Jump to content
Fontana

1964 1054 Transmission

Recommended Posts

Fontana

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 1964 Wheel Horse 1054 and have been fixing it up. The tractor was working great but then crapped out while plowing snow. Runs in neutral but when I shift into gear the motor is stressed and kills; it will go in reverse. When up on a jack and drive belt off the wheels move freely and I can shift and wheels and flywheel move easily in unison. Once I put drive belt on and run tractor while on jack the tractor will not shift, just grinds gears and then motor cuts out. The gears look to be in pretty good shape. Any ideas?

20170123_171528.jpg

20170123_184504.jpg

20170123_184350.jpg

Edited by Fontana
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
benji756

are you trying this with the belt guard on it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Shynon

pull all the gears out and look them over, looks like the one in the last picture is worn. Open up the differential the spider gears are probably broken, that is the weak link in these transmissions. Also it's best to pull the shifter and open up the transmission with the  brake on the top , input shaft on the bottom

 

 

 

Edited by Shynon
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

:WRS:

In the photo with the belt guard off I noticed the belt is not routed over the tension idler pulley, I presume it was before. Also that idler must turn freely (disregard the yellow marks, they were for another problem).

 ideler.JPG

As this problem started while in use and it had been doing fine it sounds like a single component failure.

With the transmission in the vice as shown and shifted into neutral; turn one axle and see if the other one turns the opposite direction and turns smoothly. If it is moving freely then hold one axle stationary and turn the other one and see if the bull gear and other gears turn all right. Let us know what you find.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

 @stevasaurus has a post that may help you with this.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Terry M

That looks like very fresh grind on the shown gear.    Like SHYNON said, take out all the gears.   Look everything over and show us some pictures.    people here like to help:)

Terry

 

20170123_184350.thumb.jpg.cc58541a6c23502373bbf19d663eb57a.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

It is hard to see anything in those pictures...you opened the transmission upside down.  Being a 1054, if you have the correct transmission (and I think you do)...it is a Wheel Horse #5047.  This means that you do not have spider gears in the differential...you have the bevel gear differential.  This was Wheel Horse's more heavy duty transmission when compared to the #5025 (which had 4 spider gears).  If you can turn one of the axles (by hand), and the other axle moves in the opposite direction, your bevel gear differential should be OK.  I'm thinking, since you were moving snow, you were shifting fast enough between reverse and 2nd or 3rd gear and the fork gears are such that you are in 2 gears at once.  This was common in these early transmissions.  If you had opened the transmission from the other side, we could probably be able to see if that is the case.

  The first thing to do...loosen the lock nut and back out the 1/8" set screw so you can pull out the shifter.

  Then you can take out all the other gears.  You will need to rebuild the transmission in the shallow side case anyway.

   Keep an eye out for 2 ball bearings 1/4".  They are the detente balls, that go on each side of a spring with a stop in it, that go between your shift rails.  No doubt, those 2 balls are loose in your transmission now that you took off the shallow side of the case.  While the link above will show you a few things with pictures, the videos that will help more are in this link.  Both links show transmissions that are a little different to yours, but they are basically the same.  Your differential is different from the differential in either of these links.  Your brake shaft comes out a different hole in the case in the link below.

    Take it all apart and clean it, I use diesel fuel in a paint tray if you do not have a parts cleaner.  Take pictures of all the gears so we can see if something wrong stands out.

 

 

Below is a good copy of the Transmission Manual for all Wheel Horse Manual Transmissions.  You want to read Section II for your transmission.  :)  BTW...Welcome to Red Square. 

 

 

Edited by stevasaurus
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • JoeM
      By JoeM
      Good Toro XI Lift Valve and Cylinder Assy. 
      Hurry this deal won't last! $60 Plus shipping. 
       

       

       

       
       
       
    • rustyedge1
      By rustyedge1
      Need a condenser for engine shown in photos 8 hp Kohler. Any venders carry them on this site ?
      All help appreciated..Have PayPal or can send check..


    • WheelPuke
      By WheelPuke
      I have my 25A fuse blowing every time I put a new one in the slot. The old one was burnt up when I got the tractor put this year. It sat for a year with a dead battery. I stopped using it as much because the transmission is clattering pretty bad when taking off on second or higher. I had to replace the clutch belt a few years ago and couldn't get an OEM. Not sure what is the problem there that's another issue though.
       
      I have checked the wiring and patched the worn spots where it could be grounding out. The fuse blows as soon as there is power to the system with the ignition off. I'm at a loss of what to check for at this point. Any input from someone who has had this issue would be appreciated. I'm not sure what these units are in the photos but do not know how to test them for a failure. They are directly in loop with the battery and the ignition loom looks to run into that 25A fuse.

    • Redtickuleez
      By Redtickuleez
      Hello gentlemen!!! I recently bought a d180 with loader and backhoe. Im looking for serial number.. there is a plate under the steering wheel but its been pajnted over and i can make it out. Can y'all tell me another location and was this tractor pruchased originally with these attachments and any info would be greatly appreciated... Thanks fellow Wheel Horse enthusiasts !!! !! !!!
    • Aaron Coffman
      By Aaron Coffman
      Hi Red Square Community,
       
      I am looking into purchasing the below pictured "POND" Walk Away. The unit itself has the cast in “POND” on the chain reduction housing. The two main things I am looking to learn are what value is typical for these to sell for. This one has a Briggs & Stratton model “N” engine. It runs and drives, but the throttle linkage needs some adjusting. It comes with a cultivator and plow implement. 
       
      Secondly, I was wondering if there is any way to determine what year specifically this Pond is from. The seller believes late 1940s and not 1950s. I am new to these machines, so I am looking for some guidance. Thank you in advance! 
       

×
×
  • Create New...