Camper cover building construction thread

[ebinmaine 80,693]

In October of 2025 we bought ourselves a new camper. Smallest least expensive model we could get and yet still more than we needed in features. 

We had it tarp covered last winter and always intended to build a hard sided structure. Both Trina and I are firm believers that campers (and many other things) should be protected from the sun and precipitation as often as possible. 

 

After waiting patiently for about 10 months to get an excavator here for site prep, we're finally ready to get our part of the building process going.  

 

The camper living space box is approximately 13' long by 8' wide. 

Add the hitch and we need a 16' minimum storage length.  

 

After a fair bit of reading and searching we decided on this metal framed unit for the beginning of the structure.  

At 14' x 20' this will be more than large enough for the camper trailer and several extras. Other pieces of equipment and tools will also be stored here.  

 

 

 

 

Once the above pictured structure is built we'll add the rest of the metal to fully enclose it. There will be large doors both front and rear. 

 

 

Here's a few pics showing the proposed location of the new camper cover building.

This would allow us to drive a tractor out the back side of the building because it's about 8' from the drop off by the trees. 

It would also allow us to drive a tractor along the right side of the building and be able to use the ramp our excavator operator left for us.

That ramp is to the right of the 3 trees at pic center, and curls around to the left and behind them.  

 

This pic shows proximity to the house. 

 

Better zoom. 

 

The openings of the ends are 14.3' according to the online pics.  20 foot front to rear. 14.8' to top middle peak. 

 

The blue flags are for the Code Enforcement Officer to see so he knows we actually measured. Not guessed. 

75 feet is the minimum amount of setback. We'll have about 79' to the angled support leg closest to the road. 

 

 

Today I ordered a set of 16 mobile home anchors. These are USA 🇺🇸 MADE.

30" depth with a 4" round fan width. 

By the chart I found we should use 12 of them for a 130 MPH wind resistance. If we get a realistic half that it'll be fine.  

 

 

 

 

 

One big thing to figure out will be how to open the front for the full 14' wide and 13 ish foot tall door. 

 

Edited Sunday at 08:30 PM by ebinmaine

[ri702bill 13,045]

Eric - are you planning to do a concrete pad for the frame and trailer to sit on? A very small amount of pitch - 3/16" per foot would suffice for the inner portion...

[ebinmaine 80,693]

10 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Eric - are you planning to do a concrete pad for the frame and trailer to sit on? A very small amount of pitch - 3/16" per foot would suffice for the inner portion...

 

 

At a later date it's possible. Not in the initial build. 

There is plenty of drainage for water runoff and melting snow in the current base of rocks/sand/gravel.  

 

It would be great to have the stability of a concrete area once the new aggregate is settled. 

 

 

[8ntruck 9,296]

What are you going to run the anchors into? The new fill? 

[ebinmaine 80,693]

14 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

What are you going to run the anchors into? The new fill? 

 

Yes. No other option.  

We really don't have serious issues with wind damage. 

(Knock on wood)

 

After reading multiple online posts I believe we should not have a heavy duty post attachment point that goes below the standard frost line. Our frost line is between 36" and 48".

It seems the mobility of the frost creates a break point. With that in mind I decided to go with the 30" depth anchors. 

[8ntruck 9,296]

 Hopefully, the auger pitch will find its way between the stones.

[ebinmaine 80,693]

1 minute ago, 8ntruck said:

 Hopefully, the auger pitch will find its way between the stones.

 

On one side it'll be fine. There's several feet of new fill on the left/downhill side. 

 

On the upward/right side.... we shall see.  

[Beap52 2,497]

I am in total agreement with you two on keeping a roof over stuff.  If it's got wheels and tires, I want it under cover. 

 

When our kids had a carport installed.  I laid 2x6 treated wood under the runners.  I felt this kept the metal runner off the gravel and hopefully last longer.  Our camper's carport is bolted down to the cement pad.  I park the camper on rubber mats.  I hope this is better on the tires than parking on cement for months on end.

 

Great project you've got going on. 

[ebinmaine 80,693]

9 hours ago, Beap52 said:

I laid 2x6 treated wood under the runners.  I felt this kept the metal runner off the gravel and hopefully last longer

 

 

I might do this specifically under the contact points. I'm wondering if it would help keep the metal legs from digging into the ground some.

[ML3 2,506]

When I was shopping for sheds to store the tractors I considered a metal building. Plan was to install it on a gravel pad & use pressure treated lumber (4x4s) as the perimeter then shed supports would attach to the wood. Hurricane auger type attachment points would be inside the wood perimeter. The salesman  (Amish & very knowledgeable) absolutely advised me against it. He stated the copper & other metals used to treat the lumber will have corrosive effects on the metal of the shed. In fact, even voiding the warranty.  

 

Ultimately,  I ended up with a traditional 12x16 w/10' lean to along the 16' side. The pic is almost a year old.  Now its landscaped around & stone spread under lean to.

 

 

[ebinmaine 80,693]

8 minutes ago, ML3 said:

The salesman  (Amish & very knowledgeable) absolutely advised me against it. He stated the copper & other metals used to treat the lumber will have corrosive effects on the metal of the shed.

 

This is technically correct. 

It is however, easily avoided.

 

1.  Install a layer of ice & water shield between the metal studs and the wood base.

2. Ensure good breathing and good draining.

 

This building will most likely outlast me...

 

We went with this particular kit specifically because of the height. If this was constructed of wood, it would have been several times the price.

 

 

[cleat 9,333]

On 10/4/2026 at 8:26 PM, Beap52 said:

I am in total agreement with you two on keeping a roof over stuff.  If it's got wheels and tires, I want it under cover. 

