Appreciate any guidance, or feedback: 70's B-80?

[Buschlight13 9]

18 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Now drain the transmission and see if its still full of gear oil, oil and water, or pure rusty water.

if it had a lot of gear oil oil or at least oily water soup you might align the forks and put the shifter back in to verify how the transmission works.

Then decide if you do a diesel flush or a full rebuild.

If it's all water and rust, rebuild it.

PS put a new rubber boot on the shifter whenever you permanently reinstall it. That's where they get water in these transmissions

Won't have much time to work on it till the weekend, but I did follow the guide, and get the shifter back in place with the screw.  However it doesn't move.  Gonna watch some of the stuff and plan to drain and clean it. These guides make it seem very doable.

 

[Buschlight13 9]

Found a little time to get the frame further disassembled. Gonna drain it and decide what I need to do but really leaning towards a total rebuild cause it looks like a good time. 

 

 

[kpinnc 17,948]

17 minutes ago, Buschlight13 said:

like a good time. 

 

I can tell you already that your hitch pin is definitely gonna provide a good time. Soak/ heat, soak/ heat, repeat...  Don't hit it very hard either. 

[702854boy 651]

 Same with the hubs

Another thing to look out for when you take the tranny off is the mounting plate for it, make sure it's not all cracked and everything

Edited April 15 by 702854boy

[Buschlight13 9]

14 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

I can tell you already that your hitch pin is definitely gonna provide a good time. Soak/ heat, soak/ heat, repeat...  Don't hit it very hard either. 

 

Found a few threads on this lol. I'm betting you're right.

[Handy Don 16,326]

21 hours ago, Buschlight13 said:

leaning towards a total rebuild

Leaving the bolts out of the top of the transaxle and an uncovered shifter hole during messy disassembly can easily let crud inside. Outcome depends on the crud, but on any of the hydros, crud can cause serious damage.

[kpinnc 17,948]

11 hours ago, Buschlight13 said:

Found a few threads on this lol. I'm betting you're right.

 

They will definitely come out with some patience. Just be careful not to get annoyed and try to beat it out. The cast iron case will break. Ask me how I know... 

[Handy Don 16,326]

28 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

be careful not to get annoyed and try to beat it out

Yep. Anytime you hit steel hard there is deformation. If it enlarges the diameter of the pin, you’ve just defeated your purpose. 

[kpinnc 17,948]

18 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Yep. Anytime you hit steel hard there is deformation. If it enlarges the diameter of the pin, you’ve just defeated your purpose. 

 

Good point. Most of us cut the pin close to the case, and drill a fairly large hole in the end so we can use a punch to push it out. This reduces the deformation. 

[Buschlight13 9]

Unfortunately had responsibilities this weekend, but I did get the wheels and frame disassembled. I'm for sure gonna have to cut this pin off. It's mushroomed on both ends.

 

 

[nyquil junkie 262]

Quote

I was thinking of putting  a 420cc predator on it, and using it to pull a bushhog. 

  

 

Add duals and chains, and a plow you'll have the ultimate trail cutter.

[Handy Don 16,326]

5 hours ago, Buschlight13 said:

Not a lot of pin showing there. Me, I’d grind both ends off (the heat from the grinding will help) and then, as @kpinnc suggested, drill ¼ or ⅝” holes in both ends about an inch deep to take a punch. Of course, plenty of penetrant that you’ve allowed time to work. Then, on alternating ends, a few sharp whacks on the punch with a big hammer. Reapply penetrant. Coffee or a movie. Repeat. 

Once it moves in one direction, touch grind what is now exposed of the pin then go the other way. I find that going back and forth is more productive that “going for broke” in one direction right away.

Edited April 21 by Handy Don

[Buschlight13 9]

It has not budged at all. I'm fairly convinced that the bar is bent. I believe the time has come to grind off the hitch. I've tried heat, I've done plenty of oil, the punch method seems fantastic, but if the whole pin is bent its not gonna get me far.

[702854boy 651]

If need be, just cut the pin with a sawzall in between the hitch and the tranny and that way you'll be able to save the hitch

[Buschlight13 9]

Hitch was saved. More oil applied, let's see if it moves now lol.

[Buschlight13 9]

Alrighty. Smacked it with the 15 lb sledge and it didn't care. The axle hub did. But at a loss at how to get this out lol. 

[Handy Don 16,326]

Sad to see the busted hub. 😢

 

I’m reminded of working on a steering wheel roll pin. Without something supporting the side opposite the hitter, too much energy was being absorbed by the movement of the steering shaft and sheet metal. In your case, by movement of the entire transaxle. You cannot rely on inertia or someone holding it, in this situation. 

I’m assuming you’ve been using a good penetrant (Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Knock ‘er Loose) already. And you’ve given it a good heating (not concentrated in one spot--cast iron doesn’t take kindly to that). And there is no “shrooming” at the end of the pin that should be ground away.

Can you create a brace that has a hole for the pin when it moves and is anchored to something very solid to support the flange? Perhaps even on the floor? That way, the force is completely on the pin and not trying to break off the flange.

I used a 2x4 braced against a nearby masonry wall--no give whatsoever--and the pin yielded almost immediately. 

[Buschlight13 9]

I tried a few different configurations as I'd thought of this and I definitely don't have a vice to hold it. I attempted to mitigate dissipation as best I could.

 

Used a lot of penetrative oil, heated the outside of the cast iron with a torch for awhile a few times, but didn't get too hot. 

 

I'm thinking I just gradually drill bigger and bigger? Guess it can't be stuck if I turn it to dust.

[Handy Don 16,326]

3 minutes ago, Buschlight13 said:

I'm thinking I just gradually drill bigger and bigger? Guess it can't be stuck if I turn it to dust.

Go big or go home?!

 

In theory, I agree with growing the hole.  My issue would be that a handheld drill can wander off the line you intend--especially true when trying to enlarge a hole--especially at the larger sizes. I ruined a perfectly good ½ drill bit when it got stuck and bent sideways trying to enlarge a ⅜” hole. Small steps do not work. 

Can you drill the existing hole deeper?

 

Last thought for today: ONCE I was able to use a gear puller to remove a pin. I cannot remember for sure but I think it was a 3-jaw and the slot hitch was still in place, I used a clamp to make sure the puller jaws stayed on the edges of the slot hitch. Put tension on it and added a half a turn a day and a tap or two with a hammer. It finally popped.