Best process to restore wheels?

[Natejc_98 20]

I’m looking for the recommended process to restore old wheels from grinding to sanding to painting. Also what tools are preferred in the process?

[AlexR 3,055]

I always just use a cordless drill with wire brushes to get it down to bare metal, after that clean well with acetone or similar residue free liquid to clean surface for primer. 

Rust-Oleum primer and then after that dries Rust-Oleum cottage white. Can also use a gloss clear if you wish. 

 

Sometimes if there is extra paint or lots of rust I will use a 4 1/2 grinder with a wire brush attachment to more quickly clean it up. 

Edited 19 hours ago by AlexR

[EB-80/8inPA 2,027]

I had a set of rusty old wheels I picked up a while back that need pressed into service now that I need to re-shoe the B-80.  Decided to prep, paint, mount them, and then simply swap out the old ones. Although I do have a wire brush attachment that fits the weed wacker (and it does do some really mean grinding work), I opted to get the set of four sandblasted locally for $40 and forego the mess.  I’ll use my lazy susan painting thingy to spin and spray them (once the humidity drops).

Many here swear by inserting playing cards around the rim after mounting the tires and before a final spray to leave a nice clean finish unmarred by tools.  I will be trying that or some similar masking technique.

I hope to need nothing other than a set of tire spoons to mount the rims and will install tubes from the get go.  Will post pics once done (could be a while but I do anticipate finishing up before @ebinmaine completes his Colossus project).

For paint color, all I can say is:

Good luck and have fun!

Edited 19 hours ago by EB-80/8inPA

[Ed Kennell 46,454]

1 hour ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

Many here swear by inserting playing cards around the rim

          The playng cards work for me.

[ebinmaine 79,483]

We've tried several methods. 

Hand sanding starting with 80 grit works well to break out the really rough stuff. 

After that it's your wire brush of choice or sand flap wheels. 

 

Definitely recommend the acetone just before painting. That too removes some rust.  

Color here is Rust-Oleum 2X Cottage White.  

 

[ri702bill 12,380]

For any really really rusted surfaces - that are thick enough to withstand the process - I highly recommend using a needle scaler. Works great on WH rims and the outer side of truck brake drums. A bonus - it leaves a mildly rough clean surface that cleans up with acetone and provides great adhesion for the primer. Mount the tire after prep but before any painting. Yes, the plastic coated playing cards work great.

 

[953 nut 67,191]

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

any really really rusted surfaces - that are thick enough to withstand the process - I highly recommend using a needle scaler. Works great on WH rims

A good coat of self etching primer followed by a couple of coats of the color of your choice with ample dry time should be applied prior to mounting the tire, then all is needed will be a touch up.

[squonk 47,238]

Nothing beats sand/bead blasting providing you're not the guy doin it! 

[Lee1977 7,672]

How badley rusted and what model tractor? 

 

[EB-80/8inPA 2,027]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Nothing beats sand/bead blasting providing you're not the guy doin it! 

There was a guy doing some blasting when I picked up my finished wheels.  Between the fans and the blasting was that operation ever loud!  I think it was $40 well spent.

[EB-80/8inPA 2,027]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Definitely recommend the acetone just before painting.

I assume you use some sort of protective gloves - which do you use?  They all seem to start dissolving prematurely for me.

[sqrlgtr 3,153]

I always tape mine up, after sanding, blasting or what ever i had to do tyo get them in good enough shape to prime and paint.

Edited 7 hours ago by sqrlgtr

[oliver2-44 11,604]

1 hour ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

There was a guy doing some blasting when I picked up my finished wheels.  Between the fans and the blasting was that operation ever loud!  I think it was $40 well spent.

That was a steal of a deal 

[Handy Don 16,900]

3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

ample dry time should be applied prior to mounting the tire

This is my strategy. 

 

13 hours ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

hope to need nothing other than a set of tire spoons to mount the rims and will install tubes from the get go.

My recent experience with new Firestone 6-12s, which have incredibly stiff sidewalls, ultimately defeated me and I took them to a shop for mounting.

 

Then I touched up the paint and had them do the inflation because I couldn’t get the stiff walls to seat solidly, even with a heavy strap compressing the tread. Got them back and lowered the pressure to 15psi and with a short drive, one came unseated again. Soooo. I’ll be leaving the pressure at 20+ until the sidewalls get used to being spread out! With tubes, these problems are moot, but Firestone recommended no tubes.

[Brockport Bill 2,406]

obviously it depends on what is your end goal ??? Do you want rims that look ok nice or wheel rims that are factory beautiful showroom quality - - i have done numerous sets of rims myself - grinder - wire wheel - needle scaler - hand sanding -- etc -- but frankly if you think longer term spreading the expense $ over 10-20 years and want a really sweet finished look then the best decision is professional sand blast -- then do your painting -- one dominant reason is it's pretty challenging to get tools into cracks and joint areas on the rims to clean the rust -- which the sand blasting does so well -- no fuss, no mess, no labor time! 

[ebinmaine 79,483]

2 hours ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

I assume you use some sort of protective gloves - which do you use?  They all seem to start dissolving prematurely for me.

 

Acetone is a chemical that occurs naturally in our bodies. It's not known as a carcinogen at this time and as long as exposure is minimal, sickness is avoided for most people...

Use at your education and risk.  

[oldlineman 1,748]

5 hours ago, squonk said:

Nothing beats sand/bead blasting providing you're not the guy doin it! 

That is my thought always.

[squonk 47,238]

5 hours ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

There was a guy doing some blasting when I picked up my finished wheels.  Between the fans and the blasting was that operation ever loud!  I think it was $40 well spent.

Quite often if you time it right, a big sandblasting place will be in the process of blasting something big with big equipment and they can grab your wheels and have them done in less than a half hour and keep your cost down. 

[Handy Don 16,900]

I had a solid Onan muffler glass bead blasted a couple of years ago. What an excellent surface that left for painting!

[Ed Kennell 46,454]

No question, some type of blasting ( sand, shot, glass, walnut shells, etc.) is the best prep for painting.  It cleans to the bare metal and leaves a roughened surface for the paint to make a better chemical and mechanical bond.     Just be prepared to paint immediately or store in a warm dry place as the blasted surface will rust very quickly.

[Handy Don 16,900]

5 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

blasted surface will rust very quickly.

Yep. I primed within an hour and in the meantime didn’t even handle the muffler with bare hands.

[ebinmaine 79,483]

20 hours ago, Natejc_98 said:

I’m looking for the recommended process to restore old wheels from grinding to sanding to painting. Also what tools are preferred in the process?

 

 

Nate with the several above recommendations for sand blasting...

You'd be welcome to bring your "media of choice" and use the blaster we have here. Small one that was in my father's garage. I've not tried it yet.