Jump to content
Goldnboy

C161 stuck reverse

Recommended Posts

Goldnboy

Picked up a decent C161 auto yesterday at a local WH show.. any ideas why the motion control will stick in reverse and only way to disengage is to turn off the engine?

It does has a hack wiring job that I will redo from scratch once this is resolved. 

20260517_092942.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DLF
Posted (edited)

My 520 would hang up in reverse when i got it, does you C-161 have a Eaton hydro. Found a notch worn in the cam and a worn cam plate that caused mine to hang up. I replace both on the 520-H.

Only way to get mine out when hung up was hit the brake

Lee1977

Edited by DLF

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
41 minutes ago, Goldnboy said:

Picked up a decent C161 auto yesterday at a local WH show.. any ideas why the motion control will stick in reverse and only way to disengage is to turn off the engine?

It does has a hack wiring job that I will redo from scratch once this is resolved. 

K&B has the parts you need and when you figure out what wiring problems you have let us know, we can help.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Goldnboy

I have the sunstrand auto with a Kohler engine i downloaded the SM and look forward to the neutral adjustment..i have done several Eaton 1100 transmissions

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
27 minutes ago, Goldnboy said:

sunstrand auto

:handgestures-thumbupright:              You probably need a new plastic cam plate to cure the problem.

1926693402_sundstrandslide.jpg.8ba09f417d58e70bb1a724c0424a472d.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Goldnboy

So I got the new cam plate but not sure what is left to do to remove it to install new one.

20260522_104745.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk
7 hours ago, Goldnboy said:

So I got the new cam plate but not sure what is left to do to remove it to install new one.

20260522_104745.jpg

Get a couple of long 3/8" bolts. Take out the upper 2 bolts that hold the trans to the frame and install the long bolts. Take out the remaining 2 original bolts out of the trans and roll the trans back. Replace cam and reinstall trans bolts. May have to unhook the parking brake lever spring. 

Edited by squonk
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 4
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
1 hour ago, squonk said:

roll the trans back.

Counterintuitive, for sure, but the amount of things to loosen/remove in the other direction is much larger!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Half hour job.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
14 hours ago, squonk said:

Half hour job.

If all of the seat, fender, and tank support fasteners cooperate and you don't have a deck or snow plow frame to contend with..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk
12 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

If all of the seat, fender, and tank support fasteners cooperate and you don't have a deck or snow plow frame to contend with..

Seat and fender should be able to stay on. Maybe a fuel line and tail light wires if equipped will have to be unhooked.

 

I replaced the control shaft seal in my 875 this way . I was surprised how easy it was to get at everything. The cam is a lot less work than the seal. Even a deck should be able to stay on but would be in the way of a jack to hold the frame up. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Goldnboy

@squonk was good on his method worked well but I needed to remove right foot rest and belt guard to remove drive belt. The eccentric wouldn't move but I worked it  loose with vise grips. It was rough and had burs along with the ball.  I cleaned up with wire wheel mill file and sanded very smooth. I put everything together with new plastic cam and motion control worked really good and stayed in neutral.

 

Unfortunately in the process I noticed I have cracked frame mounts....

Screenshot_20260526_150058_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20260526_150114_Gallery.jpg

20260526_142841.jpg

Edited by Goldnboy
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk
20 minutes ago, Goldnboy said:

@squonk was good on his method worked well but I needed to remove right foot rest and belt guard to remove drive belt. The eccentric wouldn't move but I worked it  loose with vise grips. It was rough and had burns along with the ball.  I cleaned up with wire wheel mills file and sanded very smooth. I put everything together with new plastic cam and motion control worked really good and stayed in neutral.

 

Unfortunately in the process I noticed I have cracked frame mounts....

 

Good thing you did it that way. Otherwise you wouldn't have discovered it until maybe it was too late! I had a leak at the shaft that cam operates and was putting it off until I felt the seat moving around whilst mowing. Discovered this! 

 

20250703_150625.jpg.20191aeeec40e2f39228064b2d00a544.jpg

  • Excellent 1
  • Sad 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

Catch a problem early any way you can. One non- running parts tractor I bought had been partly disassembled by a previous own and then haphazardly bolted together with about half the bolts missing and nothing tight. I wanted to see if the engine and transaxle were worth anything. I put in a battery, cables, and a temporary gas tank, started it up and drove it around the yard until the front axle fell off.   :scared-eek:       Seems the PO hadn't put the bolt that retains the pivot pin back in.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...