TDF5G 2,051 #26 Posted April 22, 2016 23 minutes ago, RedRanger said: Why are auto engineers morons? 'Cause they don't have to work on 'em. That really stinks, man! I feel for ya. It sounds like something that would happen to me. Intake removal isn't all that difficult. I did my 6.0 about a year ago. Check out videos on youtube, to see what's invlolved, there are several. You can tell which guys know what they're doing and which ones don't. Good luck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #27 Posted April 22, 2016 The "good" thing about the LS is the coolant doesn't flow through the intake it self none of that mess, and no distributor to retime or mess with, it's just all those dang electronic connections hanging or bolted in the way and plastic emission tubing, the engine/trans was mounted to the frame before the cab and fenders were fitted so that makes it worse for us DIY'ers, and we fuss when we get the labor bill from a repair shop, but a Haynes manual is a great big help with actual pics of what we are working ok, sorry for your misfortune, but when those faux gauges go bad/crazy they trigger the ECM/PCM to trigger the check engine light also to grab your attention, it's not always something mechanical as it's usually electronic nature more often than not just my experiences from having buddy at the Chevy dealer service shop, Jeff. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #28 Posted April 22, 2016 34 minutes ago, TDF5G said: 'Cause they don't have to work on 'em. That really stinks, man! I feel for ya. It sounds like something that would happen to me. Intake removal isn't all that difficult. I did my 6.0 about a year ago. Check out videos on youtube, to see what's invlolved, there are several. You can tell which guys know what they're doing and which ones don't. Good luck. Did you re-use your intake gaskets or do I need to buy a set of those now? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #29 Posted April 22, 2016 You can reuse them as long as they're not damaged or brittle , just wipe em off and put them back on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,051 #30 Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, RedRanger said: Why are auto engineers morons? 'Cause they don't have to work on 'em. That really stinks, man! I feel for ya. It sounds like something that would happen to me. Intake removal isn't all that difficult. I did my 6.0 about a year ago. Check out videos on youtube, to see what's invlolved, there are several. You can tell which guys know what they're doing and which ones don't. Good luck. 12 minutes ago, RedRanger said: Did you re-use your intake gaskets or do I need to buy a set of those now? I got a new set from Rock Auto. I had to pull the intake to replace the knock sensors. I think I would have been able to reuse the old gaskets though, as they looked good. I just wanted to get it done so I ordered everything I might need before I tore it down. I never had done one before but I did my homework first. You'll need a line tool to remove the fuel line and there are different ways to relieve the fuel pressure. You need an inch pounds torque wrench to reinstall the intake. It took me about 4 hours total. But I was prepared with everything I needed. Didn't have to make any trips to the auto parts store. Edited April 22, 2016 by TDF5G Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #31 Posted April 22, 2016 44 minutes ago, TDF5G said: 'Cause they don't have to work on 'em. That really stinks, man! I feel for ya. It sounds like something that would happen to me. Intake removal isn't all that difficult. I did my 6.0 about a year ago. Check out videos on youtube, to see what's invlolved, there are several. You can tell which guys know what they're doing and which ones don't. Good luck. I got a new set from Rock Auto. I had to pull the intake to replace the knock sensors. I think I would have been able to reuse the old gaskets though, as they looked good. I just wanted to get it done so I ordered everything I might need before I tore it down. I never had done one before but I did my homework first. You'll need a line tool to remove the fuel line and there are different ways to relieve the fuel pressure. You need an inch pounds torque wrench to reinstall the intake. It took me about 4 hours total. But I was prepared with everything I needed. Didn't have to make any trips to the auto parts store. The video I watched they were able to unbolt/unclip the fuel rails and lift and set them aside as a unit. Then remove the intake. Is that possible? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,051 #32 Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) 24 minutes ago, RedRanger said: The video I watched they were able to unbolt/unclip the fuel rails and lift and set them aside as a unit. Then remove the intake. Is that possible? Yes. I removed my fuel rail to get it out of the way to get to the knock sensors and get down in the holes with a wire brush to clean the corrosion. You may not have to do so. You will have to disconnect each injector to move the fuel rail assembly in order to remove the intake. Edited April 22, 2016 by TDF5G 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,947 #33 Posted April 22, 2016 And people wonder why I don't work on cars anymore! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #34 Posted April 25, 2016 Well, I got it fixed this weekend. Forgot to take pictures. Went really smoothly. Couldn't remove the fuel rails as a unit, so I went and bought the fuel line removal tool for $10 and just unhooked the fuel rail supply hose. Took about an hour to disassemble everything, an hour to clean everything up and about 30 minutes to reassemble. The broken oil sending unit stub was not even tight, it came right out. Interesting thing though, my engine is a 2008 5.3 and there were no knock sensors in the valley? The valley cover is a cast aluminum piece, not the smooth steel ones with the two holes for knock sensors. New design? I was going to replace the knock sensors, but there were none? Also sprung the extra $60 for a new set of Felpro intake gaskets, worked great! The old ones probably would have still worked. but weren't in the best condition. Now my oil gauge works like new! No more fluctuating. Well, I got it fixed this weekend. Forgot to take pictures. Went really smoothly. Couldn't remove the fuel rails as a unit, so I went and bought the fuel line removal tool for $10 and just unhooked the fuel rail supply hose. Took about an hour to disassemble everything, an hour to clean everything up and about 30 minutes to reassemble. The broken oil sending unit stub was not even tight, it came right out. Interesting thing though, my engine is a 2008 5.3 and there were no knock sensors in the valley? The valley cover is a cast aluminum piece, not the smooth steel ones with the two holes for knock sensors. New design? I was going to replace the knock sensors, but there were none? Also sprung the extra $60 for a new set of Felpro intake gaskets, worked great! The old ones probably would have still worked. but weren't in the best condition. Now my oil gauge works like new! No more fluctuating. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,051 #35 Posted April 25, 2016 Success! That's great. GM must have changed the location of the knock sensors. My 6.0 is a 2004. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
