: Why did you buy the spindles? The Wheelhorse spindles are the 1" taller pieces from 300 Series. I use those for extra ground clearance on our rough terrain. The trailer spindles I've had for several years. I bought those before I read that a hub could be held on using spacers or even use a bearing set with 3/4" I.D. I have another setup with identical parts to modify one more tractor. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 1,322 #23807 Posted June 3 7 hours ago, Bill D said: That engine looks familiar. FYI, it's going to need a fuel pump. @Bill D Ok, thanks for the info. I’ve got a good one on my spare M12 I could swap. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,547 #23808 Posted June 3 15 hours ago, OldWorkHorse said: Strange My parts manual for KT Series 2 doesn't show this spec number. Went to the Rehlko (that is what Kohler calls it self now) site that shows the Spec number as being made for Toro but the no longer seems to show parts breakouts for KT series engines. They still do parts break out for K singles. Parts Tree doesn't recognize the Spec number either.. Based on previous searches the thrust bearing was very rarely used in KTs and Magnum twins. I know of no way to tell from an external look. Guess you better stick with electric PTO 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,547 #23809 Posted June 3 15 hours ago, OldWorkHorse said: Strange My parts manual for KT Series 2 doesn't show this spec number. Went to the Rehlko (that is what Kohler calls it self now) site that shows the Spec number as being made for Toro but the no longer seems to show parts breakouts for KT series engines. They still do parts break out for K singles. Parts Tree doesn't recognize the Spec number either.. Based on previous searches the thrust bearing was very rarely used in KTs and Magnum twins. I know of no way to tell from an external look. Guess you better stick with electric PTO 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldWorkHorse 3,080 #23810 Posted June 3 55 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Strange My parts manual for KT Series 2 doesn't show this spec number. Went to the Rehlko (that is what Kohler calls it self now) site that shows the Spec number as being made for Toro but the no longer seems to show parts breakouts for KT series engines. They still do parts break out for K singles. Parts Tree doesn't recognize the Spec number either.. Based on previous searches the thrust bearing was very rarely used in KTs and Magnum twins. I know of no way to tell from an external look. Guess you better stick with electric PTO Thank you. Dnt have to much info other than it came out of a toro groundsmaster 117. Dose this number give you any info? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,547 #23811 Posted June 3 (edited) 29 minutes ago, OldWorkHorse said: Thank you. Dnt have to much info other than it came out of a toro groundsmaster 117. Dose this number give you any info? Again not in my old parts manual however Rehlko shows it as made for Wheel Horse ( no parts listing however) Since it was a WH spec I would be pretty sure it has the thrust bearing EDIT Parts tree does show this one and it has the Thrust bearing (#28) Edited June 3 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thetbone 58 #23812 Posted June 3 Cleaning the Carb, I do have a new one on order. Hoping this is the problem with not running great. I pulled the top off last night, will clean it today. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,739 #23813 Posted June 3 33 minutes ago, Thetbone said: Hoping this is the problem with not running great I'm no expert on these Onan engines. I do understand that the intake manifold itself can be an issue. Something to check. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,200 #23814 Posted June 3 (edited) 1 hour ago, Thetbone said: Cleaning the Carb, I do have a new one on order. Hoping this is the problem with not running great. I pulled the top off last night, will clean it today. Check compression on both cylinders as well. You may have lost a cylinder. If that's good replace all the fuel line between filter and carb in case it's breaking down and sending pieces of rubber into the carb. One of the engine tins can also cut into the intake manifold causing a leak. Check for missing Welch plugs too. Removing the engine tin over the front exhaust will also allow access to the bowl drain and allow removal of the main jet for a more thorough cleaning. I prefer to fix original carbs before replacing with Chinese carbs when possible. Edited June 3 by Bill D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 261 #23815 Posted June 3 29 minutes ago, Bill D said: Check compression on both cylinders as well. You may have lost a cylinder. If that's good replace all the fuel line between filter and carb in case it's breaking down and sending pieces of rubber into the carb. One of the engine tins can also cut into the intake manifold causing a leak. Check for missing Welch plugs too. Removing the engine tin over the front exhaust will also allow access to the bowl drain and allow removal of the main jet for a more thorough cleaning. I prefer to fix original carbs before replacing with Chinese carbs when possible. And don't drop the needle valve down the carb when you remove the floats!! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thetbone 58 #23816 Posted June 3 Good stuff, I will do so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 1,322 #23817 Posted June 3 Today I capped off the hose fittings swapped the caps, springs and cones on the C141 touched up it’s drive pulley and pressure washed it and everything else with wheels and a motor used in spring/summer. It was nice enough out to be Wash Day. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,130 #23818 Posted June 4 Finally got the extended seat pan painted for the winter xi project. I don't like shooting metal below 70 and to cheap to turn on heat. lol 12 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,111 #23819 Posted June 4 (edited) On 6/3/2025 at 4:37 AM, ebinmaine said: The Wheelhorse spindles are the 1" taller pieces from 300 Series. I use those for extra ground clearance on our rough terrain. The trailer spindles I've had for several years. I bought those before I read that a hub could be held on using spacers or even use a bearing set with 3/4" I.D. I have another setup with identical parts to modify one more tractor. On 6/2/2025 at 8:59 PM, ebinmaine said: Started assembling the parts to swap over to 5 lug trailer hubs. You need to reinforce the spindles. Edited June 4 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,739 #23820 Posted June 4 12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: You need to reinforce the spindles. For a heavy load, yes. I've had the stock spindles on Cinnamon Horse for several years. The chipper weighs quite a bit. They've been fine ... so far .... I do keep a close eye on them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thetbone 58 #23821 Posted June 5 I did not drop the pin into the carb!!! Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this, just adding to what I am doing. I have a question for the folks that know there stuff, how do I remove the rest of the carb, there are 2 bolts underneath, any easy way to get to them? Do I need to do that based on the pictures? Thanks. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,825 #23822 Posted June 5 Getting the 8” HD spindles and HD Rims ready for paint. They cleaned up really nicely, still need to sand, prime and paint. Plan is to put the first coat or so of paint on the rims let it dry, mount the tires then do the card trick and put on the final coat to cover any scrapes from putting the tires on. What silver paint are we all using for wheels now a-days? 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,622 #23823 Posted June 5 1 hour ago, Thetbone said: he rest of the carb, there are 2 bolts underneath, any easy way to get to them? If memory serves, the manifold has to come off with the carb attached. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 261 #23824 Posted June 5 33 minutes ago, Handy Don said: If memory serves, the manifold has to come off with the carb attached. Yup! Manifold off first, then you can access the carb mounting bolts. Unfortunately, you also have to remove the exhaust before you can remove the inlet manifold.....assuming it's not seized in position like mine.....😬 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thetbone 58 #23825 Posted June 5 Ah OK, glad I asked, love this forum, thanks guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites