Favorite WH Modifications

[Ed Kennell 43,839]

9 minutes ago, mikeeyre74 said:

How did you attach the end of that foot control rod setup there to the hand control? I can't quite make it out in the picture.... ?

I use a 3/8" pipe nipple that slides down over the vertical hand lever.   I cut a slot to clear the horizontal  lever and lock it with a pipe cap that is drilled for the foot control lever.

 

 

 

[mikeeyre74 289]

And for reverse you just slip a toe 

Underneath the pedal and pull back, like upshifting on a motorcycle?

[RandyLittrell 3,942]

This is a great thread, all the cool stuff in one spot! I see some things that are going on my 301-8!

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[SylvanLakeWH 29,914]

3 hours ago, Lane Ranger said:

 

 

Front ball hitch on  314-8 and B-80 Wheel Horses

 

 

I have been wanting a front hitch that allows me to keep the mule drive on!!!

 

Any design / close up pics of how it's attached? That is exactly what I need (er want)...

 

[Lane Ranger 11,681]

Sold on Ebay but you need to give  exact info on your model tractor to the seller and maker.

 

 

Here are some more pics

 

First version has more of a goose neck that I put on my 314.   It would not clear B-80  hood with mule drive.  

 

The second version has  more of a flat line design to clear the B-80 hood  for opening to refilling the gas tank and allow the  mower deck mule drive to  lock in place.

 

Both  front attach hitches  have the same  up front deign  with a hex bolt  holding up the front in center and the U shaped plates on each side of the hitch clearing but allowing the mule drive to fully operate in place.

 

 

There is nothing like operating a front hitch to haul thinks around.

 

 

There were both made by Leonard Cooke of Rhode island   who makes and sells them online on Ebay.  He will work with you on any issue you may have with your hitch purchased based on my experience.

 

[DennisThornton 4,772]

12 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

@DennisThornton, the embossing/engraving was done with a C.A.D. program then transferred to a C.N.C. milling machine where I used a center drill or carbide spade bit to actually do the recessed engraving, here's a picture of the D.R.O. on the mill I did for the wife and I, Jeff. @Lane Ranger that drawbar you made for the 953 looks like the old Farmall/ Allis Chalmers style from the 50s cool MOD...

Well they are incredible!

[Ed Kennell 43,839]

12 hours ago, mikeeyre74 said:

And for reverse you just slip a toe 

Underneath the pedal and pull back, like upshifting on a motorcycle?

Actually Mike,   I have a spring and/or a pneumatic cylinder that pulls the pedal up directly into reverse.   For safety reasons, I do not recommend this arrangement to anyone.

But for me, It works.   To start the engine, the left  brake pedal must be pushed, which  moves the motion lever to neutral making the neutral safety switch allowing the engine to start.

Then the motion is  controlled with the right pedal....push down for forward and release pedal up for reverse.    With very little practice, I can completely control F/N/R with the pedal.

If there is any concern or indecision, simply push the left neutral/brake pedal and the tractor stops.  I find  I  still use the hand lever when I am turned in the seat to back up to an implement or into a tight space.    I have the same arrangement on all my hydros and find it to be very efficient for plowing and blowing snow in the half dozen confined small driveways that I clear.

For the system to work, you must also alter the console cover to a straight slot so the motion lever moves in one plane front to rear.  I also relocate the spring that normally pulls the motion lever to the left into the neutral lock position so it now pulls the lever to the rear into reverse.      Not recommending..... be your own judge of your abilities.

[SylvanLakeWH 29,914]

On June 15, 2017 at 10:30 PM, cleat said:

 

Front hitch made from old mule drive.

 

NICE WORK!

Is that 2" tube just welded to the front of the mule drive? No additional bracing in the back? I'm thinking that I could do the same and maintain functionality of the mule drive adjuster knob so I can have the hitch mounted to a standard mule drive while the mule drive does its mowing duties as well... Thoughts?

[cleat 8,132]

6 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

NICE WORK!

Is that 2" tube just welded to the front of the mule drive? No additional bracing in the back? I'm thinking that I could do the same and maintain functionality of the mule drive adjuster knob so I can have the hitch mounted to a standard mule drive while the mule drive does its mowing duties as well... Thoughts?

There is more to the back.

A piece of angle iron and a couple of hooks.

 

Here are the plans.

Wheel Horse measurements for front hitch.pdf

Wheel horse parts list for front hitch.pdf

 

Cleat

[SylvanLakeWH 29,914]

49 minutes ago, cleat said:

There is more to the back.

A piece of angle iron and a couple of hooks.

 

Here are the plans.

Wheel Horse measurements for front hitch.pdf

Wheel horse parts list for front hitch.pdf

 

Cleat

 

OK - Thanks! I appreciate the details!

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Here is what I did for the the front hitch. It mounts to the front tach a matic and the frame. It also allows me to use the mule drive for the mower at the same time. By having the setup to the side of the mule drive it still allows pulley adjustment without moving the hitch up or down.  I use the hole up front for a hitch balls or a threaded rod with small weights. The platform I have used for weights to keep the front end down when I move my trailer around the yard.

 

 

The other modification I did is add an alternator GM SI10 alternator to the electrical system possibly to use a winch in the future or linear actuator or other high  current draws. 

Edited June 20, 2017 by mmmmmdonuts
Added a sentence

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,362]

I like the alternator idea, but I am clueless on how to hook one up to my tractor.

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

8 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

I like the alternator idea, but I am clueless on how to hook one up to my tractor.

 

I posted a fairly detailed setup in this post and if you have any questions I would be glad to help. 

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/66121-electrical-upgrades-voltmeter-and-external-alternator/

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 29,914]

24 minutes ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

Here is what I did for the the front hitch. It mounts to the front tach a matic and the frame. It also allows me to use the mule drive for the mower at the same time. I use the hole up front for a hitch balls or a threaded rod with small weights. The platform I have used for weights to keep the front end down when I move my trailer around the yard.

 

 

 

 

Thank You!

 

That is slick! Any more pics showing how it connects to mule drive and tachomatic?

 

You could also use it to mount a winch plate pretty easily...

 

I like Cleats' design shown in a previous post as well, but I really like how this one allows use of mule drive and doubles as a front hitch...

Edited June 20, 2017 by SylvanLakeWH

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,362]

@mmmmmdonuts Thanks for the reference thread, I am printing it out as my memory is extreme ly short. May try to put an alternator on my 416-8.

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

I attached some more photos. Originally, I used this mounted to the frame without the newer tach-a-matic style mower deck for my frame. I then modified the mower to use the tach-a-matic system with a mule drive and drilled a few extra holes in the bar for extra mounting locations. If I was to do it again I would have used a wider bar so it would sit slightly higher than the front tach-a-matic. This is on a 1968 Raider.