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ronhatch

STEERING REDUCTION QUESTION

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  Even after installing thrust ball bearings in my front spindles, putting 20 PSI in the front tires

and replacing the 13" steering wheel with a 15" unit, my C-101 is still hard to turn.  What does the steering reduction unit look like and can it be installed on my tractor?   Pictures would be greatly appreciated.     Thanks, Ron

Edited by ronhatch

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Can be installed on most any long frame. What tractor do you have..   Sorry, I see it's a C101

Edited by roadapples

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I would say there is something still in a bind. Maybe put the front end up on stands then try to track down where it's at.

 

Edited by RandyLittrell
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:text-yeahthat: There's no reason it should steer hard if everything is right. It could be as simple as the alignment. When I got my 'B'-160 back it steered like a dump truck without power steering. A tie rod end had been replaced and it was way off. I adjusted it and all's well....with a 13" wheel. :)

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It has 4 new tie rod ends, a small amount of toe in and all is well greased. It seems to get harder the sharper I turn. The next time I have the deck off, I'll increase the steering gear clearance a little and see if that helps.

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1 hour ago, ronhatch said:

It has 4 new tie rod ends, a small amount of toe in and all is well greased. It seems to get harder the sharper I turn. The next time I have the deck off, I'll increase the steering gear clearance a little and see if that helps.

 

That might be it, the most wear is in the middle of the travel, so adjust near the ends.

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@ronhatch Some times it just the the nature of the unit. I have a C-120 I can turn with one finger . Then I have a 310-8 that I have installed thrust bearings cleaned and re greased everything possible including the pin holding the axle ( removed and inspected no problem) checked wheel bearings run 20lbs air in each tire . Check fan gear , steering wheel shaft ,etc. It drives like a tank without a deck installed. 

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Have had a few that did this. Most of the time it was the steering gear mashed to tight to the fan gear but had one that drove me nuts. It turned out to be the axle and spindles were worn. The spindles were riding in the axle crooked and only contacting the axle on the top and bottom causing much more friction. The fix was, drill out the axle holes to 7/8" with a 7/8" construction reamer, sleeve the hole with a bronze bushing 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD and replace the spindles.

Sorry for the crappy quick drawing but you should see the point. Hopefully it's just the steering gears

 

spindle.jpg.13ea24439a9d6a267cce44b9f21dd19e.jpg

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This has been discussed a few times here and there have been some great answers.This time included.One thing not mentioned this time around is to raise the front end so that the wheels are off the ground and then grease.This allows grease get to the areas that are under the greatest load.If this doesn't help then all of the answers here can help.

I have more than a few WHs and each takes a different effort to steer.On the non gear reduction setups a 15" wheel is preferred but I have a 13" on a tiller equipped 101 and it is easy to steer whether the tiller is on or not.As Jim Winder says each one is different.It may be useful if you could compare your tractor to another.Luck.JAinVA

Edited by JAinVA
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I neglected to answer your question about adapting a gear reduction to your 101.It is pretty much a bolt on.Really! If you use a thirty year old GT then you have the skills to put a gear reduction on.The only draw back is the cost and if you can solve the tight steering issue then it may not be worth the effort.

Edited by JAinVA
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JAinVA is right, the cost can climb real quick in trying to obtain reduction parts. I would do what wallfish suggested. First check that fan gear for to tight on the far left then right. Make sure that fan gear is staying centered in the steering block and not getting pushed over because of the lower bushing it rides in is too wore. Then check what was mentioned. Check axel and spindle for bad wear. Something is a miss somewhere. 

Steering reduction is nice, but parts are getting harder and harder to fine. 

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I agree on the fan gear - they can easily wear the center first and get too tight on the ends . Don't rule out hardened grease either - it can create a lot more drag than you'd think on these components . Those base blocks wear the most on the older models it seems and once the hole is egged it becomes a problem - I have sleeved several but getting that angle correct on a blind hole isn't easy . Easiest ones of mine to steer have all had full liner bushings installed on the spindles in the front axle - it seems to make the most difference . Greasing the front end by picking it up by the frame helps tremendously - the grease does not flow easily downward nor to the back side of the spindle holes in that front axle and it almost should have a second and maybe lower zerk fitting on the rear side .

 

Sarge

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