What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[Pullstart 59,744]

16 hours ago, David_JH said:

Just pulled the the straight pipe off of my GT-1100 and replaced it with the stock muffler (certain members of my household didn't like how loud it was).

 

 to RedSquare!

 

I don’t see what’s wrong with that pipe!

 

 

[Gregor 4,838]

I have read, and heard differing opinions about running a str8 pipe. Some claim it's hard on a small engine. It needs a muffler. Others say it's no problem. Opinions?  I like the sound of yours, and no more than my tractors run, the noise would not be a problem.

[Tractorhead 8,611]

2 hours ago, Gregor said:

As far as batteries go, it seems they are not all created equal. Several weeks ago, I bought a Continental brand 12V, 230CCR, garden tractor battery. I just wanted a small battery on my work bench for testing purposes. I rebuilt a Lawn Boy electric starter, and wanted to test it. Hooked up the battery. It would spin, but it was never going to start a motor. I think the battery was at 12.8V at the time. I also have a battery for a little ride on toy the grand kids use when they are here. I tried that battery. It's much smaller than the Continental battery, and I don't remember the voltage, but it spun that little starter right over. So it seems 12V isn't always equal, when it comes to batteries. Or maybe I got a dud.

 

Depending on the max. Load (CCA) the battery can support, this are the most „tuned“ Values on Battery Manufacturer.

A standart Ammeter like in the horses sometimes built in, doen‘t show the currentdraw while Starting.

This load will burn them up quickly.

 

They just show the electrical loads about charging / discharging without the Starter.

 

To solve such issues, i use my clamp Ammeter ( up to 600A) and check what current is droped while starting.

If i can just test it at a Warm Day i use tripple of that Value for a usable start in Winter.

 

The Voltage while starting give you the better response oft the ability, if this battery was able to Start an Engine even in Cold envoirement.  While starting the Voltage never should drop the 11,8V in cold condition ( below 30F), 

on warm Day‘s it should not drop the 12,2V.

Unloaded Battery Voltage tells you nothing about the Voltage drop under heavy Load.

CCA will just be an indicator, but this Values sometimes is „a little tuned“ for better salary.

Even the Continousely Load will be given with different Values, one for salary at 1A/h

one with iso norm 20A/h load.

 

That are my experiences.

[Gregor 4,838]

6 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

To solve such issues, i use my clamp Ammeter ( up to 600A) and check what current is droped while starting.

You use this clamp meter on a DC line?

 

[Pullstart 59,744]

48 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I have read, and heard differing opinions about running a str8 pipe. Some claim it's hard on a small engine. It needs a muffler. Others say it's no problem. Opinions?  I like the sound of yours, and no more than my tractors run, the noise would not be a problem.

In person, this is deafening.  I don’t recommend it for a 16/single.  It’ll change once I pull that engine off “Chief” and stick it in a plow mule.  

If you like the short look of exhaust, you could try the convoluted washer trick I did with my “Steve” exhaust build...  These videos are before I started editing and crunching videos together.  My apologies for straight cut videos...

 

 

 

 

 

 

[David_JH 23]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

 to RedSquare!

 

I don’t see what’s wrong with that pipe!

 

 

How do you make it spit out fire like that? Mine would shoot out a little flame every once in a while but not as much as that one.

[Pullstart 59,744]

7 minutes ago, David_JH said:

How do you make it spit out fire like that? Mine would shoot out a little flame every once in a while but not as much as that one.

Just chance.  Maybe the exhaust valve is carboned up, letting combustion through?  Maybe it’s a bit late timing where combustion isn’t finishe before the exhaust opens?  

[lynnmor 6,796]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I have read, and heard differing opinions about running a str8 pipe. Some claim it's hard on a small engine. It needs a muffler. Others say it's no problem. Opinions?  I like the sound of yours, and no more than my tractors run, the noise would not be a problem.

Years ago it was believed that a short and open pipe caused valve warping when shut down hot and cold air went in.  I don't know if that was ever proven.

[Gregor 4,838]

4 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

and cold air went in. 

I would think that by the time that air got through that pipe, it would be warmed up considerably. Unless there was no pipe at all.

[lynnmor 6,796]

7 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I would think that by the time that air got through that pipe, it would be warmed up considerably. Unless there was no pipe at all.

To add to the cold air theory, exhaust pulses travel rapidly and a negative pressure follows a positive pressure each cycle.  Again, it is only an old theory but some believed that the temperature change happened even before the engine stopped.

 

I did some racing motorcycle work in a previous century.  One way to determine the best length of an exhaust pipe was to brush a line of cheap latex paint on the pipe and make a full throttle run, then cut the pipe where the burned and not burned paint met.   Of course a relatively slow turning Kohler might need a pipe that wraps around the tractor twice.

[ebinmaine 63,214]

I've heard about the mufflers being needed or a certain amount of back pressure being needed on larger displacement engines and RPM above 3000 or 4000.

Answers to that might be taken off of the internets. 

 

I'm curious to see if there's a legit reason not to do so on a medium to low RPM small engine.....

[peter lena 8,072]

tech-a-maticdropped two plows today , heating up mower deck in the sun , after check over to install , do that tomorrow and install the other deck , then , do a rotella o/c , 30 wt  on the last one before hooking up deck. upper 60,s today , nice warming sun . long range weather calls for a much hotter longer summer , hope we get some rain with that heat , pete 

[peter lena 8,072]

tech-a-matic, referring to your  stuck amp gauge , having had a similar problem , found that enhancing the harness ground points  , as well as the tin mounted rectifier , with better grounding and dielectric grease at every connection point brought everything back on line. also added a ground cable from the side of battery ground rail to corner of engine block / frame, that enhanced all grounding related to back of dash area. pete 

[Lee1977 6,221]

I used three washers spaced with drilled out 1/4" nuts. A 1" and two 3/4" it got rid of the high irritating sound.

