42" RD Mulcher Blades

[dlaw90 14]

I'm looking to add a mulching blade to my 42" Rear Discharge (Model  78350). I would like to stack the mulching blade above the regular blade like this (picture is not mine):

 

 

I can't find a mulching bladewith the same specs as the Toro blade (Part # 106635).

Length = 14 1/2"

Width = 2"

C.H. Diameter = 3/4"

Thickness = 0.2040"

 

The Oregon 90-643 G3 Gator blade is close.

Length = 13 7/8"

Width = 2.5"

C.H. Diameter = 3/4"

Thickness = 0.203"

 

Will the difference in blade length cause any problems? It seems like everything would still be balanced on the spindle and the Toro blade would still allow a full 42" cutting path. Am I missing anything? I have not verified that there is enough spindle length to accept both blades, but it appears this hasn't been an issue for others.

[953 nut 67,249]

Take a look at these. I have been dealing with Agri Supply for years and find the quality to be very good.

http://www.agrisupply.com/toro-wheelhorse-mower-blade/p/58033/

[GlenPettit 1,719]

That 5/8" difference is not a problem at all:

(1) Notice the overlap of the blades, of nearly an inch,

(2) you still have your original 141/2" blades on and working,

(3) the Gator blades tend to 'suck up' the grass blades for even better cutting.

 

There is just enough threads left on the spindle for the dual blades system, if concerned, you can get "shallow" or thinner 7/8" nuts -- just be sure your nuts are still good, with threads and "not-rounded" edges, and use a very thick heavy Lithi grease on the threads.

Keeping a clean deck helps a lot too, the additional set of Gator blades will greatly help reduce clumping, even on lightly moist cutting days.

 

 

Edited April 28, 2017 by GlenPettit

[dlaw90 14]

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna go ahead and buy some mulching blades.

[Rozlo 6]

I've got a 42 rear discharge deck and it has a baffle all around the blades I've not looked into taking it off but I would like to take at least the back off so it will discharge the grass.  So you can cross blade these without a problem?  I've done it before on my other mowers with great success.   Need some input.

[dlaw90 14]

The spindles on my deck (Model 78350) weren't long enough for it to work. Even when I remove the thick washer (on the side of the blades closer to the ground), I can only engage half the threads on the nut.

 

It seems like the spindles aren't long enough or the blades that I used were too thick. I believe both nuts on the spindle are jam nuts, so I don't think I can find a thinner nut.

 

I haven't had the time to find a solution. Hopefully someone else can chime in with help

[slammer302 2,157]

I believe these are the blades ur looking for Oregon 90-643

[dlaw90 14]

2 hours ago, slammer302 said:

I believe these are the blades ur looking for Oregon 90-643

 

 I used the Oregon 90-643 gator blade with a Toro #106635 blade. Unfortunately my spindles dont seem to have enough thread length

Edited May 30, 2017 by dlawrence529

[GlenPettit 1,719]

Normal Hardware stores (& Lowes) have thinner 3/4" nuts (our regular nuts are about 1/2" thick, they have ones that are just over 1/4" thick too, but be sure the thread count is correct).  

••  Be sure to use an 'anti-stick' or 'Litho grease' on the threads, the direction of spinning tends to tighten up the nut.

••  Don't use a 'pipe wrench' on the nuts, as in first photo, it strips the outside  ----  pawn shops usually have a good selection of quality long-handled 11/8" wrenches, inexpensively;  use a 'box-end' on the outside nut and 'open-end' for under the blades on the spindle nut.

[dlaw90 14]

40 minutes ago, GlenPettit said:

Normal Hardware stores (& Lowes) have thinner 3/4" nuts (our regular nuts are about 1/2" thick, they have ones that are just over 1/4" thick too, but be sure the thread count is correct).  

••  Be sure to use an 'anti-stick' or 'Litho grease' on the threads, the direction of spinning tends to tighten up the nut.

••  Don't use a 'pipe wrench' on the nuts, as in first photo, it strips the outside  ----  pawn shops usually have a good selection of quality long-handled 11/8" wrenches, inexpensively;  use a 'box-end' on the outside nut and 'open-end' for under the blades on the spindle nut.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll make a run to the hardware store this weekend. Do you use zinc, stainless, or galvanized nuts on the spindles?

[pfrederi 20,828]

Zinc is fine just use never-seize.  These thin nuts are often referred to as jam nuts.

[dlaw90 14]

47 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Zinc is fine just use never-seize.  These thin nuts are often referred to as jam nuts.

 

Thanks for the help. It looks like the parts diagram for my mower deck shows a jam nut. Hopefully the hardware store has something thinner.

[GlenPettit 1,719]

Just noticed the washer (#9) in your diagram, that's something I've never used, didn't realize there should be one,

if used, could be replaced with a thin one.

Edited June 2, 2017 by GlenPettit

[dlaw90 14]

9 hours ago, GlenPettit said:

Just noticed the washer (#9) in your diagram, that's something I've never used, didn't realize there should be one,

if used, could be replaced with a thin one.

 

Thanks. I tried replacing washer #9 with a 3/4" ID machine bushing (16 or 18 gauge?). Even if I remove washer #9 completely, I don't have enough thread length on the spindles. With washer #9 removed, about half the threads of the nut are engaged.

 

FYI. Washer #7 is paper thin. I'll pull the deck off and try to get some pictures this weekend.