jhillbergen 1 #1 Posted 7 hours ago My lift cable broke today at the end that threads into the trunion. The problem is that when it broke the cable recoiled (or something) and the remaining threaded portion got lodged into the raceway conduit in the curved portion. I've pushed and pulled but the cable won't budge. Does anyone know if there is a way to pull out the conduit for the lift cable without removing the transmission? Have attached a few pics Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,861 #2 Posted 6 hours ago (edited) Could you make a flexible punch by threading a hand full of small nuts on a piece of wire and use that to drive out the obstruction? Did you clamp on the cable with a vise grip and use a flat pry bar to pull on the vise grip? Edited 6 hours ago by Ed Kennell 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 65,503 #3 Posted 6 hours ago Probably worth a call to Lowell to replace the conduit and cable. Gotta get a new cable anyway. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-lift-cable-tube-108144-lift-cable-hydro-transmission/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,350 #4 Posted 6 hours ago (edited) I can see why you’d like to have the tube out to work on it. The tube is held in place by: 1. The clamp 2. The friction fit where it wedges into a stepped-diameter hole in the forward end of the transaxle housing (The stepped diameter makes it very difficult to use a punch to catch the edge of the tube. It is possible, though, and I’ve done it.) My first attempt would be to get some penetrant involved initially (both inside and outside the tube) and then a heavier lubricant inside. Following @Ed Kennell's thoughts, I’d look to using a tightly-coiled spring or other flexible but incompressible tool fed from the forward end. The tools used to prevent kinking when bending tubing come to mind. If you can get a firm grip on the tube without crushing it (maybe with a smooth end of a drill bit that fills the inner diameter and then vise-grips?), wriggling with the penetrant and pulling rearward will eventually free it. Edited 6 hours ago by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,953 #5 Posted 5 hours ago All good suggestions... If all else fails, we may have to blast!!.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jhillbergen 1 #6 Posted 5 hours ago Thanks for the suggestions. I've decided to call it a day, and will give it another try tomorrow 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,861 #7 Posted 5 hours ago 25 minutes ago, ri702bill said: If all else fails, we may have to blast!!.... Hmmm A fuse, 4F powder and seal the end with JB Weld. There she blows. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,350 #8 Posted 5 hours ago 1 minute ago, jhillbergen said: Thanks for the suggestions. I've decided to call it a day, and will give it another try tomorrow Viking Valhalla doesn’t close until 9:30!? (Former LeRoyan and ND graduate here) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 31,182 #9 Posted 4 hours ago 3 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Hmmm A fuse, 4F powder and seal the end with JB Weld. There she blows. In accordance with Redsquare rules, gonna need pictures...!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 11,861 #10 Posted 4 hours ago I could be wrong, but I think the bolt hole in the picture goes right through into the transmission? If so it’s imperative that you do not get any dirt, grim or anything in that hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DLF 28 #11 Posted 3 hours ago (edited) I replace the tube on my 520-H when I got it. Cables cost too much to try and used a rusted tube, Lee1977 Edited 3 hours ago by DLF Share this post Link to post Share on other sites