Transmission Leaking in my '89 312-8 (21-12K806)

[stevasaurus 23,816]

The slide hammer bearing puller is the way to go...really.  All of the other bearings will tap out with the right arbor (socket, etc).

 

randhad...charlieD250 says he used to rebuild the bearings...from what I understand, he would get the holder spring out some how...change out the bearings and snap it back together.  I would like to see a video of that process.    Seriously.

[randhad 8]

Steve, seems to me that the trickiest part of rebuilding the ball bearing would be to figure out how to re-rivet the cage.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6svVy1lYOA

Edited January 30, 2015 by randhad

[Desko 686]

Steve, seems to me that the trickiest part of rebuilding the ball bearing would be to figure out how to re-rivet the cage.

The cages arnt riveted but are almost like a spring steel and fit in tight and press against the race to hold it

[randhad 8]

Thanks Desko, I'm going to see if I can get my hands on one and take it apart myself. Does that cage look riveted?

 

Edited January 30, 2015 by randhad

[Ed Kennell 47,105]

I think the ball cages are riveted together in this bearing.  Some have one piece  plastic cages  where the balls are snapped in place.

If the bearing is sealed,  The shields are just snapped under the outer race lip and run on the inner race.

Edited January 30, 2015 by ekennell

[kudzu3 323]

If I were in there anyway, I'd go ahead and replace all bearings and seals. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with it.

[DISISIT13 1]

Used this bad boy. The bearing puller was a little smaller so I had to jam it out of the center of the bearing with my hand to get it to stay in there. It took quite a bit of effort with the slide hammer.

[DISISIT13 1]

Is there a trick to getting the axle differential assembly back through the needle bearing and oil seal? I can't get the axle to go through and don't want to apply too much pressure and break the needle bearing. Thank you guys for all of your help. 

[randhad 8]

Make sure you file down any burs that you may have around the hub key. Grease up the end of the axle really good. And this is what I did that some may not agree with... As you are pushing the end into the seal, take a toothpick and gently pursued those parts of the seal that want to fold out - to stay in.

 

I opened and closed the transmission that I just re-built so many times, feels like I've rebuilt 10 tranny's already. This was my first She climbs right up a mountain of snow now.

 

Keep at it, you'll get there.

Edited January 30, 2015 by randhad

[Ed Kennell 47,105]

Some have rolled a tube of thin mylar to act as a guide for the seal lip to slide over the axle.

[Racinbob 13,117]

It sounds like you installed the seal before the axle was in place. I'm thinking I would wait on the seals until the transmission was bolted back together. It's pretty easy to finesse the seals in place then. As others have said, make sure all the burrs are cleaned up or you likely will damage the new seal.

[Desko 686]

Thanks Desko, I'm going to see if I can get my hands on one and take it apart myself. Does that cage look riveted?

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg221/WH1056/Uni-

Drive%206%20speed/010810tranz166.jpg

Yes some have a back like was stated above open ball have a retaining ring