C121 will not crank
kcuttuck, in Wheel Horse Electrical
About a year ago I bought a C-121 auto with the intention of using it as my go-to mower. Shortly thereafter I got a great deal on a low hour 314-8. It ran perfect and had several attachments - it became my new go-to mower. So, I decided to repurpose the 121 to be a front end loader. After purchasing the build plans from P.F Engineering (which are excellent), I realized I couldn’t build it for less than $2k in material. I decided to look for a used one and found a Thompson TC10 local to me, mounted on an “end of life” 1077, for $1,000. The loader swap itself was pretty straight forward. The only modifications needed were drilling a couple of mounting holes in the tractor frame, grinding away a little of the loader top frame so the hood opened/closed and welding in a new hydraulic pump mount. I have a few things to button up still and the bucket itself needs attention but it’s fully functional. I also bought a pair of clamp-on pallet forks.
I also did a “refresh” of the 121. The total project cost is shown below. Roughly $2,300, with just the FEL itself being around $1,300.
C-121 Auto $500
Solid engine mounts $50
Front End Loader
Johnson 10TC $1,000
Hydraulic fluid $35
Spare hydraulic hose $40
Battery cables $20
Points & Condenser $20
Carb & Gasket $65
Electric fuel pump $60 (later removed)
Air filter $10
Fuel filter $15
Fuel line $10
Spark plug $5
Decals and Paint
Headlight Lens $45
LED Headlights $25
Rear lights $25
Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life!
So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/
I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark.
model - 417-8
engine - Kohler KT17
Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.)
- new ignition switch
- new battery
- new starter
- new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs
- new condenser
- new points
- new starter solenoid
- bypassed all switches except oil and seat.
idiot lights removed.
All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection ..
coil tested w/ ohms as well
all switches bypassed except:
-oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. )
ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark.
Electric is as follows:
- Starter switch wired to solenoid
- - solenoid to starter
- - solenoid to batt
- one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel)
- I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat.
Help - what the heck am I missing ?
I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks
Ok, So I am seeing that most of you are leaning towards the ONAN engines being crap. That said, I have 2 416's # 1 is a -8 and # 2 is a -H. Both have the -216 in them. i was thinking of rebuilding the engine from the 416-H, but I am also considering changing the engine out with a different type. What are the recomendations? I am seeing Koler, what else will fit?