No spark

[slk 23]

Are the wires that are in my connector that will go to the new switch the right colors? Or do I need to change any of them??

[953 nut 68,768]

 Getting rid of the "MONSTER" ammeter is one thing good that the previous owner did. Wiring in factory colors is not mandatory it just makes trouble shooting a bit easier. You can splice, solder and shrink-wrap new wires to the existing ones or buy some of the Delphi 56 female connectors and replace the ones now in the socket, that is up to you, either way will be electrically safe and functional.

 

[slk 23]

Ok so I am assuming if I have I and S connected to the right places it should start and turn off ???

[953 nut 68,768]

9 hours ago, slk said:

Ok so I am assuming if I have I and S connected to the right places it should start and turn off ???

Have you got the "I" connected through half ot the PTO switch and then on to the ignition coil "+" or just to  the coil for testing?

Is the "S" connected through the other half of the PTO switch, through the pedal switch and then to the small solenoid terminal that had the yellow/orange wire on it?

If you haven't done those steps yet it is no big deal since this is for testing.

With a battery feed to the "B" terminal that sounds like a plan, that should be a heavier 12 or10 gauge wire from the battery side of the solenoid or directly from the battery "+", you should put a 30 amp fuse in that line before you are finished.

 

[slk 23]

As far as I can tell there is no pto switch anywhere that I can see. I also do not see any pedal switch. 

I will get started on things tomorrow. Had some other things to do today. 

I did look at the plan of attack though. I think I got my mind straight. I did notice something my friend had done. He was using the light switch to make contact to the coil and he could use that to turn the tractor off. Just an observation I made today. 

The heavier wire you are talking about between the solenoid to battery is already in place. 

[953 nut 68,768]

14 minutes ago, slk said:

I did notice something my friend had done. He was using the light switch to make contact to the coil and he could use that to turn the tractor off. Just an observation I made today. 

Yes, I suspected that too, that switch can go back to operating the lights.

I don't own a C Series so can't be of much help on the clutch and PTO switch locations if they haven't already been removed by a PO. Perhaps @c-series don can help out.

Don, this is a 1976 model.

Edited 19 hours ago by 953 nut

[slk 23]

I lied. I just looked again there is just the yellow wire going to the B terminal of solenoid. I am starting to get confused again with the B terminal and + side of battery

[slk 23]

Ok my plan tomorrow it to slice into the “I” wire and run that wire straight to the + side of the coil. 

Then splice a wire into the “S” wire and run that straight to the B terminal on the solenoid. 

 

Does that sound like a plan. ??

[953 nut 68,768]

Here is a very basic wiring drawing using the 103990 ignition switch which separates various functions of the electrical system and shows how they all come together at the ignition switch. Colors are not factory colors and it doesn't have the safety switches because they are no all the same from model to model, just the basics.

[slk 23]

Cool. Thanks will let you know a little later today how it went. 

I sure do appreciate all your time with this. 

Steve

[slk 23]

Hey guess what?? I have a working tractor. It cranked right up. I can’t begin to thank you so much for all your time. 

[slk 23]

Everything is great. I got that old momentary switch out also.