New 18 Auto (New to me at least)

[biggej 0]

I recently purchased 18 Auto with a Front End Loader. I have coveted one for a long time.

I have been reading forums for awhile and think it is time to ask a question or two.

1. I need to adjust the motion control neutral position. The procedure appears straight forward but I wonder about the proper way to lift the rear of the tractor to put it on jack stands. I have seen posts about cracked and repaired transaxles and don't want to go there. My normal inclination would be to put a floor jack under the transaxle and lift. Will that be a disaster?

2. My FEL does not have much lift power and when the tractor is parked with the loader up, the loader will soon settle to the ground. Where is the best place to start looking for the problem?

3. I have a small hydraulic leak in the FEL quick coupler plumbing. Is Locktite 545 the best thread sealer to use? I understand teflon tape is a no-no.

Thanks, Jim

[1maidenfan 201]

Wel Jim for starters... and next... .

On jacking the tractor up, I use a floor jack just under the rear axle then jack stands to the sides of it.

Not sure on the front loader question as I dont have mine up and running but I would say the control valve...

On the thread sealer, I believe you want to use something like pipe dope with teflon. Not to sure I would be using thread locker...

Any way... and keep us posted on your progress.

[pfrederi 17,182]

If there are no obvious leaks on the cylinders the control valve is a possibility. However how long does it take to settle...fast enough to watch it go down? A pump in good shape with a tight drive belt and adequate fluid should be able to overcome some leakage. How weak is the loader can is pick up a half bucket of gravel/Crushed stone fairly quickly or does it struggle. Assuming the bucket is evenly loaded does it seem to lift evenly or twist and lean on the way up (indicate bad cylinders.)

Have you cleaned the screen on the suction line? (located in the right side vertical frame member/ reservoir at the bottom). (I added a filter to my FEL on the bypass line from the control valve back to the reservoir as additional insurance

As to the leak is it the quick connect itself or where the fitting threads on to the hose end. If it is the threads I happen to use Permatex high temp thread sealant on most things, but if the locktite 245 is the flange sealant variety (not same as thread locker type, I don't recall the various #s) it should work

[biggej 0]

1maidenfan- Thanks for the reply. I will get some pictures uploaded soon.

Pfrederi- Paul, the further up the loader is when the control is moved to neutral, quicker it lowers on its own. I suspect there is more pressure the higher it is. I will get a load in the bucket and see if it seems to twist. Thus far my observations have been with an empty bucket. I have only had the tractor for a few weeks and there is a lot going on right now to keep me from playing! You have given me some things to look for and report back. Thanks, Jim

[JamesBe1 80]

Kinda sounds like the spool valve is leaking, but I am far from an expert.

Do the bucket tilt cylinders droop after a while also? That is, if you have the bucket off of the ground (might have to hold it up with something), and the bucket tilted out slightly, will it droop over so that the bucket is then pointing down?

I hope I explained that well enough.

If they don't droop, then your problem is likely either in both lift cylinders, or the spool valve (by guess). But, more importantly, it means that it isn't anything to do with your pump as the pump would affect both sets of cylinders. You might even consider swapping the lines to the spool valves so that they operate the other (kinda messy to do). If you problem goes to the bucket cylinders and the lift cylinders seem to be better, then it indicates the spool valve.

If they do droop, then either you have four bad cylinders, two leaky spool valves, or the pump is shot.

Check the ends of the cylinders for snap rings. If they are there, then they can be disassembled and replace the orings without too much difficulty.

Regarding the leak. Is it leaking from a threaded connection or the quick coupler itself?

Post some pics when you get a chance, we'd all like to see them.

[biggej 0]

We had a warm day recently so I decided it was time to investigate some of the problems with my Auto 18. I jacked up the rear wheels and adjusted the motion control neutral position. I think I got the creeping problem resolved but the neutral position sure has a small sweet spot.

Next was the a check of the hydraulic fluid. I removed the fluid overflow screw and found the reservoir to be overfull. I drained about 5oz of excess into a glass jar, hopefully pictured above. As shown, it is a the color of coffee with heavy cream. I immediately suspected water had infiltrated the system but after letting it sit for several days, nothing separated out. I then put a sample in the freezer and it did not solidify in the least. Maybe the experts here can give me a clue as to what it is. The fluid does not have much of a smell so I think it is Hydraulic fluid rather than motor oil. Needless it will be time to flush with new fluid and then drain and refill this spring. Other thoughts?

[JamesBe1 80]

I know what you mean about adjusting the motion controls. I've adjusted mine (properly I think), and I just don't trust it completely not to creep.

Anyhow, your fluid should be motor oil instead of typical hydraulic fluid. There are several discussions around here as to what is better. Take you pick. But it may be that somebody swapped yours over to hydraulic fluid at one time. From the looks of the picture, it looks pretty shot whatever it is. It certainly reminds me of very old, very bad motor oil that has had water mixed into it to the point of being an emulsion. I think if it were hydraulic fluid, it would still have a reddish tinge to it. That's the only reason I think that it is not hydraulic fluid.

At any rate, drain the system as much as you possibly can and replace the fluid with the fluid of your choice (don't forget to spin the pump some to try to remove what is in there too). At least you've got this part figured out. Keep us updated on your progress.

[wheeledhorseman 573]

Welcome to the forum and second that regarding the fluid - it doesn't look good.

It may not solve the issue but needs to be replaced as a starting point.

Andy

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[varosd 1,185]

looks like Coffee Milk! (nod out to all our WH Fanatics from the Ocean State of Rhode Island)

[brandonozz 168]

Biggej, congrats on your find. How is your loader progress going. I am interested to know if/how you fixed the problem.

I picked up a D200 this past weekend and am trying to "learn"my way thru it as well. I havent got around to working on the FEL yet as I have to get the trans fixed before I can run the tractor as the case is cracked from a loose/broken bolt. I do know I have a leaking cylinder that will need repaired on the loader that was leaking when I was loading it on the trailer. The loader was sitting for years and may need lots of TLC to get working well.