Jump to content
kcuttuck

C121 will not crank

Recommended Posts

kcuttuck

My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.

 

I tested the clutch switch. good

Replaced the key switch.

Seat switch is bypassed. 

 

I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before. 

 

Help Please.

 

Matt

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

Voltage dropping off is an indication of bad connections. Before you start replacing anything, clean and tighten all electrical connections. If the problem remains you can take a small jumper wire from the battery positive to the small terminal on the solenoid which should actuate the solenoid and starter. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kcuttuck

I replaced the wire connectors for the key switch. What other connections do you suggest I clean?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
6 minutes ago, kcuttuck said:

What other connections do you suggest I clean?

All of them! The battery cables (+ & -) at both ends and the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Any corroded or loose connection anyplace in the electrical circuit will result in voltage drop.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

The C-121 is a cradle motor and has an extra ground wire on the cradle. Make sure it is connected well.  I've seen vibration of the motor take a toll on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kcuttuck

I found a bad amp meter. It showed power though it till there was a draw. 

 

Thanks for the help.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

You can bypass the ammeter by placing both wires on the same terminal. Disconnect the negative battery cable before you do to prevent an accidental short.

 

A more economical repair is to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter and it will give you more useful information. A voltmeter needs to be powered by the ignition circuit plus a simple ground to the chassis.

 

Garry

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • PWL216
      By PWL216
      About a year ago I bought a C-121 auto with the intention of using it as my go-to mower. Shortly thereafter I got a great deal on a low hour 314-8.  It ran perfect and had several attachments - it became my new go-to mower.  So, I decided to repurpose the 121 to be a front end loader. After purchasing the build plans from P.F Engineering (which are excellent), I realized I couldn’t build it for less than $2k in material. I decided to look for a used one and found a Thompson TC10 local to me, mounted on an “end of life” 1077, for $1,000.  The loader swap itself was pretty straight forward. The only modifications needed were drilling a couple of mounting holes in the tractor frame, grinding away a little of the loader top frame so the hood opened/closed and welding in a new hydraulic pump mount. I have a few things to button up still and the bucket itself needs attention but it’s fully functional. I also bought a pair of clamp-on pallet forks.
       
      I also did a “refresh” of the 121. The total project cost is shown below. Roughly $2,300, with just the FEL itself being around $1,300. 
       
      Tractor
      C-121 Auto $500
      Solid engine mounts $50

      Front End Loader
      Johnson 10TC $1,000
      Hydraulic fluid $35
      Spare hydraulic hose $40

      Ignition
      Battery $35
      Battery cables $20
      Points & Condenser $20

      Fuel
      Carb & Gasket $65
      Electric fuel pump $60 (later removed)
      Air filter $10
      Fuel filter $15
      Fuel line $10
      Spark plug $5

      Decals and Paint
      Decals $115
      Paint $30

      Lights
      Headlight Lens $45
      LED Headlights $25
      Rear lights $25

      Misc $200



    • Tenday
      By Tenday
      Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life! 
       
      So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/ 
       
      I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark. 
       
      model - 417-8 
      engine - Kohler KT17
       
      Done thus far:  (aware that some have no implication on spark.) 
       
      - new ignition switch 
      - new battery 
      - new starter
      - new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs 
      - new condenser 
      - new points 
      - new starter solenoid 
      - bypassed all switches except oil and seat. 

      notes:

      idiot lights removed. 
       
      All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection  .. 
       
      coil tested w/ ohms as well
       
      all switches bypassed except: 
      -oil switch  ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. ) 
      -seat switch 
       
      ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark. 
       
       
      Electric is as follows:  
       
      - Starter switch wired to solenoid
      - - solenoid to starter 
      - - solenoid to batt
       
      - one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel) 
       
      - I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil.  Comes from switch and seat. 

       
       
       
      Help - what the heck am I missing ? 
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • Gingerbread
      By Gingerbread
      I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks
    • DVail2000
      By DVail2000
      Ok, So I am seeing that most of you are leaning towards the ONAN engines being crap.  That said, I have 2 416's  # 1 is a -8 and # 2 is a -H.  Both have the -216 in them.  i was thinking of rebuilding the engine from the 416-H, but I am also considering changing the engine out with a different type.  What are the recomendations? I am seeing Koler, what else will fit?
       
       
      Thanks
       
      Dave.
×
×
  • Create New...