AlwaysLookin80 1,308 #51 Posted June 14, 2016 Looks great Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #52 Posted June 14, 2016 so you think the metal is clean enough? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #53 Posted June 14, 2016 1 hour ago, russellmc301 said: so you think the metal is clean enough? Personally, I'd get it cleaner. All the rust in the pits will come back in a year or less if you cover it up. Etching primer will help, but not cure it all. Consider some of this.... http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend/overview/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer.htm or http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1828700&KPID=1569161&pla=pla_1569161 or http://www.google.com/shopping/product/15553456610062740969?lsf=seller:6583990,store:10945409014714470848&prds=oid:5256284602903009736&q=naval+jelly&hl=en&ei=QP9fV6b0BI-kyAL225SIDA&lsft=gclid:CN__sPXIp80CFU88gQodCKkHKA or https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/paint-chemicals/rust-dissolver/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,574 #54 Posted June 14, 2016 I would suggest going over every thing with some 80grit paper yet, especially on the flat surfaces. If you have a DA or a vibrating sander these would work the fastest. If not a good hand scrubbing will work too. Sand blasting is my choice for cleaning metal but I realize not every one has access to a blaster. Gray or silver looking metal is better than a darker brown or black. Dark metal indicates that there is still rust on the metal. You can cover rust with primer and paint but it will come back through. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #55 Posted June 14, 2016 4 hours ago, RedRanger said: Consider some of this Is one better or are they the same? we have a sandblaster but we don't have sand and we have every type of sander so we are doing it that way. we are useing a viberating osalating sander and it works great. we have all the equietment to do it right which is GREAT. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #56 Posted June 15, 2016 9 hours ago, russellmc301 said: Is one better or are they the same? we have a sandblaster but we don't have sand and we have every type of sander so we are doing it that way. we are useing a viberating osalating sander and it works great. we have all the equietment to do it right which is GREAT. They all do basically the same thing. They kill rust. I also prefer to sandblast, but if I can't blast it and remove ALL the rust, I'll use a liquid neutralizer. Any of them should work better than using nothing. As achto said, if you leave the rust, it will return soon. Covering it with fresh primer or paint does nothing to fix it. Consider rust the same as a cavity in your tooth. Does the dentist get rid of the decay and rot before filling the bad spot, or does he just fill over the rot? I'd use 80 grit sander followed by coarse wire wheel on a drill and then one of the above type of products. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #57 Posted June 15, 2016 ok thanks i have been using a wire wheel the whole time and it works great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #58 Posted June 16, 2016 is valspar a good brand? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #59 Posted June 17, 2016 if I may throw my two cents worth..i also have a thread (in the wrong category I now see) for remodeling my suburban, I showed some pics of what home depot 15$ bottle of phosphoric acid can do to etch and treat the rust prior to a primer coat. I do have some more conclusive pics coming. But I like the results of the cleaned metal and I was informed about two part epoxy primers do awesome at filling in any imperfections. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #60 Posted June 17, 2016 alright thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,574 #61 Posted June 17, 2016 23 hours ago, russellmc301 said: is valspar a good brand? I'm not real familiar with their products but if they offer an acrylic enamel paint I would be willing to try it. If they only offer a straight enamel or synthetic enamel these paints usually have a longer dry time and the gloss is not as good as an acrylic enamel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #62 Posted June 18, 2016 ok, i need to keep chuging along and keep researching,every day I'm are closer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #63 Posted July 1, 2016 UPDATE: alot of stuff primed and working on cleaning others and preping for primer going to mix some more primer up today and see how it goes. hood welded and working grinding off the welds. pic to come today what color should i paint the muffler? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,574 #64 Posted July 1, 2016 1 hour ago, russellmc301 said: what color should i paint the muffler? High temp silver should be the first choice. If not high temp black will work too. I just use spray can paint on mine. More is not always better here. In my experience if you put high temp on too thick it tends to bubble on you when it gets hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #65 Posted July 2, 2016 (edited) some of the primed parts on the shelf after i tried out my gun. here is a batch of parts ready for primer i tried out my hvlp and i thinned it 3 onces for a pint and it went on great. i also got black engine paint for my muffler. Edited July 2, 2016 by russellmc301 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #66 Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) what is the right color for the wheels? i've heard ivory antique white and some others, what is the right one? Edited July 4, 2016 by russellmc301 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 10,748 #67 Posted July 4, 2016 Looking really sharp, nice effort Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #68 Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) thanks it is a slow but fun project is a backrest something you could have got or did that only comes on 401's? Edited July 4, 2016 by russellmc301 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #69 Posted July 12, 2016 Progress is coming but other things have been taking some of my time. the hood is 90 percent done. the wheel birthday horse brought me some gear gaurds and some nice decals from the one and only @Vinylguy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #70 Posted July 17, 2016 (edited) tank is all cleaned and ready for paint the hood it good on the outside but still has some spots on inside. after the hood is done we will clean the engine and then paint it. the muffler pipe wouldn't come off so we will have to paint it on the engine.then get all the little odds and ends gathered then the wheels. hope to have it done soon. what is the gas cap subpose to look like? mine has some welding on it. Edited July 17, 2016 by russellmc301 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #71 Posted July 19, 2016 got the hood dings and cracks filled in and sanded the serial plate and it looks great so i don't think i will use the decal. also soldered the cap then used filler to make the cap smooth, then put some gasket material in to seal it. is the cap suppost to have a hole? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #73 Posted July 19, 2016 alright do you have a picture so i can make a hole in mine? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #74 Posted July 20, 2016 everything is filled and now we have to sand it and fill any remaining inperfecions then primeing it. filler hardens quick on a hot day so i put it in the ac so it will be cooler when we mix it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #75 Posted July 21, 2016 (edited) Edited July 21, 2016 by AMC RULES Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