 

 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 59,744]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I've heard about the mufflers being needed or a certain amount of back pressure being needed on larger displacement engines and RPM above 3000 or 4000.

Answers to that might be taken off of the internets. 

 

I'm curious to see if there's a legit reason not to do so on a medium to low RPM small engine.....

 @Greentored had an exhaust build a while back that was designed for some good power I think.  Maybe he can shed some light on our dark brains?

[lynnmor 6,796]

1 hour ago, Lee1977 said:

I used three washers spaced with drilled out 1/4" nuts. A 1" and two 3/4" it got rid of the high irritating sound.

 

 

 

Kinda like a poor mans SuperTrapp.

[Greentored 3,201]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

 @Greentored had an exhaust build a while back that was designed for some good power I think.  Maybe he can shed some light on our dark brains?

I will skip the technical mumbo jumbo- it can get extreme, but tuning an exhaust is all about pressure waves. Basically- when the valve opens, a 'freight train' of air is sent rushing away from the valve and down a length of pipe, and when the valve slams shut, that freight train is still under motion, creating a vacuum at the valve. If the pipe length is tuned so that freight train is still inside the pipe when the exhaust valve opens again, it will help pull the next 'train' of dead gases out of the cylinder, picture train #1 hooked up to train #2 with a huge elastic strap and taking off. This is also where camshaft/valve overlap comes in- if both valves are open at this time, this 'train' helps pull the fresh intake air/fuel into the cylinder.  To add MORE confusion, this same 'freight train' scenario can be used on the intake side, smashing two trains together to force mixture into the cylinder. Due to the extreme length of the pipes needed in most cases to accomplish this, there is a 'second wave', 'third wave', etc..that will allow shorter lengths and some effect. To take advantage of the first wave on our little one lungers running at 3600rpm, the intake and exhaust would need to be over 5 feet long!!  ok, gonna stop there ha.

Anyhow- VERY basically speaking, the longer the intake and exhaust and smaller diameter pipe, the better for torque and low rpms, and the shorter/larger diameter the better for high rpm power....and if you need to run a muffler, get that thing as far away from the exhaust valve as possible, to at least get a LITTLE help from a pipe.

That is what the pipe on Hoss was built for. Plans were to wrap a pipe all the way down the side, back to the front, and attach the muffler, but in the end I'd still have basically NO intake manifold length....and this is a stinkin worker, not a record attempt   Having at least a foot of pipe between the valve and muffler just makes me feel better.

 

 

Edited March 25, 2021 by Greentored

[Tractorhead 8,611]

8 hours ago, Gregor said:

You use this clamp meter on a DC line?

 

Yes, the Clamp Ammeters for DC are bit more expensive that the plain cheap AC Ammeters but not much.

 

i payed for mine 50$ that is for AC and DC and accurate enough for my Needs,

the cheapest Clap ammeters only for AC starts at 20$.

 

so not a  unrealistic pricerange.

 

[Tractorhead 8,611]

On 3/24/2021 at 7:31 PM, D_Mac said:

Went to my cousins and he welded up the broken drag bar on one of the trailers I picked up last week. Its a nice trailer. Heavy duty and made of composite decking so it wont rot. Having an issue with a hitch on the 857. It has a slot hitch on it. I do not plan on removing the plow so with the plow lifted the hitch points up. I have the trailer hooked on with a chain until I can figure something else out....... Any ideas ????

 

 

Here the promised Pict‘s of my Rear end ( oh, sorry the tracta‘s not 😂

 

 

I used a 3/4“ Bolt got it from a local Agri Dealer.

 

 

That is normally used on bigger three point Attachements.

That idea comes from @Stormin but i liked it and copied it.

 

 

With that Bolt i be able to mount both systems at once and they be quickly removed if needed.

 

 

In the middle section i drilled a hole threaded and mount a zerk fitting, for regular Service purposes.

 

 

Even after Winter all is working smoothly and easy.

 

 

 

That spacers on the outside are normally inside the trailer hitch.

I use them as centering points. 

Hope that helps

 

Edited March 25, 2021 by Tractorhead

[Tractorhead 8,611]

No Belts arrived today, so i tried a other rework with a followed Testride.

 

 

 

Btw @ebinmaine i stick it with a selant, what can be easily removed.

Look that nice Tacho, here in life speed.

 

adjusted the Engine little up to 4000RPM.

funny Ride.

 

[953 nut 51,775]

11 hours ago, Gregor said:

You use this clamp meter on a DC line?

 

The output from the R/R on a Kohler or other engine is pulsating DC. The meter doesn't know the difference. If there is a single diode like some of the later engines use the reading may not be as accurate. 

[TonyToro 1,034]

On 3/23/2021 at 5:05 PM, Herder said:

Finished up the tiller.  I got the rear lift kit form Wheel Horse Parts And More yesterday and installed it.  Thank you Lowell. 

Chopped up some dirt, she did an excellent job. 

 

Awesome! That’s what my son wants us to do this weekend. Does that lift arm stay in after the tiller is removed? The tractor we are using also is a snowblower.

[Tuneup 1,416]

OK people, we're almost there. Who will be the first to hit page 400? Limited today to filling the tanks on the 516H and C-125 so I could fill the cans before the storm. 2" of rain and still pouring.

Edited March 26, 2021 by Tuneup

[Oldskool 6,582]

Did a little work on the engine pulley adapter for the 16hp Briggs this afternoon.  Hoping to get the belt length tomorrow and order it for Saturday.

[ebinmaine 63,214]

I stopped at the USPS and tossed a box o' Horse parts over the counter.