SylvanLakeWH 32,215 #26 Posted Thursday at 11:15 PM (edited) 19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Is the top of the throttle shaft reasonably tight in the bore? Put that in English... do you mean to the governor? Or...? i ain't a carbermanator expert like u... Edited Thursday at 11:16 PM by SylvanLakeWH 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,426 #27 Posted Thursday at 11:23 PM 4 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: carbermanator At the top of the crabulator - where the twisty thingy gozintah. Make sure: A. The turning motion is free with no "catches" or rough spots. B. That it doesn't wiggle around sideways too much. A little is OK. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,426 #28 Posted Thursday at 11:26 PM Here's a similar carb for the explanation. 2 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 32,215 #29 Posted Thursday at 11:36 PM Gotcha... actually it's pretty good... I'm thinking it's most likely just dirty... I'm noting improvements as I run it, so I'm thinking it's just a matter of time before I get to good... everything on this has been pretty dirty so far... so I'm just keeping up with cleaning as I go and we'll see... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,661 #30 Posted 13 hours ago (edited) A quick check for the upper throttle shaft play is to put a drop of oil on the depression around the shaft (right where @ebinmaine is pointing) while the engine is running. If the surging goes away and then returns when the oil is gone then air in-leakage around the shaft is your problem. The little brass washers from the hardware store could do the trick. Edited 13 hours ago by 953 nut 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,426 #31 Posted 13 hours ago 14 minutes ago, 953 nut said: brass washers from the hardware store could do the trick Unfortunately most of the small block carbs I've seen don't have that provision. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 17,358 #32 Posted 12 hours ago (edited) 24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Unfortunately most of the small block carbs I've seen don't have that provision. If I happened onto a #22 that was badly worn, I’d be temped to experiment with other ways to revive it--perhaps drill out and insert bushing(s) at the upper and lower pivots? This is not uncommon in older automotive carbs. Edited 12 hours ago by Handy Don 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,661 #33 Posted 11 hours ago 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Unfortunately most of the small block carbs I've seen don't have that provision. I was just referring to the upper throttle shaft play. 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: If I happened onto a #22 that was badly worn, I’d be temped to experiment with other ways to revive it--perhaps drill out and insert bushing(s) at the upper and lower pivots? This is not uncommon in older automotive carbs. A flanged bushing could be filed to conform to the elongated lower pivot point, or as you have suggested drill top and bottom to ensure proper alignment and insert bushings top and bottom 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 32,215 #34 Posted 3 hours ago Today's progress: C clips for the front tachomatic latch bar thingy (there were none...) then converted it to a front 2" hitch. Can be easily converted back for mowing - remove 4 bolts and put knob back on... can use for trailer maneuvering, weight, winch for plow etc... older I get more I like looking straight ahead at what I'm hitched to... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
