No spark

[lynnmor 9,021]

1 hour ago, slk said:

What should I try now?

Report back with the points gap.

[slk 14]

What should the gap be?

[953 nut 68,685]

6 minutes ago, slk said:

What should the gap be?

Points gap should be 0.020" at their highest opening, watch this video.

 

[sqrlgtr 3,759]

[slk 14]

I hope to be able to look at the points tomorrow. It has rained all day here. 

I did go on and order a set of points and condenser today for it just in case. 

And no it is not sitting in the rain but it is under cover but could get wet if the wind blew hard enough. I have a nice garage for it soon. Here is a pic of the points from the test I did. Still have to check the gap. 

Edited yesterday at 09:54 PM by slk
better pic

[Handy Don 17,359]

If you look carefully where the RED arrow is pointing, you’ll notice slots in both the outer and inner points holding brackets.

When you adjust the points, twisting a flat-bladed screwdriver spanning both slots lets you vary the gap precisely until the points are just resting on the feeler gauge. 

I keep the fixing screw (blue arrow) snug but not tight so there is friction as I make the adjustment then I tighten it when the gap is correct

 

[slk 14]

Ok guys I checked the point gap. It was .019 so I reset it to .020. 

Now what should I do?

[953 nut 68,685]

17 minutes ago, slk said:

Ok guys I checked the point gap. It was .019 so I reset it to .020. 

Now what should I do?

For engine testing purposes you can attach the jumper from the battery + to the coil + and you should have spark at the plug, if the fuel system is functional you should have a running engine at this point.

[slk 14]

I did the jumper test the other day and no spark at the plug. 

[slk 14]

Ok guys new good update. I got it started. I did have to use the jumper from + battery to + side of coil. That momentary toggle switch to start it must not be going to the coil. And there is no way to shut off the engine with it either so I had to reconnect the ground to the battery. 

Solved one problem thanks to everyone here. Now I have to figure out an ignition switch. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,477]

On 9/17/2026 at 4:53 PM, slk said:

I just did a little test with my meter. I put the positive probe on the + side of the coil and negative to a ground on the motor and flipped the toggle /ignition switch and I am getting 13v to that side of the coil. 

Now try it on the coil (-) side with 13 volts on the (+) side. First remove the spark plug so the engine is easier to turn over. You should be able to turn the flywheel screen clockwise to do that and see if the points are doing their job.

When the points are open you should see battery voltage. When the points are closed you should have 0 volts. This cycle should happen once for every two turns of the flywheel.

If you do not have 13 volts on the (-) side with the points open the ignition coil is bad.

If it does not go to 0 volts the points are not connecting to ground when they are closed. Often the contacts just need to be cleaned with a nail file or such.

Let us know what you find.

 

You beat me to it. A momentary switch would need to be held on to supply power.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,477]

Here is the switch you need. Click on the fuzzy picture to see a connector that is available for this switch if you do not have the original. If you have the original the wires can be removed from the connector if you want to check them or clean them.

Removing the terminals from the connector is explained in this link. Again click on the picture in the link.

 

[slk 14]

Ok guys I have a new starter switch ordered. Hard to beat $11 bucks through Amazon free delivery. 

I will have to figure out where the previous owner tapped into things with that momentary toggle switch. Maybe I can just cut them and tape them off or try to follow them back to where ever he added them. 

[rmaynard 17,547]

Make sure you get the right switch. There are many switches, all looking the same, but with different functions for each wire. The correct part number is 103990

[slk 14]

That is the number I ordered. 

[slk 14]

Ok this is what I am looking at. The connector seams to have all the wires still connected I have no idea yet where he tapped into to get power to turn the tractor over  We know we did not have 12 v to the coil  The jumper is what made it start  I took a pic of 2 loose black wires that were cut  What they were for I have no idea  I guess when the new switch comes in I could just connect it and see if it starts  If not he had to have taken something loose  I am just grasping at straws right now Maybe someone can recognize something wrong  or hopefully right  

[953 nut 68,685]

Black wires in Wheel Horse wiring harnesses are grounds. The wiring shown in this colored wiring diagram that @gwest_ca provided is from the back of your ignition switch socket. follow one wire at a time and see what goes where. these diagrams are for a 1984, before changing anything lets check your model number to be sure I'm using the correct diagram.

[slk 14]

C120

61-12K802-13542

6063

I believe mine is a 1976

Edited 33 minutes ago by slk
added info