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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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GAJoe

I got my other tire mounted on Friday and went to put it back on but noticed a bad wheel bearing. I did a search and found the XiKe bearings that several use from Amazon and got a four pack on order. Yesterday when I checked the tracking they were due to arrive today on Sunday so I got prepared to remove and replace the seals to do a grease swap-out with Lucas Red that I had in a gun. (Saving the green for mower deck spindles and mule bearings.) This was my first time removing the seals and cleaning the cheap grease out. It wasn't difficult just time consuming; but should pay off in the long run.20230122_133058.jpg.87c0f082ede0c78d3a0e12a85c435950.jpg  20230122_142341.jpg.47c12229f68536aeeb058516847ad341.jpg

 

Everything was going well on schedule until I went to put the new bearings in. The outboard went in about half way with just a tap or two to have it set in the hub but the inboard was loose in the hub. I don't know if the original was large of if I didn't progress in small enough increments when I knocked it out. Regardless I needed to find a way to reduce the hub diameter so that the outer race would snug up and stop spinning freely. I could see the hub around the shoulder of the bearing on this side by a few thousandths. I measured and it was around 1.508" outer diameter. I needed a swaging tool that would squeeze it to something close to 1.500". Then I remembered that the main rear axle shaft roller bearing was about what I needed. I located my old bad bearing and found that one inside diameter was champhered at a 45 and the other was rounded nicely. But how would I maintain the axle bearing centered around the shoulder of the new bearing to swage the hub evenly and not make a mess of it. I cut up an aluminum soft drink can into a few 1/4" strips that fit nicely inside the axle bearing inside diameter and around the new wheel bearing shoulder. It took three layers to get rid of the slop and hold things in place. I rested the opposite bearing outer shoulder on my big aluminum cylinder (Resting on plywood on the basement floor not the can of grease.) so that the inner race wouldn't take any of the force to swage the hub.

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I laid a heavy plate of steel on the old axle bearing and smacked it sharply with a two pound hammer. When I lifted the plate to my delight the axle bearing was driven down onto the wheel hub. I got the axle bearing removed and the wheel bearing still had a little play in it so I repeated the process but now didn't need the shimming to keep the axle bearing centered. This time the wheel hub was swaged firmly around the wheel bearing.:D

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The old axle bearing will go into my growing collection of special improvised WH tools.

Edited by GAJoe
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Chestnut

Winter has finally arrived in this part of Maine. We had a few storms earlier but I wasn't able to get the WH out to blow snow. I thought I was ready when I moved it into winter shed, but when I went to start it in December I got a handful of gas from the two year old Chinese primer bulb.Then the nipple snapped off the plastic fuel pump (same origin, same vintage). Maybe someday I'll learn. Anyway, the new Facet electric pump was ready to go for the most recent couple of storms. Wiring is still kind of temporary. I wired the pump through a rocker switch the PO installed for headlights. I want to wire through the key/ignition switch but hesitated to hack into the already sketchy wiring. Facet suggested wiring through the oil pressure switch. I was thinking of wiring it through the unused terminal on the 520-H key switch. The wiring diagram shows it should be life in the "run" position. Any suggestions?

Also got out for several walks. About time for snowshoes, but my friend is impatient as I fumble with the camera.

 

Facet.jpeg

garden shed.jpeg

Tell me when you're done.jpeg

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Lee1977

I wired my 520 through the unused R Terminal on the key switch for the hot wire.  The ground wire to a toggle switch then to ground. I can used the toggle to run the carb. dry.

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Chestnut
21 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

The ground wire to a toggle switch then to ground. I can used the toggle to run the carb. dry.

Thanks.  I like the idea of the toggle on the ground to let the bowl run dry.

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KrazeyOlDave

Oops

1CC75B92-BFAD-42D1-8F1E-4D0341C72BA4.jpeg

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KrazeyOlDave
On 1/26/2023 at 9:32 AM, pfrederi said:

 

 

That tire looks a bit narrow for that wheel.

Nah, it’s perfect 

FBF57B6A-E329-498A-B11A-4D4CB879ADD3.jpeg

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GAJoe
22 hours ago, GAJoe said:

 

I made some new tie rods with grade 7B all-thread in stainless tubing that I had horded.  20230126_205443.jpg.74d414db3fdc490242338d9da8c8fa99.jpg 

I got the tie rods mounted and torqued. Did the greasing of the spindles while up in the air. Greased the steering shaft and the front end pivot.

Hopefully my input seal and belt will get here from Wheel Horse Parts and More so I can get everything back together finally. Got my bearings and seals for the mower deck spindles on order.

Edited by GAJoe
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Heatingman

My heart sank a little about 30 minutes ago, mid plow lost my ability to change gears. Was close to the garage, so I pushed my little B80 back in.

 

All kind of worst case scenario ideas where running through my mind. 

 

Turned out the locking nut for allen screw that holds the gear shifter in place worked loose. 
 

Was able to get it back and going without too much trouble.


Guess I should probably locktite that nut. 
 

Maybe tomorrow. Gotta finish plowing. 

 

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