What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[sqrlgtr 1,572]

Put juice to my new headlights on 1257 today. Halogen bulbs and pretty bright, 2nd pic is in shop and pitch dark. Dont remember what the watts are. Thought about going with led bulbs but IDK if it would  be worth the extra coin.

[kpinnc 16,332]

54 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

Thought about going with led bulbs but IDK if it would  be worth the extra coin.

 

I'm a huge fan of LEDs. That being said, so long as the regular bulbs don't over tax your charging system- I'd just use them as they are. They look plenty bright enough. 

[Blue Chips 460]

1 hour ago, ranger said:

Yes, that’s what I was getting at, having solid contact across the hub flange and puller faces, so when all wheel bolts? are tight, there is no gap between the hub and puller. The hub flange then becomes effectively much more rigid. A spacer to match his puller, but bored to clear the hub spigot would work, as he already has the puller made, but as you say, if you were building one from scratch, then your suggestion, in my opinion, would be the way to go.

 

Yeah, I think that redoing it from scratch is the way to go, since adding a spacer might make the puller plate too thick to use with a hub that has been converted to studs, unless I cut some countersinks. I'm up to my elbows with projects at the moment, but if I find some breathing room I'll see if I can crank one out some evening. Thanks for your input.

 

 

Edited December 31, 2025 by Blue Chips

[lynnmor 8,306]

7 hours ago, Red Stallion said:

Thanks, but looks like its all sold out!

I'll keep am eye.on them in case the lack of stock is temporary.  But frieghy to Australia is gping to kill me again!

 

There are a number of companies that make valve seats, you will need someone experienced in installing the seats and they will know what is available.   The block will need to be trued on the diameter and made flat on the bottom of the seat area.  Then a seat will need to be fitted so that it has at least .0055" press fit.  In order to install the seat the block will be heated (I use a heat gun) and the seat cooled (I use denatured alcohol and dry ice).  I also have an installation tool to hold the seat while driving it in.  The installation tool should be cooled along with the seat so that the seat will stay as cold as possible.  You need to work fast because the seat is quickly being heated by the block, with luck the seat will go in with one light tap of a mallet.  Onan had tools in their service kit but they are nearly impossible to find, I made my own.  The last tool you should have is a staking tool that has an angle that upsets a small amount of aluminum over the edge of the seat, the seat should have a small chamfered corner to accept the upset.  Standard valve grinding procedures are then done to have the proper seat diameters and angles.  The Onan Service Manual is what you need.

[Racinbob 12,460]

4 hours ago, Blue Chips said:

 

Yeah, I think that redoing it from scratch is the way to go, since adding a spacer might make the puller plate too thick to use with a hub that has been converted to studs, unless I cut some countersinks. I'm up to my elbows with projects at the moment, but if I find some breathing room I'll see if I can crank one out some evening. Thanks for your input.

 

 

This is what I did. Larger diameter plates with the five bolts to the outside of the hub would let it work with studs but just back them out if you need to remove the hub. I've got another blank plate to make a backer that can fit behind the entire hub but I haven't needed that so it's not drilled out. I will if the need arises or I just feel like it. Sometimes there isn’t the clearance between the hub and tranny case.