Mike'sHorseBarn 3,255 #1 Posted April 12, 2016 Looking at getting a deglazing hone for my shop so I can do I a little more engine work myself instead of having someone else do it. My question is, what brand and type of hone do you guys use in your shops? I have a few motors that could use rings and I really want to get on this. Thanks for your input!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,413 #2 Posted April 12, 2016 If your not going over size a simple ball hone is all you need to put cross hatch back into your cylinder. You'll have to get one in the correct range / size for your cylinder bore size. Should be able to get at most automotive stores. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,638 #3 Posted April 12, 2016 I use a Lisle spring loaded three stone.It cover 2" to 7" cylinders.You can get them at some auto parts stores or off E-bay for about $26.00.Replacement stones are readily available. JimAnderson Gloucester,Va 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boomers_influence 106 #4 Posted April 12, 2016 club i ONLY use ball hones for de/glazing cylinder walls. if using the stone type, and you hit the crank, and or some other internal part, you have a piece of twisted junk. the ball hone is MUCH MORE forgiving. i got mine from mc master carr, 240 grit. thank you. boomer ( the used onan engine parts guy, also NOS and new ) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,638 #5 Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) I would NEVER EVER hone any cylinder with a crank and cam in place.You risk contaminating the oil when refilled.You cannot clean the grit from the cylinder and engine interior with any degree of certainty.If you doubt what I say, ask any reputable engine shop or machinist about that.Hone a bare block only. JAinVA JImAnderson Gloucester,Va Edited April 12, 2016 by JAinVA 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,255 #6 Posted April 13, 2016 2 hours ago, JAinVA said: I would NEVER EVER hone any cylinder with a crank and cam in place.You risk contaminating the oil when refilled.You cannot clean the grit from the cylinder and engine interior with any degree of certainty.If you doubt what I say, ask any reputable engine shop or machinist about that.Hone a bare block only. JAinVA JImAnderson Gloucester,Va Thanks for the tip. I was looking at a hone similar to the one you described earlier except it was craftsman brand. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,638 #7 Posted April 13, 2016 A ball hone or spring loaded stone work equally well.It's an economic or personal choice.Just don't use either except on a bare block. JAinVA JimAnderson Gloucester,Va 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #8 Posted April 13, 2016 A ball hone ? is that like a dingleberry hone?? Heh, just joshing, thats what I've always called em. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #9 Posted April 13, 2016 A dingleberry hone wont correct an out of round bore, they are great for breaking the glaze so that new rings will seat. A 3 stone hone that you can crank some pressure on can fix an out of round bore or enlarge a bore to the next bigger size. But even so you dont want to try and get more than a couple of thousanths out. Depends what you are trying to achieve. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,864 #10 Posted April 13, 2016 Let's ask @prondzy on this one as he is the pro...from what I am reading @boomers_influence is suggesting that it be done with internals in??? I find it hard to believe he would advise that as he is a small engine pro himself. .must be a communication error here. Dingle berry stone or something else? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,889 #11 Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Deglazing I would use a dingleberry hone with a high grit count. and lots of clean motor oil . Any type of hone wether a ball type or three stone will not remove an out of round condition, they only file what already exists because they are spring loaded. If you need to remove an out of round you have to machine the block. Thanks @Whx61/3 but I wouldn't say I'm the pro. Leaving internals in yoy are risking running grit through the motor. After honing yoy will want to wash it thoroughly. Edited April 13, 2016 by prondzy 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #12 Posted April 13, 2016 Since others have mentioned honing a cyl without stripping the engine - I too dont strip. Over my lifetime (quite lengthy) I have probably rebuilt over 100 engines and have never had a hint of a problem. A little common sense in flushing the cavity afterwards IS needed. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,255 #13 Posted April 13, 2016 Thanks for all the suggestions guys! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boomers_influence 106 #14 Posted April 13, 2016 club my customers that break a rod, ( lack of oil ) USUALLY only replace the rod, and piston if needed. depending on the hours that are on the engine most will replace the rings on both pistons. BUT very few will want to tear the engine completely down. my original statement is based on what joe tractor owner wants to do. any engine done on site here is torn down. a spring loaded hone is really no better than a ball hone. what you really want is a rigid stone, that is used in a wet tank. thank you. boomer 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites