Brought Home a Horse - ID Help Needed

[brentvdg 4]

Hey Guys,

 

Newbie here and I could use your help. I found a decent deal on a C-175 last week, and I brought it home, but I'm not sure which year it's from. I couldn't locate an ID tag on it. It's got a KT17 series 1 on it, metal body, red hood. The deck has a tag on it, and is a 48MS02, but not sure if it's original to the tractor. I'm pretty certain it has the Eaton transmission, but not 100%. 

 

Also, I'm trying to get the deck off, and I can't budge the mule drive knob. I'm going clockwise, but it doesn't want to go. Any tips on that?

 

Thanks guys, I'm already learning a ton from the forum, and it's a great feeling having another horse in the barn (I grew up with one, but it's been awhile!).

 

 

 

 

[Ed Kennell 42,078]

Nice .....  Looks like the C-175's were made 1980 thru 1984 and the auto's were all Eaton 1100-032's.   Try ccwise on the mule drive tensioner.

[brentvdg 4]

Nice .....  Looks like the C-175's were made 1980 thru 1984 and the auto's were all Eaton 1100-032's.   Try ccwise on the mule drive tensioner.

 

Thanks! I've tried both ways, but no go.

 

I got this thing home late Sunday last weekend. Talk about the longest week of work of all time! 

 

I've changed the oil, and checked the trans fluid, which looks really fresh, so I'm probably going to let that go awhile. The P/O installed an hour meter, but it's not hooked up, so I have no clue on the hours. I want to get that and the headlights back up and running.

 

I'm planning to use it to get snow off the driveway, get a tiller for the garden, and other uses around the house. My mower is a Toro Z/T, so I've got the mowing covered, but I never felt comfortable pulling anything with it. I've got a plug aerator, drop seeder, sweeper, and an old IH dump cart. I seem to have to take down and clear 1-2 trees per year, so having this to pull is going to come in very handy.

[ericj 1,579]

try putting a rag around the knob and a big pair of channel lock pliers. i don't like doing it this way but sometimes you got to do whats you got to do

 

 

eric j

[DoctorHfuhruhurr 137]

Try spraying some PB Blaster or similar product in the area where the bolt screws in. 

[Wheel-N-It 2,976]

Congrats on the C175. PB Blaster works wonders. Be patient with the old rusty bolts. Don't force the plastic knob on the mule drive and break it. Keep that series 1 engine full of oil and work it!

[953 nut 60,143]

   Counter clockwise tightens the belt on a  . As stated by others, PB Blaster and time will do the trick.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ed Kennell 42,078]

Like others say ...soak the threads in PB blaster.  I would put the Big water pump pliers on the unthreaded part of the rod just behind the front face guard on the mule. Would not put more leverage on the knob with pliers.  That's why most mule drives are missing the knob.    Clockwise is correct to loosen, but try to work it both ways to break it loose in the crossbolt. 

If you still can't get it free, you can pull the D snap rings that hold the two side plates on the crossbolt and then tap the slide plates off the crossbolt.  This should loosen the drive so you can get it off the tractor.             Good luck.       :)  

[brentvdg 4]

Thanks all for the advice. Any idea from the pics which year it may be? Just curious.

Thanks again!

[groundhog47 347]

Try spraying some PB Blaster or similar product in the area where the bolt screws in. 

Also if can get to very front of screw, grab with a pair of vise grip type pliers and rock back and forth. If you can get a bit of hot/hot heat to trunion heat up and spray with above or similar. Mine loked up and this worked, but had it off tractor makin easier to get to. If belt is shot, cut it and remove. If not tyr dropin deck and workin forward enough to unroll belt of middle pulley if the dropin deck doesn't allow uncoupling mule>

[Kelly 1,033]

Careful turning the knob it only has a small roll pin holding it on, light heat on the treads can help, as for the year looking at the pics I'm going to say 1984 it looks like it has the correct metal fenders with out the body line at the bottom back edge, the ID tag would have been on the panel below the dash, but I see a alum. panel in it's place, so the tag is probably long gone. 

[Sparky-(Admin) 23,189]

The first year was 1980 for the C-175. Midway thru 1980 they changed from Sundstrand hydro's to Eaton 1100 hydro's (that's what you have). 1984 was the last year for this machine and the only year for the metal rear fender pan from the factory. If its the original rear fender its a 1984 but its very easy to swap a metal fender onto a tractor with a busted up plastic fender so without the model# ID tag its hard to tell.

Maybe someone here can get a manufacture date off the engine #'s??

  Mike..............

[KC9KAS 4,744]

 , and   for the photos.

[brentvdg 4]

Got some PB last night and got it loose in a matter of seconds. Thanks for the tip guys, that's awesome stuff!

[Ed Kennell 42,078]

       SUCCESS     AIN'T IT GREAT ...CONGRATS ..... AND WELCOME  TO THE SQUARE