sqrlgtr 3,737 #76 Posted Thursday at 09:52 PM 1 hour ago, cleat said: Tires masked ready for wheels to be painted. I Have yet to try the ol playing card trick. Probably just me but anytime I haven't taped up the tires with masking tape a masking paper Ive always got paint on the tires somehow. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 3,056 #77 Posted Thursday at 10:15 PM @cleat what color did you use for the rims? The 312 and 308 are due for a refresh as the 308’s are too bright and the 312’s are chipping off so I thought I’d fix that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #78 Posted Thursday at 11:31 PM 1 hour ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: @cleat what color did you use for the rims? The 312 and 308 are due for a refresh as the 308’s are too bright and the 312’s are chipping off so I thought I’d fix that. I have not painted them yet. Hopefully tomorrow as it was very windy today. I am starting with grey primer then silver aluminum paint as I have a few cans of that here. I like a bright silver wheel on this generation. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #79 Posted Thursday at 11:36 PM 1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said: I Have yet to try the ol playing card trick. Probably just me but anytime I haven't taped up the tires with masking tape a masking paper Ive always got paint on the tires somehow. I did the combination or cards and tape for the back wheels so I feel fairly safe there but this will be the first time just using cards for the front. Fingers crossed I don't get paint where I don't want it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,400 #80 Posted Thursday at 11:36 PM 1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said: I Have yet to try the ol playing card trick. Probably just me but anytime I haven't taped up the tires with masking tape a masking paper Ive always got paint on the tires somehow. That's why Trina - aka The Paint Department - does all our work. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 32,185 #81 Posted Friday at 12:48 AM 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: That's why Trina - aka The ENTIRE Department - does all our work. Fixed it for ya... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #82 Posted Friday at 03:19 PM Wheels ready to be primed. Wheels primed. Wheels painted with silver aluminum paint. Hoodstand ready to be primed. Hoodstand primed. Hoodstand painted. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 2,461 #83 Posted Friday at 04:25 PM how did you clean the hoodstand to clean bare metal? - - looks amazing ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #84 Posted Friday at 04:31 PM 4 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said: how did you clean the hoodstand to clean bare metal? - - looks amazing ! Wire wheel in an angle grinder and a random orbit sander with 320 grit sandpaper on it. The paint was poorly applied by wheel horse so it came off fairly easily. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #85 Posted Friday at 07:15 PM Masking removed and tires aired to 12 PSI. 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #86 Posted yesterday at 12:50 PM Cylinder head removed. Cylinder head bead blasted. Head bolts as removed. Head bolts bead blasted. Head bolts ready for paint. Head bolt washers as removed. These are not cleaned up as I have new hardened washers to install. Engine with head removed. There is very little carbon buildup or obvious wear. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #87 Posted yesterday at 02:52 PM Head bolts painted. Engine lifting strap painted. Valve cover assembly removed. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,400 #88 Posted 17 hours ago 7 hours ago, cleat said: Head bolts Just curious to know if you have a head bolt usage cut off. Given that ALL bolts will stretch (some more than others on purpose) I replace them if there's any slight signs of wear or previous removal and installation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #89 Posted 13 hours ago 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Just curious to know if you have a head bolt usage cut off. Given that ALL bolts will stretch (some more than others on purpose) I replace them if there's any slight signs of wear or previous removal and installation. In a high compression engine with oil and coolant passages I might be more concerned but in this 14HP low compression engine that I don't think has been apart before I think these bolts will do just fine. However, if they looked or felt suspicious I would replace them. I think they are grade 8 or grade 5 it's hard to tell with these for some reason, regular 3/8" bolts. Before I retired I was a mechanic at a chemical plant and when it was taken apart for the yearly shutdown maintenance all but the largest bolts and studs (over 2" diameter) were replaced even if they still looked good. The large ones were thoroughly cleaned then checked by an engineer and had NDT checks done to check for cracks, stretching, corrosion etc. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,247 #90 Posted 2 hours ago (edited) Valves removed. Valves wire brushed and cleaned up with a scotch brite pad. Engine cleaned up. Top of piston has some damage from what I assume was a foreign object at some time in it's life as the head also has matching marks. I don't think it will cause any issue and I will likely do more damage trying to repair so I will likely just leave it as is. Valve lapping compounds used mainly because I have it here. Valve lapping compound applied to valve. Valve inserted and lapping tool applied. Valves were both lapped in using the three compounds in order of medium fine to very fine. Valves after lapping. Valve seats after lapping. Valve stems got a thin coat of grease then valves were installed and keepers held in position with grease and valves fully installed. Intake valve clearance checked to be 0.008 to 0.010 using this step feeler gauge. The thinner part slid in easily but the 0.010 part was a tight push so intake valve clearance was perfect. Exhaust valve clearance checked to be 0.017 to 0.019 using this step feeler gauge. The thinner part slid in easily but the 0.019 part was a tight push so exhaust valve clearance was perfect. Edited 2 hours ago by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites