K-341 won't start after new parts

[Dresden Guy 24]

Need help........

I am frustrated after replacing, points, plug, solenoid, capacitor, muffler, air filter, and all fuel lines on my c-160/8 w/ a K341...... and it won't start!!!!. The engine turns over but just won't fire. Yes, I did open the fuel shutoff valve after re-mounting the tank.

Question: What is the order of things to check? e.g. - spark, fuel flow, phase of the Moon , etc.

I am not a master engine mechanic, but took great pain to install everything correctly, so I thought. It's hopefully something simple and I will.

Thanks

Dresden Guy

[AMC RULES 36,945]

You said it cranks, is there fuel in the carb, and spark from the coil too? :scratchead:

[Martin 2,130]

since you replaced the fuel lines, make sure you have gas all the way to the carb. sometimes priming the line is necessary to get it to the pump and then to carb.

pressurize the tank is the easiest way to get it there. if you have any air in the line or the pump you will probably never get the gas there no matter how long you crank on it.

[Dresden Guy 24]

I ran out of time, but will check both of those first thing in the morning.....

I gapped the points, staticly, to .021" and gapped the plug to .035".

Incidentally, the engine is a K341-71128a, on a 1976 C-160 S/N 7420321

Thanks Craig

[Hydro 130]

I had a similar issue after rebuilding the carb. I just pulled the spark plug and put a cap full of gas in the cylinder and it fired right up.

[Martin 2,130]

sometimes if you fill the carb bowl with gas thats enough for it to run and have the pump get it the gas pumped up to the carb.

i would check spark next if you have gas up in the carb.. take off points cover and with ignition on use a long screwdriver to lever points open. lever on the steel arm of the points assembly and not the contact area. should be a nice blue spark jump the gap. if the point gap is already open turn the engine by hand slowly until it closes. then check it. if no spark then test for voltage at the coil +.

lets see where the gas situation is first though..........

[sorekiwi 761]

Spark first, because its easiest and the least messy.

Then fuel, like Martin said, sometimes you have to bleed the air out of the lines to the pump before it'll start to fill the carb.

You said it cranks so your solenoid is good, air filter and muffler shouldnt be an issue.

Let us know what you find.

[whc160 74]

I don't know if it will help, but I set my points at .018 to .020 on my K341's.

[AMC RULES 36,945]

It's something stupid, you'll be up and running in no time DG.

[Dresden Guy 24]

Thanks to all ... ....... will check all the "to-dos" and report back ........ right after sun-up!!

[dadstractor1 5]

do you have spark new points sometimes have coteing on them dadstractor

[Dresden Guy 24]

I don't know if it will help, but I set my points at .018 to .020 on my K341's.

I used the RS post where you do static timing with an ammeter/voltmeter and it tells you the precise time the points "break" - i.e. - the meter goes to "1" (or infinity) when the points first open. The post/article says that sometimes the "S" mark will be in the sight window when gap is approx. .020".

I will re-check it though - thanks for your info.

[rmaynard 14,918]

I used the RS post where you do static timing with an ammeter/voltmeter and it tells you the precise time the points "break" - i.e. - the meter goes to "1" (or infinity) when the points first open. The post/article says that sometimes the "S" mark will be in the sight window when gap is approx. .020". I will re-check it though - thanks for your info.

You have set the points correctly. .020 is just a starting point. Once statically timed correctly, the points gap may no longer be .020. When viewing through the sight hole, there is a line under the S. That line should be aligned with the line on the bearing plate.

However, even with the timing slightly off, you should still get the engine to fire. Be sure that the condenser is connected to the points side of the coil (-).

My guess is that you have an air lock and you are not getting gas to the cylinder. Have you tried spaying a little starter fluid into the carburetor?

[Dresden Guy 24]

Voila!! I did what Mike (Sorekiwi) suggested first: check the spark; it had spark, so I thought - spark, OK, then it needs GAS. So, I took the gas line off the carb side of the fuel pump and gas poured out and apparently had been airlocked. I re-attached the fuel line to the carb. I climbed aboard, and the engine took right off and runs awesome smooth and strong - BOO-YAH!! I have my C160 back, now to start on the tiller and then the C-160 hydro (needs head gasket for starters), and then my B-80, and then the 520-H.

Thanks to all for the great tips and advice - it worked and I'm a happy guy.

Steve

[can whlvr 991]

good news,nice when its a minor thing