 

When our kids had a carport installed.  I laid 2x6 treated wood under the runners.  I felt this kept the metal runner off the gravel and hopefully last longer.  Our camper's carport is bolted down to the cement pad.  I park the camper on rubber mats.  I hope this is better on the tires than parking on cement for months on end.

 

Great project you've got going on. 

 

My 20x30 tent garage is sitting on two layers of pressure treated 2x6 with the upper layer notched for the tension straps. I did this to keep the steel frame off the ground and to gain the 3" of extra height I wanted for my tractor with cab to pass in easier.

It has been 12 years now and the wood & metal are getting along just fine with no rot or corrosion.

+

 

[kwalshy 265]

Eric, Who did you purchase your car/camper port from?   Thanks.

[lynnmor 9,040]

Some people use railroad ties for a base when installing metal buildings.  If you have a good source they should outlast the new generation of treated lumber.

[rjg854 13,354]

2 hours ago, cleat said:

My 20x30 tent garage

Is that a Cover-All product?

[cleat 9,333]

27 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

Is that a Cover-All product?

It is a Cover Tech.

I had it made and shipped from New Brunswick. 

Frame is still perfect but it will need a new cover in the next year or two.

 

[rjg854 13,354]

6 minutes ago, cleat said:

It is a Cover Tech.

We used to erect Cover-All buildings for the company and many of the things I was looking at looked familiar to the way they were put together so that was the reason for my inquirery.  I didn't think they had products that small.

[ebinmaine 80,693]

4 hours ago, kwalshy said:

Eric, Who did you purchase your car/camper port from?   Thanks.

 

Jungle site. I'll  PM you the link.  

 

 

3 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Some people use railroad ties for a base when installing metal buildings.  If you have a good source they should outlast the new generation of treated lumber.

 

Good idea. Thanks for that. I'll see what we have available locally.  

 

 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,204]

On 10/4/2026 at 10:30 PM, ebinmaine said:

One big thing to figure out will be how to open the front for the full 14' wide and 13 ish foot tall door. 

 

Meaning the front of the shed is not that big once it's installed?

Are you wanting to go with swing-open, sliding or maybe even roll-up doors?

 

If going swing open I think a bolt-on solution would be best. Make a frame out of zinc coated square tubing and rivet or bolt everything together. Then clad the metal frame with same material as used on the sides of the building. Should give a nice and sturdy but lightweight door. Hinges can be simple barndoor style hinges and can be bolted to the structure and doors. With some planning ahead you can probably get them to swing open 180° if not 210° to get them out of the way of everything. 

 

On the part of storing the camper on the tires. Investing in a few cheap axle stands might save the expensive rubbers from getting a flat spot.

 

[ebinmaine 80,693]

1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

Meaning the front of the shed is not that big once it's installed?

Are you wanting to go with swing-open, sliding or maybe even roll-up doors?

 

Swing open is the only option. 

 

Sliding or roll up won't open enough of the end for the camper to get in.  

 

I need the door to open to approximately the blue area.  

 

Possibly considering a bi fold design as well.  

 

 

1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

 

If going swing open I think a bolt-on solution would be best. Make a frame out of zinc coated square tubing and rivet or bolt everything together. Then clad the metal frame with same material as used on the sides of the building. Should give a nice and sturdy but lightweight door.

 

This is pretty much what I'm thinking. Another door frame material to consider is pvc pipe. 

I'm also considering a door made mostly of sheet goods like pvc. Very costly though.  

 

1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

Hinges can be simple barndoor style hinges and can be bolted to the structure and doors.

 

There are also long thin strap style hinges. Those have the advantage of a long swinging piece with multiple points of attachment. 

 

1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

With some planning ahead you can probably get them to swing open 180° if not 210° to get them out of the way of everything. 

 

On the part of storing the camper on the tires. Investing in a few cheap axle stands might save the expensive rubbers from getting a flat spot.

 

 

This camper has its own rear jacks. I also have a set of jacks to add to the front. So it won't be an issue here. 

 

Interesting point...... the tires getting a flat spot... depends who you ask and obviously, how long it stays in the same position.

Opinions on tires are as plentiful and dividing as engine oil, truck brands, religion, or politics. You MUST do this and you CAN’T do that covers the exact same piece of advice in the same paragraph. 

Ahh well.....  

[sjoemie himself 3,204]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

sheet goods like pvc. Very costly though.  

Don't have any experience with that. Is that laminated sheet? My gut says it might be heavier than steel though.

 

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

strap style hinges

Yes, those are the ones. Think we're talking about the same hinges.

About bi-folding doors, I get the space saving aspect however with more moving parts comes more complexity and also more movement means more play and more places to sag or wear over time.

 

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

So it won't be an issue here. 

All good than.

Logically I would say a tire that rotates from time to time is happier than a tire that sits for looong periods, since rotating what's what it's designed for. But I'm no tire expert 

[ebinmaine 80,693]

7 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Don't have any experience with that. Is that laminated sheet? My gut says it might be heavier than steel though.

 

Solid vinyl. 

 

Same as vinyl boards but 4 feet wide. Thickness varies from 1/2" to 1.25".

A 4 ft x 8 ft x 3/4" thick piece is under 100 lbs.  

Each section of 4 foot wide by (12 to 14) foot tall door would be around 200 lbs or less after hardware like hinges and handles. 

 

7 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

strap style hinges

Yes, those are the ones. Think we're talking about the same hinges.

About bi-folding doors, I get the space saving aspect however with more moving parts comes more complexity and also more movement means more play and more places to sag or wear over time.

 

I may be forced to fold the doors, depending on exactly where the building sets. There's a slight incline in front of it.